Buying Advice B2920 - Newbie Planned Purchase Help

[Howard92]

B2920 - Newbie Planned Purchase Help

I guess I am in the market for my first tractor. Been lurking on this forum for several months and have learned a lot of things that I had not even considered. Thanks for all the information and contributions you folks add to this forum.

We recently bought some rough mountain land. We plan on building a small hunting camp type cabin on it. We also plan on clearing out 3 or 4 acres of underbrush (small trees <2 and blackberries). The land has several miles of 4x4 roads that I might need to do some very occasional and limited repairs. I also want to use this tractor to mow our yard (about 2 acres). I will also be mowing about 3 or 4 acres of deer plots.

Based on everything I've read and discussions I've had with a couple of dealers, I'm thinking:

B2920
FEL
BH
MMM 72
Post Hole Auger 9
Rotary Cutter 48
Either a Rear Scraper Blade or a Box Blade
Factory Rear Wheel Spacers for Added Stability
Rim Guard
R4 Tires

Some of the roads are a little rough and some of the forest that we will be clearing the underbrush is hilly. I want a small tractor that can easily get down between the trees, but I also want it a stable (non-tippy) as possible.

I've looked at the larger and smaller tractors and we looked at the green tractors. I keep coming back to the 2920.

Any suggestions or criticisms of our current plan are welcome. I know next to nothing about tractors except for what I've read. I'm trying not to make an expensive mistake.

Also, are there any options on the B2920 that I need to add that I will end up needing? I think I have read about adding additional hydraulic QD's to the rear? Anything else?

Thanks for any help,
Howard

 

[94BULLITT]

Sounds like you have everything figured out. I think a box blade makes a good first implement. You can do a lot of work with them. Here is a video on things you can do with a box blade. You may want to get a scraper blade too. They are good for moving snow. Sometimes you can get lucky and find this kind of stuff on craigslist.The hydraulic qd's you are talking about are rear remotes. They come in handy for a hydraulic toplink, which works good with a box blade. My only concern is the 48" rotary cutter. Your probably looking at a 5ft. You want one that is wider than your tires are and I do not think it is cause my bx is 48'' wide. If you get the tractor be safe and always wear your seatbelt and have the ROPS up.

 

[displacedPA]

That sounds like a great setup. I would go with the rear remote just to have them they come in really handy. I do not have the rear remote kit for my B2320 but i would like to have one. I have looked at surpluss center to make my own.
make sure you are always buckelled and take you time at first. Things can get tippsy quick on the hills but the ballest on the tires and wheel spacers will make a world of diffrence. I just filled my B with RV anti freeze and it is amazing.

I would go with the box blade to help out on the forest roads. I still have a light project going on my B something that is nice to have if you ahve to go work in the wee hours of the morning or late at night after a storm.

 

[s219]

Sounds like a good plan. As for wheel spacers, make sure that won't make the B2920 too wide for use in the woods. My 2920 is a good size for tree work in the woods, but is still a tight squeeze sometimes. I guess you can weigh the need for wider footprint against the space requirements.

I personally have not seen a need for a wider footprint with my B2920, but I do not have a backhoe. It seems pretty well planted with filled rear tires.

A 4 foot box blade works well on the B2920. For a rear blade, go with a 5 footer. Agree on the 5 foot rotary cutter.

 

[TripleR]

Sounds good to me, we came close to buying a 2920 but decided the perfect tractor for us was two, so we went with a BX and GL. For your needs the 2920 should do well, the only thing I did not like about it was the quarter inching valve and would have gone with a 2630/3030, but $$$$$$$$$$$$ and we have to draw the line somewhere. Good luck

 

[rswyan]

Sounds like a pretty good plan ....

As others have said - get some rear remotes. I chose to roll my own and sourced a three spool Prince valve from Surplus Center .... there are times when I wish I had gone with four spools. This is likely much cheaper than getting them thru Kubota - but lacks cleanliness of OEM integration.

I'd also get the widest bucket they offer - I went with the 60" "Light Material" bucket on our B2910 (rather than the 54") and have never looked back .... other than to reinforce the top by welding a piece of angle onto it and adding chain hooks and a D-ring. Oh .... and adding a toothbar .... I'd definitely include that in the plan.

On the backhoe, it sounds like you will be using this at two different properties - which I'd guess means trailering the tractor between locations. If that's the case, you may wish to consider foregoing the backhoe ($$$) .... and renting a mini-excavator instead (assuming you have a tow vehicle that can pull one) - they are far faster and much more productive than a backhoe on a CUT .... might depend on the terrain you're operating on tho' ....

