BX25 Remote Valve Project

[YotaBota]

Thank you for the info on the armrests. Look forward to seeing the finished project. I had mentioned to Harry from BXpanded that this is an excellent add on for the BX's. It'll be nice to see what he comes up with. Everything else has been most excellent!:thumbsup:

 

[CHDinCT]

Been a while but I finally made some progress on my BX25 Valve Project. Ordered and received the detent kit, additional fittings and hoses to hook up my old hydraulic top link and to run the BH off of the new valve. The detent kit was not quite what I thought it would be but should work fine for running anything that needs continuous flow. I had thought it would just add a detent to the existing spring-to-neutral spool, but it ends up removing the spring so you can only lock the lever in either direction. So, it really can't be used for running a double acting cylinder as is. But I do have the old parts to convert it back if I need to. Should take about 5 minutes to change it out.

I did make one mental screw-up (so far :laughing and ordered one too many male QC's and one too few female QC's so I couldn't make the last connection to try running the BH off of the detent valve spool. I think you can see in one of the pic's the two unconnected lines (near each other). I will pick up the missing QC locally this weekend, hopefully.

I did check out the valve as it is now (i.e., BH not hooked up) to check for leaks, etc. I started the tractor and first listened for any loading of the engine with the valve in neutral in case I somehow deadheaded the pressure, but it ran fine at idle. Added some RPM (about 1700-1800), and tried operating the FEL. After a short pause to purge the air I assume, the FEL seemed to work fine, though I didn't do anything to cause the pressure to max out. It did seem to run a little slower than before the valve was spliced in, which would not make much sense if the FEL valve is the first in series, so it could just be my imagination.

As you can see in the third photo, I hooked up my old hydraulic top link to trial it and it worked fine, though noticeably slower in the extend vs retract direction. The valve is rated for 8 GPM, which is about twice what the BX pump delivers to hydraulic attachments, but maybe all the QC's have some impact on the speed?? At some point I will time the FEL up and down with the valve in and out of the system to see if speed is impacted. If it is, that won't be ideal for running the BH off the valve.

For anyone interested, I have about $400 invested in this set up so far with the valve (+ detent kit) not quite half of the cost. The steel for the mount was scrap I had, and I was able to reuse the old top link hoses and male QC's. The grapple thumb should be about another $400 when I add that next year (assuming prices don't jump much). Everything is hooked up with QC's and the valve is mounted with wing nuts on the bracket, so I can put everything back to OEM whenever I need to.

Once I finalize all the hook ups and test out the BH operation via the valve, I will organize the hoses a little better and get some hose protection fabric. So, more to come in a few days, hopefully. Looking forward to adding the grapple thumb by this time next year. :thumbsup:

 

[CHDinCT]

Been a while since I updated this thread. Finished up the project and have been using the remotes to operate the BH leaving the open, second circuit for my eventual FEL thumb. The BH now operates off of the remote circuit with the detent kit (though I can go back to OEM connections by removing the valve and hoses). What I did find is that when the detent is engaged to operate the BH, there is no flow to the FEL. This tells me that the BH powerbeyond loop is prior to the FEL valve in the BX25's hydraulic circuit, otherwise the FEL if first would still have priority. Not a big deal, I just have to disengage the detent to operate the FEL.

So I made a few video's with my i-phone. Hopefully the quality is OK. Not the best camera work but you can get an idea of how things work. I did find one issue that I need to remedy and that's hooking up my hydraulic top link (with the BH off of course). The routing of the tank return line interferes with the top link so I'll need to re-route it necessitating new or added hoses for that part of the valve hook up.

Tractor Videos :: BX25 Remote Valve Project 1 video by CHDinCT - Photobucket

Tractor Videos :: BX25 Remote Valve Project 2 video by CHDinCT - Photobucket

 

[cschulz]

Question. When wanting to dig with BH and you set down the front bucket for stability with some down force. Will the bucket hold the down force when you switch to BH position with valve? I have not put much thought into my set up yet but I do see "T's" in my future. Slick set up mister.

And thanks for the videos. Helps bunchs.:cool2::cool2:




Chris

 

[magicheater]

I made a similar set up for my back hoe but just put the back hoe in series with the power beyond off my remote valve (2 function joystick). I do not lose loader function as a result. When I remove the back hoe everything just plugs in to complete the circuits and all functionality remains for the Joystick and 3PH. It is just a matter of changing where your quick disconnects are to achieve this. T's work well in the "return tank line".

 

[cschulz]

I made a similar set up for my back hoe but just put the back hoe in series with the power beyond off my remote valve (2 function joystick). I do not lose loader function as a result. When I remove the back hoe everything just plugs in to complete the circuits and all functionality remains for the Joystick and 3PH. It is just a matter of changing where your quick disconnects are to achieve this. T's work well in the "return tank line".

Jery, good to hear from you. And thanks for the tip. It sounds simple when other people give directions.

 

[CHDinCT]

Question. When wanting to dig with BH and you set down the front bucket for stability with some down force. Will the bucket hold the down force when you switch to BH position with valve? I have not put much thought into my set up yet but I do see "T's" in my future. Slick set up mister.

