Oil & Fuel FarmPro 2425
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dbear
Gold Member
Bad fuel filter, or tank cap?
RonMar
Elite Member
+1
If it still does it with the filler cap removed, then I would start by draining the tank and removing the fuel outlet fitting. Should be a mesh screen at the tank outlet. There are also most likley screens at the IP lift pump inlet, and again at the actual inlet to the IP. Probably wouldn't hurt to break all the fuel fittings between tank and IP and look for obstructions.
But it does sound as if there is an obstruction and it eventually pulls enough vacume to overcome the lift pump's ability to pull fuel to the IP...
If it still does it with the filler cap removed, then I would start by draining the tank and removing the fuel outlet fitting. Should be a mesh screen at the tank outlet. There are also most likley screens at the IP lift pump inlet, and again at the actual inlet to the IP. Probably wouldn't hurt to break all the fuel fittings between tank and IP and look for obstructions.
But it does sound as if there is an obstruction and it eventually pulls enough vacume to overcome the lift pump's ability to pull fuel to the IP...
Affordable
Advertiser, Platinum Member
If it starts and runs good when it's running, I would also say its starving for fuel, there are a few screens to check,1- is one the fuel sediment bowl, you will have to remove to clean the screen that is on the top of it, 1- inside the fuel bowl, 1- inside the bolt that holds the fuel line to the bottom of the fuel injector pump.Any or all of these can be causing the problem,
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
greg_g
Super Member
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Sounds roughly the time it takes to burn the pint or so of fuel held by the spin-on fuel filter. My guess is that one of the other in-line filters is restricted to the point that the engine is burning fuel faster than gravity can replenish the spin-on cannister. Then when it quits running, it then sets long enough for dripping fuel to eventually refill the spin-on. That's what it sounds like anyway.
Loosen the spin-on filter just enough to turn by hand, then tighten it back up again. Start and run the tractor, until such time as it quits again. Then immediately remove that spin-on and see just how much fuel is inside. On a clean and unrestricted fuel system, it should be full at all times. If not, we'll then work backwards to find the bottleneck.
//greg//
greg_g
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Ah, that suggests that the fuel filter has never been changed since new. Many - if not most - early engines had the filters installed before painting. So the first time the spin-ons needed changing, they had to essentially be destroyed during removal. The most effective trick was to drive a sturdy screwdriver straight through the canister, then turn the filter off with the screwdriver handle.
If the oil filter looks the same, you might want to change them both - before proceeding on to my previous suggestion. American cross-over replacement filters are available at most auto parts stores.
//greg//
If the oil filter looks the same, you might want to change them both - before proceeding on to my previous suggestion. American cross-over replacement filters are available at most auto parts stores.
//greg//
Diamondpilot
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Fuel issue as the guys said. Change the filter and check the 3 fuel screens.
As for the filter you turning it the right way? Its mounted upside down and has cause more than one guy to spin it the wrong way, including me. Cussed a boat once for 3 hours till I seen what I was doing wrong.
If that is not it get two guys on it. Put both filter wrenches as close to the base as possible and you both pull on it as close as 90deg away from each other as possible.
Chris
As for the filter you turning it the right way? Its mounted upside down and has cause more than one guy to spin it the wrong way, including me. Cussed a boat once for 3 hours till I seen what I was doing wrong.
If that is not it get two guys on it. Put both filter wrenches as close to the base as possible and you both pull on it as close as 90deg away from each other as possible.
Chris
I attached two pics; one showing the filter; looking at the pic then I sould be turning to the left, correct; or if the chinese use reverse threads then I should turn it to the right?
The second is a hose that has a significnat crack right at the fitting; there isn't fuel seeping her though; is for air?
The second is a hose that has a significnat crack right at the fitting; there isn't fuel seeping her though; is for air?
Attachments
Rich Waugh
Platinum Member
Filter: As you're looking at the photo, have the wrench handle pointing to the right and pull it to the left - counter clockwise, or anti-clockwise as our British cousins say. It is a standard RH thread, like all filters I'm aware of. If it doesn't want to unscrew with the filter wrench, try a big pair of water pump pliers if you have them. Failing that, you can take a sharp cold chisel and work at the crimp seam where it meets the filter housing. Note: you're not trying to cut the filter loose - the chisel should be placed on the crimp and angled so that a hammer blow on the chisel will make the edge dig in a bit and turn the filter. So the chisel should be angled from the right to the left and you're shoving the filter to the left when you strike it. You don't beat **** out of it, either. Do it in one spot with a couple or three moderate hits and then move to the right an inch and do it again. Go as far around the crimp as you can reach until it starts to move and then use the wrench. Far more than just one way to undress a feline, eh?
