PrePlanning for my Ballast/Tool Box Project...

[MossflowerWoods]

Guys & Gals,

My Kioti needs 1100 lbs of ballast in addition to the loaded rears to fully use my loader capability. I need a way to haul my chainsaws, and tools back and forth, and I'd LOVE to be able to also haul some wood etc. back with me.

Pic 1 is an old ballast from a small backhoe. Estimated weight is 350-450 lbs solid iron. This is is Item A.
Pic 2 is a homebuilt Carry all I recently purchased. This is Item B.
Pic 3 is a specialty shipping steel thing Kioti used to ship a door and other stuff to my dealer. This is Item C.
Pic 4 is a mock up of how I want to combine B & C.

Here is my "Cunning Plan"...

I want to weld C permanently to B, and somehow bolt A somewhere near the center on the bottom towards the tractor. Then I want to put in a floor, and weld angle iron corners. I want a concrete bottom (with a water drain) to get me to 1100 lbs, then with wooden PT boards above the crete making a storage area, and a couple of chain saw holders, etc. It will end up being low and heavy with useful storage and tools.

My issues are...
1 - I am a n00b
2 - I cannot weld and do not have a welder yet.
3 - I am concerned how much weight item C can support.
4 - I am not sure how to bolt Item A to the bottom.

What else have I forgot? Where else am I being a crackpot.

Please educate me.

Thanks in advance,
David

 

[murphy1244]

What is a nOOb?

 

[MossflowerWoods]

What is a nOOb?

Newbie, noob or n00b for short...

David

 

[murphy1244]

How long does that last?

 

[catdozer]

Where I would start if I were you is find some more steel weights, like that backhoe weight. And bolt the weights up to the 3pt hitch frame on the carryall. If you can find more weights and get 1100lbs then all you have to do is take large U bolts and bolt PVC pipe to empty frame near the top or sides where you don't have weights. As for that rack you have I would make it removable get some stands made for it, so you can back up slide the carryall under it and go. To have more safety make something to retain the rack, like a bolt or pin it.

Now if you don't have anymore steel weights I would get a larger rectangular box that can hold about 600 lbs of concrete and mount it to the back of the carryall. Then Bolt that backhoe weight to the outside of the box. Put some PVC pipes in the box drill some drain holes for the pipes and fill with concrete.

But I would make that rack removable so that say you have it full of wood its raining you can just drop it next to where you need it (house?) and can go put your tractor away. get some stands made for it, so you can back up slide the carryall under it and go. To have more safety, make something to retain the rack, like a bolt or pin it or something like a chain or racket binder.

 

[Zebrafive]

Some question first:

1 How much do A,B, & C weigh?
2 How wide is B?
3 Can you hook up to B as it sits? Will your 3pt hitch go low enough? If not you will want legs to make it higher.
4 Width and length of C? It looks too wide for manuvering in the woods/tight areas.
5 What is your 3pt lift capacity? Wondering how much you can haul in addition to your target of 1100lbs?

If A would fit between the 3pt arms and top link, I would build a mount to bolt it on forward of the carrier B. Cut C down to the width of B. Determine how much weight concrete needed. (1100lbs minus A=B= cut down C) Concrete is about 150lbs per cubic foot. Build a box the width of B, about 1/3 the length of the forks on B and what ever height gives you room for enough concrete plus how ever much higher you want to go for storage.
Mount the box, add your drain pvc and any tool holder pvc and pour the concrete.
Buy or build hinges so C (which is shortened to the width of B) can be attached to the remaining 2/3s of the forks of B. Hinges up against the concrete box. Mount grab hooks to the upper coners of B. Attach chains to each outside rear corner of C, long enough to hook in the grab hook with C level to the ground. When not using C fold up vertical and rehook the chains.

 

[kebo]

How long does that last?

Until you've been around tractors a while lol!!