Chris

No problem/issues with the FEL loosing pressure or moving/not holding the front up when using the BH.

 

[CHDinCT]

I made a similar set up for my back hoe but just put the back hoe in series with the power beyond off my remote valve (2 function joystick). I do not lose loader function as a result. When I remove the back hoe everything just plugs in to complete the circuits and all functionality remains for the Joystick and 3PH. It is just a matter of changing where your quick disconnects are to achieve this. T's work well in the "return tank line".

Hmm, not a bad idea. Not sure why I didn't think about running it in series, but I'll give that some thought. That set up would leave both circuits open with the backhoe hooked up, though I can't see when I'd need both. How do you hook yours up when the BH is off - did you leave enough hose length to plug in to the tractor side BH connections?

A couple more pic's. I have since added nylon hose protection. Ordered 20' of 1.75" ID nylon hose protection from McMaster Carr. Plenty left over for my eventual grapple lines.

 

[magicheater]

Hmm, not a bad idea. Not sure why I didn't think about running it in series, but I'll give that some thought. That set up would leave both circuits open with the backhoe hooked up, though I can't see when I'd need both. How do you hook yours up when the BH is off - did you leave enough hose length to plug in to the tractor side BH connections?

A couple more pic's. I have since added nylon hose protection. Ordered 20' of 1.75" ID nylon hose protection from McMaster Carr. Plenty left over for my eventual grapple lines.

View attachment 273549 View attachment 273550 View attachment 273551

When the back hoe is off, the power beyond return hose is plugged into the power beyond port on the joystick.When the back hoe is on this hose plugs into the power beyond of the backhoe, the pressure in hose from the back hoe is plugged into the power beyond port on the joystick and the tank return line from the back hoe goes into a quick disconnect T'ed into the Joystick tank line. When I use the back hoe my 3PH arms and hydraulic top link are removed so there is no real need for the joy stick but the option remains if needed. I did have to make sure all the hoses were long enough to facilitate taking off and putting on the back hoe. I'll post some pics later if you like.

 

[Artisan]

"T's work well in the "return tank line"...

Before I read that I had already noted to ask perhaps J_J about this. My
question is; "If you put a Tee into a return line you will pressureize the
other return line sending fluid backwards at the tee yes? Is, or could this, be bad?"
Wouldn't it be wiser to add 2- check valves?

When you need custom U-Bolts go to Pohl Spring Works in WA. 6-8 bux a piece and the
quality is off the chain great. Tall nuts, fine threads and heavy duty washers.

Chris in case of an accident, perhaps roll to the right,
is the posistioning of the valve and bracket going to hurt you?

FYI; If you call Fasse co and ask for Kurt, he will make sure you are taken care
of. You do not have to go to a retailer unless there is one in your area.
I believe in the GrappleOmatic thread I have posted his contact info.

Have you considered re-routing the hoses albeit making them longer,
to move them out from underfoot on the BH? Getting on and off the
hoe is a safety issue w/ me. It is tight and you MUST be sure the
RPM's are at idle or OFF and dipper is on ground for it is so easy to
tag a valve handle w/ your butt or T shirt and make it move getting
on and off. I wish there was a simple lockout for egress and degress.
So I guess my thoughts are do the hoses present a trip hazard?

Thanx for the detailed presentation, I know, it takes a LOT of work.
Thank You.

 

[CORamos]

When the back hoe is off, the power beyond return hose is plugged into the power beyond port on the joystick.When the back hoe is on this hose plugs into the power beyond of the backhoe, the pressure in hose from the back hoe is plugged into the power beyond port on the joystick and the tank return line from the back hoe goes into a quick disconnect T'ed into the Joystick tank line. When I use the back hoe my 3PH arms and hydraulic top link are removed so there is no real need for the joy stick but the option remains if needed. I did have to make sure all the hoses were long enough to facilitate taking off and putting on the back hoe. I'll post some pics later if you like.

I'd be interested in those pics. I still haven't worked out how I will connect my grapple, so I'm looking for ideas.

 

[CORamos]

Hmm, not a bad idea. Not sure why I didn't think about running it in series, but I'll give that some thought. That set up would leave both circuits open with the backhoe hooked up, though I can't see when I'd need both. How do you hook yours up when the BH is off - did you leave enough hose length to plug in to the tractor side BH connections?

A couple more pic's. I have since added nylon hose protection. Ordered 20' of 1.75" ID nylon hose protection from McMaster Carr. Plenty left over for my eventual grapple lines.

View attachment 273549 View attachment 273550 View attachment 273551

Chris,

How are you planning on routing the line to the front for the grapple?

Carlos

 

[CHDinCT]

Chris,

How are you planning on routing the line to the front for the grapple?

