Farm Pro 2425 New Owner

[sanjoh]

Just picked up my first tractor a Farm Pro 2425. I want to thank everyone for some great information on this forum:thumbsup: Look forward to particiapting

Here's my feeble attempt at removing palmetto from the central Florida sand 5 minutes after taking it off the trailer. I have a new found respect for these buggers:laughing:

The tractor came to me with just under 100 hrs, it now has 107, slowly learning how to use it.

A quick question, what should the idle speed be? Yep I need a manual.

 

[EE_Bota]

Just picked up my first tractor a Farm Pro 2425. I want to thank everyone for some great information on this forum:thumbsup: Look forward to particiapting

Here's my feeble attempt at removing palmetto from the central Florida sand 5 minutes after taking it off the trailer. I have a new found respect for these buggers:laughing:

The tractor came to me with just under 100 hrs, it now has 107, slowly learning how to use it.

A quick question, what should the idle speed be? Yep I need a manual.

Nice looking tractor. Were you able to get is unstuck straight away?

Sorry, I don't know the idle speed, my tractor is the similar, but larger.

 

[Affordable]

MOst Idle speeds are around 600-700 RPM, good luck with your new tractor, the Koyker loader is nice also. We have all the parts for the tractor and the frontloader in stock, I have the Manuals also if you are interested, You will new the 200 series set with the Y385T engine if you want them all or you can get each one seperate,give us a call we will be glad to help 979-865-4002

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[greg_g]

I'm curious what model year(s) is/are listed on the data plates. I ask, because I thought those individual gauge models went out of production 10 years ago. The engine plate is usually on either the valve cover or the side of the block, and the tractor plate is typically inside one of the rear fenders or on the transmission housing.

//greg//

 

[EE_Bota]

I am curious too.

In case it helps any, mine has the individual gauges (a Farmpro 2430--Jinman 304) and the fender shows January of 04.
I can't see the ops switches that clearly, but they look like rocker switches, but mine are pull switches and toggle switches, with a horn button right in the middle.

 

[sanjoh]

Nice looking tractor. Were you able to get is unstuck straight away?

I was able to get it out without a probelem. Raised the loader with the bucket pointed at the ground, in reverse, then rotate the bucket and it pushes itself out. Strange in the sand it doesn't feel like it is sinking or digging in.

MOst Idle speeds are around 600-700 RPM, good luck with your new tractor, the Koyker loader is nice also. We have all the parts for the tractor and the frontloader in stock, I have the Manuals also if you are interested, You will new the 200 series set with the Y385T engine if you want them all or you can get each one seperate,give us a call we will be glad to help 979-865-4002

Thanks Tommy will give you guys a call. The hood is missing the latch mechanism (the frame mounted part) would you have this available?

I'm curious what model year(s) is/are listed on the data plates. I ask, because I thought those individual gauge models went out of production 10 years ago. The engine plate is usually on either the valve cover or the side of the block, and the tractor plate is typically inside one of the rear fenders or on the transmission housing.

//greg//

Manufacture date is late 2005, iirc

 

[Affordable]

We have the latch and the rubber knot part, the first 2-3 years FarmPro sold tractors they had the individual gauges, this was around 2004-2005, they sold the most economical tractor they could.They did not start with the 1- piece panel until around 2007. They also stopped using the Koyker loaders around the same time frame, and went back to the Chinese ZL-20 loaders.

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[greg_g]

Cool. Seven years old tractor with only 100 hours. Looks like it was well kept

//greg//

 

[sanjoh]

Cool. Seven years old tractor with only 100 hours. Looks like it was well kept

//greg//

I'm the third owner, the second owner left it out in the weather a bit. When I picked it up, the seller had to jump the solenoid to start it, even after he replaced the key, starter n solenoid. Not long after I brought it home the ignition worked fine after bypassing the clutch saftey switch. Don't worry, it's on the list o parts.

Original owner welded some u channels in the bucket for forks. Forks have come in handy for getting trees out of the ground. Hard to tell position as the bucket indicator was/is broken.

 

[EE_Bota]

Again, I like your tractor. I just wanted to mention, in case you haven't had time to read around much, folks suggest being a stickler for clutch adjustment on these tractors. Good luck!

 

[sanjoh]

My first accessory install:laughing:

Swiveling ATV drink holder, $8 from china mart.

 

[EE_Bota]

Actually, that's a pretty cool accessory. I am supposed to be drinking something nearly constantly, and my Farmpro doesn't have a cup holder, so thanks for the idea!

 

[stevem5215]

100 hrs you should be checking all the adjustments at this point. I'm sure they haven't been done prior. r/r the fluids every 100hrs and check and adjust valve lash, I'd also check the fuel tank screen above the fuel bowl too (which should be cleaned as well). Also, check the pressurized section of rubber fuel lines for cracking. There are some updated parts you can put on there to prevent failure at the wrong time, I'd also like another mentioned check the clutch adjustment over closely. This will prolong your clutch life especially with a loader in operation as you show in your pictures. It's harder on the clutch. Also, be careful with the 4wd. The front axles are known to break. I'd just use 2wd unless you get stuck. And I wouldn't use the 4wd with the loader operation. There's been lots who've broken axles doing that it seems.