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Where I would start if I were you is find some more steel weights, like that backhoe weight. And bolt the weights up to the 3pt hitch frame on the carryall. If you can find more weights and get 1100lbs then all you have to do is take large U bolts and bolt PVC pipe to empty frame near the top or sides where you don't have weights. As for that rack you have I would make it removable get some stands made for it, so you can back up slide the carryall under it and go. To have more safety make something to retain the rack, like a bolt or pin it.

Now if you don't have anymore steel weights I would get a larger rectangular box that can hold about 600 lbs of concrete and mount it to the back of the carryall. Then Bolt that backhoe weight to the outside of the box. Put some PVC pipes in the box drill some drain holes for the pipes and fill with concrete.

But I would make that rack removable so that say you have it full of wood its raining you can just drop it next to where you need it (house?) and can go put your tractor away. get some stands made for it, so you can back up slide the carryall under it and go. To have more safety, make something to retain the rack, like a bolt or pin it or something like a chain or racket binder.

CatDozer,

I would love to find more iron weights, but I am assuming I won't. I like the idea of removable rack, but I have no other use for the carry-all, it is simply here to become a ballast/tool box, and it is dropped easily with 3 simple pins...

Great feedback.

Thank you.
David

 

[MossflowerWoods]

How long does that last?

Until I'm smart enough about tractors/farming/etc. to answer my own questions I assume.
:thumbsup:
David

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Some question first:

1 How much do A,B, & C weigh?
2 How wide is B?
3 Can you hook up to B as it sits? Will your 3pt hitch go low enough? If not you will want legs to make it higher.
4 Width and length of C? It looks too wide for manuvering in the woods/tight areas.
5 What is your 3pt lift capacity? Wondering how much you can haul in addition to your target of 1100lbs?

If A would fit between the 3pt arms and top link, I would build a mount to bolt it on forward of the carrier B. Cut C down to the width of B. Determine how much weight concrete needed. (1100lbs minus A=B= cut down C) Concrete is about 150lbs per cubic foot. Build a box the width of B, about 1/3 the length of the forks on B and what ever height gives you room for enough concrete plus how ever much higher you want to go for storage.
Mount the box, add your drain pvc and any tool holder pvc and pour the concrete.
Buy or build hinges so C (which is shortened to the width of B) can be attached to the remaining 2/3s of the forks of B. Hinges up against the concrete box. Mount grab hooks to the upper coners of B. Attach chains to each outside rear corner of C, long enough to hook in the grab hook with C level to the ground. When not using C fold up vertical and rehook the chains.

Zebra Five,

1 - I am estimating, I really have no way to weigh these, but A is between 350 & 450lbs according to TBN guys who estimated it. B might be 100 lbs, probably more like 75-80. C is likely over 50 lbs, but it is awkward to hold (I'm using 50 lb feed bags as my measure). I am really just guessing.

2 - B (the carry all) is 4' 9" wide and only 33" deep total (<29" forks)

3 - I think so, but I like the idea of feet regardless.

4 - C (the rack) is 7' 1" x 3' 7.5" It would not be much bigger than the 7' HD Box Blade which is my only real other ballast option. I'm not squeezing between that many trees, and I need the ballast so I can grapple, which is typically in spaces MUCH wider than 7'. I really do not want to cut it down, it is not really even 6" on each side wider than my tractor.

5 - 3 pt lift is 2,493lbs (24" behind)

I like the idea of bolting A (weight) between toplink and bottom, but I thought lower like as one of the feet on the bottom was better.
I like the idea of hinging the rack, but I think it is almost useless as it is, without sides.
Other than manuverability, why would I make it narrower? I don't see the value in cutting the rack down to narrower than the tractor other than manuverability.

Really My vision is I only have concrete (7' x 3.5" x ?") maybe 12" or less thick, with a single drain, and wooden (like a stake bed) sides maybe 20" (basically three PT 2x6" boards with space between them). The saw scabbards would be between the tires and the box, same with the tool PVC pipes.

David

 

[murphy1244]

Until I'm smart enough about tractors/farming/etc. to answer my own questions I assume.
:thumbsup:
David

then its forever.