Carlos

Well since I don't have the grapple yet, don't really know, but I'm hoping to run lines under the tractor if I can find locations with suitable protection. That is until the hoses get to the FEL stanchion where they'll follow the existing curl cylinder lines presumably. I have had the thought of using quick connects at the back end so that the main run of hoses stay on the tractor, then use short pieces for the final connections to the auxiliary valve at the back. Just some thinking at this point.
pu

 

[CHDinCT]

Chris in case of an accident, perhaps roll to the right,
is the posistioning of the valve and bracket going to hurt you?

Have you considered re-routing the hoses albeit making them longer,
to move them out from underfoot on the BH? Getting on and off the
hoe is a safety issue w/ me. It is tight and you MUST be sure the
RPM's are at idle or OFF and dipper is on ground for it is so easy to
tag a valve handle w/ your butt or T shirt and make it move getting
on and off. I wish there was a simple lockout for egress and degress.
So I guess my thoughts are do the hoses present a trip hazard?

Thanx for the detailed presentation, I know, it takes a LOT of work.
Thank You.

Artisan, I'm only planning on rolling if I do, to the left :laughing: But seriously, if I'm belted in, it shouldn't be a problem, I think. The valve is actually a little behind me though I suppose it's possible I could hit it with something in a roll. Any roll should be slow, unlike a, say, a car at 50 mph, so bodily damage should be minimal if at all.

As far as the hoses getting in the way, it really isn't a problem. I will take some pic's when I can from the backhoe seat so folks can see what it looks like from the operator's perspective. Again, I did add hose protection and used velcro straps to cinch the lines up to the ROPS, etc.

 

[Artisan]

To the left huh? Must be a NASCAR fan...

I use some nice Cable Ties in a puke orange flavor that
are removable that you might like;

CLICK HERE


Or Velcro...CLICK HERE

 

[J_J]

Artisan ,

Dealing with pressure in the return line.

It is possible to generate some pressure in the return lines using extra fittings like tee's. You don't want back pressure on any valve, so it would be a good idea to make the line from the tee a larger size going to the tank.

Someone mentioned about not having good hyd function when using detent. You should have normal function with detent installed, including feather and full cyl action up to the detent position, and in detent, will allow fluid to flow continuously.

Detent options on some spools.

SPOOL ATTACHMENTS
4
2
5
B
1
2
LOCATION
OUTLET
4
RD52
RD53
C
D
F
RD5200
6***
A
3 Position
Spring Center to Neutral
B
3 Position Detent
(No Centering Spring)
C
Friction Detent
(Detented in Neutral Only)
D
Rotary Actuator w/Center Detent (only
available w/Handle 3 and Spool J)
E
Pressure Release Detent
1 Position Detent, Spool "out" Only,
Spring Center to Neutral
F**
Pressure Release Detent
2 Position Detent, Spool "in"
and "out", Spring Center
to Neutral
Spool "C" or "E" Only
G**
4 Position, Spring Center to
Neutral, Detent Spool In for
Float Position
H
Spring Center
Pneumatic Actuator
N
1 Position Detent Spool "out"
Spring Center to Neutral
P
2 Position Detent Spool "in
and out", Spring Center to
Neutral
R
3 Position Spring Center
with Micro-Switch and Boot
(actuates with spool in
or out movement)
S
2 Position Detent "Neutral
and out", No "in" Position

 

[J_J]

Well since I don't have the grapple yet, don't really know, but I'm hoping to run lines under the tractor if I can find locations with suitable protection. That is until the hoses get to the FEL stanchion where they'll follow the existing curl cylinder lines presumably. I have had the thought of using quick connects at the back end so that the main run of hoses stay on the tractor, then use short pieces for the final connections to the auxiliary valve at the back. Just some thinking at this point.
pu

If you really don't need/want to run hoses to the front for grapple, and have some extra money, then I would suggest either a third function valve to operate the grapple connected to the PB OUT of the FEL.

You could also do the diverter thing using the curl circuit and a thumb switch to operate a grapple.

 

[Artisan]

Thank you J_J

 

[CHDinCT]

I don't think I ever circled back on this to show the finished hydraulic top link installation. Got that all set up now and really enjoying the ability to tilt my rear implements at will. Just had to extend and re-rout the tank return line a little to avoid interference with the top link.

Used my box blade and rake a few weeks ago and it made things much easier. Also came in handy when I hooked up my carry all to move some firewood (hat tip to Wrooster and CTF for the carryall idea). Anyway, here's a few pic's of the top link fully extended and retracted. Plans are still to add the grapple thumb to the FEL next Spring.

 

[lp333]

CHDinCT you are to be complimented for starting this excellent thread. My compliments also extend to other members for their valuable inputs.

I would like to install a remote valve on my BX25; however, I am having difficulty figuring out how those hydraulic lines attached to the backhoe actually work. Might some members be able to shed a bit of light on a few questions please? For example:

1) Is there a diagram available that illustrates how the oil flows through the three hydraulic lines between the BX25 and the BT601?
2) Might there be a diagram that shows to which ports on the remote valve the above hydraulic lines should be connected to?
3) Finally, is there a diagram showing which ports on the remote valve would be connected to two hydraulic cylinders on a new attachment (other than the BT601)?