That hose is a fuel line, not air. Maybe the return-to-tank line. It will have fuel in it, but not at injector pressure, just lift pump pressure. I'd pickup a piece of braided fuel hose at the auto supply and replace it - it's cheap. Chinese rubber doesn't seem to hold up well, for some reason, with the exception of tires which are generally okay. Radiator hoses, fuel hoses, air lines, they all crap out sooner than American-made stuff, but replacement hose is easily available. For shaped radiator hoses, take the old one with you and find one that has the right configuration - doesn't matter if its too long, you just cut out the section that matches what you have and you're good to go.
That hose is a fuel line, not air. Maybe the return-to-tank line. It will have fuel in it, but not at injector pressure, just lift pump pressure. I'd pickup a piece of braided fuel hose at the auto supply and replace it - it's cheap. Chinese rubber doesn't seem to hold up well, for some reason, with the exception of tires which are generally okay. Radiator hoses, fuel hoses, air lines, they all crap out sooner than American-made stuff, but replacement hose is easily available. For shaped radiator hoses, take the old one with you and find one that has the right configuration - doesn't matter if its too long, you just cut out the section that matches what you have and you're good to go.
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greg_g
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That's called a banjo fitting, and it looks bent. I'd replace it before you end up spewing fuel all over the side of a hot engine some day. Can't tell for sure, but that looks like the hose between the filter and the pump. One of mine blew while mowing a dry field, and I'm lucky I didn't start a fire.
You can replace the fitting only, or you can replace the whole hose. I checked my spare parts bin, found a spare fitting AND a spare hose (banjos both ends). But I'd need measurements to make sure mine fit yours.
Oh, and yes - remove the filter canister by turning left. I drove a heavy duty screwdriver thru mine from right to left, slipped a cheater over the screwdriver handle, then pulled. Once you break the pain seal, you're over the hump.
//greg//
This line runs from the item below to right in the pic and then up to 'rail' of sorts connecting to the first cylinder and then to each of the other cylinders.
The long screwdriver trick on the filter was used in the past on a diesel truck's oil filter; messy but effective.
You folks have been so helpful; glad I found this site. :thumbsup:
The long screwdriver trick on the filter was used in the past on a diesel truck's oil filter; messy but effective.
You folks have been so helpful; glad I found this site. :thumbsup:
Rich Waugh
Platinum Member
Greg,
"Once you break the pain seal, you're over the hump.
Was that just a typo or a Freudian "slip" (if you'll pardon the pun)? :laughing:
I've sure barked my knuckles a number of times on balky filters and slipping wrenches.
"Once you break the pain seal, you're over the hump.
Was that just a typo or a Freudian "slip" (if you'll pardon the pun)? :laughing:
I've sure barked my knuckles a number of times on balky filters and slipping wrenches.
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
The defective hose in question is the fuel return line to the tank via the injector bleed-off lines. You can tell it's the fuel return line because of the pressure relief/regulating valve banjo bolt - look closely and you'll see another hex head on top of the banjo bolt.
I'm not sure of the filter removal instructions given, a little ambiguous to my mind, but if you were underneath the filter looking up at it, it would want to turn counter-clockwise for removal. Lefty loosey, righty tightie.
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greg_g
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Never noticed that. I typed "paint", but the "t" apparently didn't tag along for the ride.
//greg//
Well, tried all of suggestions here; still couldn't get that filter off. Had to disconnect two lines and remove the bracket holding the filter, take into the garage put it in a vise with filter pointing up, drove the long screwdriver thru it and after 4-5 tries the seal broke and the filter started to come loose. OMG! Got the new filter on and now it's back to reinstalling everything.
greg_g
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Given that the oil filter's never been changed, odds are good the fuel filter is original too. Probably a good idea to replace that one too. Trick to that is to have the new filter already filled to the brim with diesel. Then the instant your old one drops off into a bucket, spin the new one on as quick as possible. That technique often avoids having to bleed the system to make it start up again.
//greg//
//greg//
Affordable
Advertiser, Platinum Member
Given that the oil filter's never been changed, odds are good the fuel filter is original too. Probably a good idea to replace that one too. Trick to that is to have the new filter already filled to the brim with diesel. Then the instant your old one drops off into a bucket, spin the new one on as quick as possible. That technique often avoids having to bleed the system to make it start up again.
//greg//
greg_g it's the fuel filter he just did ?????
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
//greg//
greg_g it's the fuel filter he just did ?????
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
greg_g
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Ok, had it in my head we were spinning off the oil filter. Senior moment. I'll change the wording, but the intent is the same; that is, change the other filters while you're at it.
//greg//
The filter was filled with fuel and reinstalled. The fuel lines reattached. The file bowl under the tank was pulled and the. Screen checked, all good. Is there another screen in the system before the filte? how does one bleed the system?