 

[k0ua]

Until I'm smart enough about tractors/farming/etc. to answer my own questions I assume.
:thumbsup:
David

David, I am not sure just when that happens!..Not a day goes by that I don't learn something new, or have a question answered here from the aggregated knowledge available here on this forum. I think it is just a matter of degree. I have owned tractors for about 20 years, and I have some of the simple stuff figured out. but I know there is plenty that I don't know:thumbsup:

James K0UA

 

[Zebrafive]

Zebra Five,

1 - I am estimating, I really have no way to weigh these, but A is between 350 & 450lbs according to TBN guys who estimated it. B might be 100 lbs, probably more like 75-80. C is likely over 50 lbs, but it is awkward to hold (I'm using 50 lb feed bags as my measure). I am really just guessing.

2 - B (the carry all) is 4' 9" wide and only 33" deep total (<29" forks)

3 - I think so, but I like the idea of feet regardless.

4 - C (the rack) is 7' 1" x 3' 7.5" It would not be much bigger than the 7' HD Box Blade which is my only real other ballast option. I'm not squeezing between that many trees, and I need the ballast so I can grapple, which is typically in spaces MUCH wider than 7'. I really do not want to cut it down, it is not really even 6" on each side wider than my tractor.

5 - 3 pt lift is 2,493lbs (24" behind)

I like the idea of bolting A (weight) between toplink and bottom, but I thought lower like as one of the feet on the bottom was better.
I like the idea of hinging the rack, but I think it is almost useless as it is, without sides.
Other than manuverability, why would I make it narrower? I don't see the value in cutting the rack down to narrower than the tractor other than manuverability.

Really My vision is I only have concrete (7' x 3.5" x ?") maybe 12" or less thick, with a single drain, and wooden (like a stake bed) sides maybe 20" (basically three PT 2x6" boards with space between them). The saw scabbards would be between the tires and the box, same with the tool PVC pipes.

David

So you have approx 500lbs so far. Then you need 600lbs more to make 1100lbs

The width of the rack you say will be no problem.

I would take A, B, & C to a welder. Have feet welded on to the carrier. Have the rack welded to the carrier. Have some scrap steel welded to the rack in proper place to bolt A to rack from bottom. Scrap steel is to span carrier bars. Will need holes for weight bolts.

In your vision for concrete (7' x 3.5" x?) did you mean 3.5' NOT 3.5"? If 3.5' your concrete will only have to be 3" thick to make 600lbs.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

So you have approx 500lbs so far. Then you need 600lbs more to make 1100lbs

The width of the rack you say will be no problem.

I would take A, B, & C to a welder. Have feet welded on to the carrier. Have the rack welded to the carrier. Have some scrap steel welded to the rack in proper place to bolt A to rack from bottom. Scrap steel is to span carrier bars. Will need holes for weight bolts.

In your vision for concrete (7' x 3.5" x?) did you mean 3.5' NOT 3.5"? If 3.5' your concrete will only have to be 3" thick to make 600lbs.

ZebraFive,

Yes, 7' x 3.5' is what I meant.

If I bent rebar into a "U" shape and had it welded on, would that work to hold the BH weight?

What should I use for a "floor" to pour the concrete onto, atop the rack? PT Plywood? Plastic paneling of some sort?

Thanks in advance.

 

[ricklman]

ZebraFive,

Yes, 7' x 3.5' is what I meant.

If I bent rebar into a "U" shape and had it welded on, would that work to hold the BH weight?

What should I use for a "floor" to pour the concrete onto, atop the rack? PT Plywood? Plastic paneling of some sort?

Thanks in advance.

Thinking on the fly here...
Place plywood UNDER the floor on supports, build form around box, pour concrete, dry, remove plywood. Concrete is the floor.
Place large allthread/bolts/pins in the form for C that would point TOWARDS B to join with newly drilled holes in B for Quick Attach capability. Then, you still have B as a Carry all.
Maybe place upright pipe/channel iron/? in the form for C before you pour the concrete so you could use removable panels as your utility box. Maybe different setups/panels for different jobs?