The money a 'hoe costs will buy you a lot of rental time .... or a lot of other implements ....

We went with the 72" MMM (drive-over deck) .... looking back, if I had it to do over again I probably would have gone with either a RFM or another machine which was dedicated specifically to mowing (them F-series Kubotas are very nice) .... as I find removing and installing the MMM to a PITA.

I'd also suggest a Quick-Hitch for the 3PT and an SSQA for the loader .... makes changing implements much easier.

 

[Evil the Weasel]

I thought they only made 54" and 60" MMM for the 2920. I wouldn't want the 72" unless I had the world's flattest lawn (which I don't).

 

[Howard92]

Thanks all for the responses and very good information; I need all the help I can get.

I understand what y’all are saying about the 60” vs 48” rotary cutter. I will take another look at the larger one. If I were just cutting open fields, I definitely would go bigger. But mostly what I will use it for is cutting very grown up deep woods; lots of trees, stumps, rocks and very hilly. I managed to trailer out 48” JD lawn mower up there behind my jeep and had some problems getting it thru some of the tight spots. Time is really not an isse; I will only be mowing these places 2 or 3 time each year.

I guess I will try it without the factory 1-1/2” wheel spacers first with the tires filled to see if it stable enough. I had read a few posts where folks had added them and they said they really helped stability. I can always add them later.

Other than tilting a box blade, what would I use the rear remotes for? Seems like some folks really like them, I’m just not sure what I would use them with.

Backhoe – I agree that I will likely never get pay back on the backhoe. But I am fast approaching the age where if I don’t get one now, they won’t let me have it at the nursing home. So, even if it don’t make good sense, I’m definitely getting the backhoe.

I have considered renting a small trackhoe. But, if that thing broke down up there, it would likely take a National Guard Chinook to get it out.

The question I have about the backhoe is will it or the subframe limit other attachments or cause me some other issue that I don’t know about. Most of the time, it would not be on the tractor.....the backhoe that is, I guess the subframe stays on all the time?

I must have been confused over the width of the mmm. Looking at the Kubota web page, looks like 60” is the widest. That appears to be a drive over mower deck, given that, is it still a lot of trouble to install?

Definitely have thought about finish mower vs a MMM for the yard. I have lot of trees to mow around, but we plan on keeping our old JD lawn mower for some of the close in mowing.

Thanks again for all the help; this is really a great forum.
Howard

 

[s219]

In tight spaces, I think the size of the tractor and it's turning radius will be the problem, and I can't see how 48" vs 60" rear mower will matter much. I love my 2920, but it's far from being nimble and will never compete with a dedicated riding mower for maneuverability in tight spaces. Size the rear mower to make sense for the tractor itself, but accept that maybe a compact tractor is not the right tool for all your mowing in the first place.

 

[rswyan]

I must have been confused over the width of the mmm. Looking at the Kubota web page, looks like 60 is the widest. That appears to be a drive over mower deck, given that, is it still a lot of trouble to install?

If it's only 60" wide .... and given that it's a newer model (than our B2910) .... it may be less of an issue ....

I believe the newer units have the mid-PTO offset to one side .... and 12" less width also makes reaching in to hook up the shaft less difficult ....

Here's a way to tell whether it's "a lot of trouble to install": have the dealer let you hook it up by yourself on a similar surface (concrete, asphalt, etc) before you decide .... preferably on a nice hot, humid day .....

I'm tall, in my mid 50's, and in reasonably decent shape .... and I find reaching in from the side to connect the PTO to be a complete PITA ....

(I used to never drive over the deck - I started doing that this last year - makes deck installation somewhat easier than otherwise)

Definitely have thought about finish mower vs a MMM for the yard. I have lot of trees to mow around, but we plan on keeping our old JD lawn mower for some of the close in mowing.

Good idea - we have a small ZTR (older Simplicity with a 46" deck) that we use in a similar manner :thumbsup:

 

[ror105]

Well I can tell you I bought the b2320 with a lot of the items you mentioned and I will agree with some of the other posters comments:

1. It is 88 and humid; taking the MMM off now to put the BH on. I in good shape and I took a break twice now. It is a PITA.

2. Love the tractor; always run out of traction before power, and that is less than the 29.

3. 3 pt comes off to install BH, again on a hot day.

4. Get a wider bucket for the loader. Most of the time run out of room before power.

5. R4 tires in mid eventually load up; again traction issues. But they do not tear up my grass and are a good tire for most dirt and snow.