I have a 2003 FarmPro 2420 like yours but mine is a 2 cyl diesel with 2wd.

Steve

Steve

 

[sanjoh]

Actually, that's a pretty cool accessory. I am supposed to be drinking something nearly constantly, and my Farmpro doesn't have a cup holder, so thanks for the idea!

Glad I could help, gotta stay hydrated while working in the heat.

Speaking of heat, when working a bit, the coolant will spit as the radiator cap opens, here's my solution. Best use of Heinz ketchup bottle I could think of

100 hrs you should be checking all the adjustments at this point. I'm sure they haven't been done prior. r/r the fluids every 100hrs and check and adjust valve lash, I'd also check the fuel tank screen above the fuel bowl too (which should be cleaned as well). Also, check the pressurized section of rubber fuel lines for cracking. There are some updated parts you can put on there to prevent failure at the wrong time, I'd also like another mentioned check the clutch adjustment over closely. This will prolong your clutch life especially with a loader in operation as you show in your pictures. It's harder on the clutch. Also, be careful with the 4wd. The front axles are known to break. I'd just use 2wd unless you get stuck. And I wouldn't use the 4wd with the loader operation. There's been lots who've broken axles doing that it seems.

I have a 2003 FarmPro 2420 like yours but mine is a 2 cyl diesel with 2wd.

Steve

Steve

Thanks for the heads up. All the fluids are at the right level and look ok, will need to have some filters for the first round.

Do these tractors have drains or do I need to suck it out of gearcase, transaxle etc?

You mention updated parts, could you be more specific?

 

[lexmark]

Good Luck with your new machine.I have a 2003 Farmpro 2420 I bought new and so far I have 336 hours on it.I use it to pull a 5 foot finishing mower ,so far I have oly had to replace the clutch,the power lift leaks down and the plastic steering wheel brok and now I am trying to change the fan belt.Good luck if your tractor is like mine.I am just saving up for a new Deere .

 

[Bob Rooks]

Speaking of heat, when working a bit, the coolant will spit as the radiator cap opens, here's my solution. Best use of Heinz ketchup bottle I could think of

Great idea! It must be kept 1/3 full otherwise it will suck air back into the cooling system.

 

[greg_g]

Lots of drains, but they're not terribly evident.
Front differential bottom drain
Front drive unit bottom drain (one right, one left)
Engine has a drain plug for oil, and a block drain for coolant
Radiator coolant drain
Tranny bottom drain
Transfer case bottom drain
Rear differential bottom drain (one minimum, some have two)
Hydraulic sump rear drain (up and to the left from the PTO stub)

And probably one or two others that I've forgotten

//greg//

 

[mrmikey]

the fuel tank screen above the fuel bowl too

Odd you should mention that , using mine hard Friday levelling a bit of property, when I was done I figured I'd run the rake over the driveway, while doing that she started missing and losing power. Ended up she stalled but she'd start right up again but with no power. Long story short there was a blockage at the fuel line from the tank to the pump, I had to blow it backwards to get any fuel to flow. I guess that's my next project, removing the tank and doing a clean out. Either that or wait 'till winter in the middle of a storm to fix it when I'm across the road, my usual scenario LOL...Mike

 

[Bob Rooks]

Odd you should mention that , using mine hard Friday levelling a bit of property, when I was done I figured I'd run the rake over the driveway, while doing that she started missing and losing power. Ended up she stalled but she'd start right up again but with no power. Long story short there was a blockage at the fuel line from the tank to the pump, I had to blow it backwards to get any fuel to flow. I guess that's my next project, removing the tank and doing a clean out. Either that or wait 'till winter in the middle of a storm to fix it when I'm across the road, my usual scenario LOL...Mike

What was the blockage? Black/brown silimey stuff? If so, you caught a dose of diesel bugs. Whish means after you thoroughly clean the fuel tank you will have to change all fuel filters and treat three full tanks subsequently with a biocide fuel additive like Seafoam or BioBor. Good idea to wear nitrile gloves when you do, and try to not get any in your eyes, nose or mouth.
Here is a good short British article on them. http://www.howcleanisyouroil.com/DIESEL-FUEL-BUG

 

[mrmikey]

No it wasn't, or at least I don't think it was diesel bugs first thing I thought of tho, I've very **** about keeping the fuel fresh so I don't keep much on hand and I always add treatment to the fuel Origonally I thought it was the filter plugged or water in it as I had'nt been running it lately so first off I removed the filter and dumped it out, clear as glass and no water....hmmmm. I went to prime the new filter and realized I had just dumped my last jug in so I figure no big deal I'll just put it on and pump the crap out of the primer pump, which I did with no success.
I removed the line going to the pump from the tank and nuttin, no fuel flowing at all and the sight glass was full and clear so I figured I had something blocking the outlet in the tank. I took the cap off and gavethe line at the banjo fitting a shot of air and then the fuel started flowing.
Looking in the tank with a flashlight I can see flakes of rust on the sides of the tank so I'm assuming some broke free and plugged the outlet. I keep the tank full but it was kept on a lot somewhere for a couple of years before I bought it and I don't imagine it was full there......Mike