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Thinking on the fly here...
Place plywood UNDER the floor on supports, build form around box, pour concrete, dry, remove plywood. Concrete is the floor.
Place large allthread/bolts/pins in the form for C that would point TOWARDS B to join with newly drilled holes in B for Quick Attach capability. Then, you still have B as a Carry all.
Maybe place upright pipe/channel iron/? in the form for C before you pour the concrete so you could use removable panels as your utility box. Maybe different setups/panels for different jobs?

Are you suggesting encasing the rack entirely in Concete? Hmmm....

I would expect the concrete to be subject to damage when I drive poorly (happens from time to time).

I was thinking I would use a sheet of PT Plywood and just leave it there between the rack and the concrete. I would run angle iron in the corners, and 2 x 6PT boards up the sides.

I need to come up with some feet.

One of my concerns is the carry all only stick out 29" so it just barely goes past the halfway point of the rack (Item C). Does that make it unstable?
Just thinking out loud folks...

Thanks to all for their assistance.
David

 

[ricklman]

Are you suggesting encasing the rack entirely in Concete? Hmmm....

I would expect the concrete to be subject to damage when I drive poorly (happens from time to time).

I was thinking I would use a sheet of PT Plywood and just leave it there between the rack and the concrete. I would run angle iron in the corners, and 2 x 6PT boards up the sides.

I need to come up with some feet.

One of my concerns is the carry all only stick out 29" so it just barely goes past the halfway point of the rack (Item C). Does that make it unstable?
Just thinking out loud folks...

Thanks to all for their assistance.
David

I was thinking the floor would be concrete with "channels" embedded for your side panel stakes to slip into. That said, I was also thinking you could make up different side panels for different projects and they could be interchangeable based on the daily need. I'm really not a fan of single-use implements if I can get around them.

Based on how you embedded the channels, your side panel(s) could overlap or hang down over the concrete base and provide "some" protection maybe?

Yeah, I looked at the length of the forks and was thinking you'd be over balanced also. Maybe make up some extenders of some kind, or bolt them on the bottom of C, but I can't get my brain wrapped around that yet.

Overall, I'm just thinking of keeping the 2 separate with some kind of Quick Attachment capability and providing multiple uses for C.

Please feel free to disregard any/all of these suggestions. Honest, it won't hurt my feelings any :laughing:

 

[MossflowerWoods]

David, I am not sure just when that happens!..Not a day goes by that I don't learn something new, or have a question answered here from the aggregated knowledge available here on this forum. I think it is just a matter of degree. I have owned tractors for about 20 years, and I have some of the simple stuff figured out. but I know there is plenty that I don't know:thumbsup:

James K0UA

James,

That is EXACTLY How I expect to feel also (once I've caught up to you)...

Be well,
David

 

[Zebrafive]

ZebraFive,

Yes, 7' x 3.5' is what I meant.

If I bent rebar into a "U" shape and had it welded on, would that work to hold the BH weight?

What should I use for a "floor" to pour the concrete onto, atop the rack? PT Plywood? Plastic paneling of some sort?

Thanks in advance.

Since your weight A has holes in it I would bolt it on. You could determinte where the bolt holses need to be and put some PVC tubes in the concrete for the bolts to go thru. You may want to put four PVC tubes in the proper places to bolt the rack to the carrier.

I would not pour the concrete on top of the rack. I would put the plywood below for the form. If you weld it to the carrier first, just cut three pieces of plywood to make a bottom form.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Since your weight A has holes in it I would bolt it on. You could determinte where the bolt holses need to be and put some PVC tubes in the concrete for the bolts to go thru. You may want to put four PVC tubes in the proper places to bolt the rack to the carrier.

This makes good sense, at least for the weight (I'm thinking about making a rig to add it to my stump grinder also, so protability is good).

I would not pour the concrete on top of the rack. I would put the plywood below for the form. If you weld it to the carrier first, just cut three pieces of plywood to make a bottom form.

I'm not sure I follow this one. I THINK you are suggesting part of the rack will be INSIDE the concrete when finished. Right?

Thanks,
David