6. One thing I would not buy again; front hydraulic plow. A lot of $ and used once. I need some big snow this winter to justify to myself spending all that $.

7. I wouldn't pay for the alt upgrade if you don't think you'll need it. I ended up putting aux LED lights on anyhow. Stock dynamo would have been sufficient.

8. Chains are a must. Go with 2 link.

I have not regretted buying this tractor one bit, 9 months old and it works like a champ.

-rob

 

[oldballs]

So far I've found that the MMM on my B2620 is easy to install and remove without doing the drive over thing. Although there hasn't been much mowing going on around here due to the drought, I've attached and detached it twice on concrete without difficulty. Turning the scalp wheels sideways, dropping the drive shaft, a couple "L-pins" and the front link frees it up so as to roll right out sideways. Did I miss something here? Heck, I'm 80 years old and 5'4" and it worked okay for me. Yet there was no backhoe to deal with however. Of course, then one has to have a place to park the MMM. I guess that's the fun of having all this stuff....kinda like a chess game.

 

[ror105]

The pain isnt removing the deck; it's the 3 pt removal afterward and then putting the backhoe on. Probably only 20 minutes or so, but it seems like a long while when you only get an hot or two here and there. Wife and kids take up the rest of my free time.

And it seems like I have done this at least 3 or 4 times a month lately.

 

[ror105]

The pain isnt removing the deck; it's the 3 pt removal afterward and then putting the backhoe on. Probably only 20 minutes or so, but it seems like a long while when you only get an hot or two here and there. Wife and kids take up the rest of my free time.

And it seems like I have done this at least 3 or 4 times a month lately.

Sorry meant to say "an hour or two".

 

[Howard92]

I have a couple of questions about the BH subframe and removing the 3 pt hitch.

Removing the 3 pt hitch - I assume that it is only required to be removed when installing the BH. Is that just removing the two lower arms and the one upper arm? Is that removing pins & clips or nuts & bolts?

BH Subframe – I assume that I will be leaving the BH subframe on the tractor all the time? Does having the subframe on the tractor cause any other problems? Like making it harder to install other implements like a MMM or rotary cutter? Does the subframe greatly reduce ground clearance?

Thank again for all help,
Howard

 

[moriboy]

The subframe always stays in place. The design is pretty good, and there really isn't any clearance issues when using the 3 point. Putting the three point arms on and off does seem to get kind of old sometimes, but it is not difficult by any means. I am in the middle of converting my bh76 to fit my new m7040. It's going to look funny, but having a 3 point backhoe for quick jobs will be nice.

 

[rswyan]

So far I've found that the MMM on my B2620 is easy to install and remove without doing the drive over thing.

I was really concerned about driving over it initially - and avoided doing it for years .... after doing it, I found that there was little reason for concern.

Although there hasn't been much mowing going on around here due to the drought, I've attached and detached it twice on concrete without difficulty. Turning the scalp wheels sideways, dropping the drive shaft, a couple "L-pins" and the front link frees it up so as to roll right out sideways. Did I miss something here? Heck, I'm 80 years old and 5'4" and it worked okay for me.

Try doing it with a 72" deck on old, cracked asphalt .... smooth concrete would be a cakewalk ....

Even so, reaching up to connect the PTO shaft is problematic .... and I have fairly long arms.

 

[ror105]

I agree; I have all the leftover mud on my garage floor that has cracks as well. Seems like i sweep it out often but one stone and the deck stopsI usually use the loader to lift the tractor and then slide the deck underneath.

Ditto on the PTO shaft; last few times the collar wouldn't stay open and then the shaft wouldn't telescope out far enough. It is just uncomfortable to lay on the deck and reach up under there.

But again these are just silly gripes; tractor is a well engineered product that I am very pleased with.

-rob

 

[Howard92]

Since we are planning on keeping our old JD 48" lawn mower for the close in stuff, I have considered just getting a 60" or 72" finish mower instead of the MMM.

Thanks,
Howard

 

[rswyan]

I agree; I have all the leftover mud on my garage floor that has cracks as well. Seems like i sweep it out often but one stone and the deck stops I usually use the loader to lift the tractor and then slide the deck underneath.

If that one stone happens to be where you just stuck your knee while kneeling down it can be a real treat as well ....

Ditto on the PTO shaft; last few times the collar wouldn't stay open and then the shaft wouldn't telescope out far enough. It is just uncomfortable to lay on the deck and reach up under there.

I'll sometimes go up underneath from the rear .... it works, but I'd just prefer to avoid crawling around under the tractor for normal install and removal of attachments .... my head - which I often bang into something - thanks me ....