jd 5510 hydraulics

[cowski]

my jd 5510 hydraulics this winter are slow to work when the tractor is cold.after 30 minutes they mostly work fine.during the first thirty minutes they work real jerky or do not work at all.the tractor has over 3600 hours on it. i have changed the fluid,filter and cleaned the screen.it appeared to have a little fine break material in it.anyone have any ideas?

 

[hosspuller]

Manual says to turn the steering wheel to lock, The fluid that goes through the relief valve will heat the rest of the oil.

engine speed = 1000 rpm

hold steering wheel in full lock left or right

DO NOT EXCEED 2 to 3 MINUTES warm up time

 

[JD5210]

There was a post awhile back that was very similar to yours. The thinking was that the brake material might be an o-ring that was going bad. Members felt that it was on the suction side and not the pressure side, since on the pressure side most likely fluid would be coming out. On the suction side air was getting in causing the problem you described.

How is the steering and the 3Pt? Granted these are on different sides of the pump, but might provide some other insight to the problem.

I am guessing you have the tech. manual, but I have attached a picture of the hydraulic system that might give others some thoughts.

Please keep us posted on how things go.

 

[Edward. S]

Manual says to turn the steering wheel to lock, The fluid that goes through the relief valve will heat the rest of the oil.

engine speed = 1000 rpm

hold steering wheel in full lock left or right

DO NOT EXCEED 2 to 3 MINUTES warm up time

Thanks for telling me that! Now I don't have to idle my tractors for minutes and look like an idiot when its warming up.

 

[cowski]

the steering just barely works .i was thinking it might be a check valve or relief valve.after winter feeding i am going to work on it.does any one have an idea where? thanks

 

[cowski]

any more thoughts? thanks

 

[AKfish]

any more thoughts? thanks

Have you tried any other options on your end? What's the status of the other hyd functions?

AKfish

 

[Tx Jim]

any more thoughts? thanks

If your tractor has SCV's you could get a 2 ft hyd hose and put 2 male coupler tips on it and insert in breakaway couplers and move control lever to circulate oil. I did this when I worked at a JD dealer to heat up hyd to help diagnose malfunctions on a JD closed center hyd system.

PS:This method was recommended by JD.

 

[AKfish]

If your tractor has SCV's you could get a 2 ft hyd hose and put 2 male coupler tips on it and insert in breakaway couplers and move control lever to circulate oil. I did this when I worked at a JD dealer to heat up hyd to help diagnose malfunctions on a JD closed center hyd system.

PS:This method was recommended by JD.

Still do... that's the recommended method for my 2011 5075M. In the Operator's manual from Deere. (Really wished they made a hyd heater - similar to the one for the JD 110TLB.)

AKfish

 

[cowski]

hey tx jim i believe it has open center hydraulics .the problem i am having is cold ,warm it is fine.is this normal for a 3600 hour 5510 tractor ? is the fix to install the hose to warm it faster?i was thinking a valve might be sticking.what do you think,i am all ears?

 

[AKfish]

hey tx jim i believe it has open center hydraulics .the problem i am having is cold ,warm it is fine.is this normal for a 3600 hour 5510 tractor ? is the fix to install the hose to warm it faster?i was thinking a valve might be sticking.what do you think,i am all ears?

Is this the first time you've experienced this kind of problem in 3,600 hours? Or is the tractor "new to you"?

Maybe all you need to do is switch over to Lo-Vis hydraulic fluid.. JD20D.

Yep... the hydraulic hose loop just re-circulates the fluid thru the sump and pump without either moving the tractor or using the steering, loader or 3pt.

AKfish

 

[Tx Jim]

I'm aware that the hyd system is open center. The jumper is only hooked up to circulate the hyd oil. You could also add a flow restricter in the jumper hose to speed up the heating process. JD offered some disc restricters(part # E87834) . These restricter discs fit between the hose threads and the coupler threads.

 

[cowski]

i have had this tractor almost 10 years.it started being cold natured a couple of years ago.it is noticeable in the winter.but it was worse this winter.i wonder if it could be a check valve sticking? i would like to thank hosspuller,jd5210,akfish and txjim for trying to help me.

 

[cowski]

any one else having this problem?

 

[Curssed]

Hi my name is jake and i have a 5510. About 10 years old and we have had a bad air sucking problem from the begining. We are on the 4th pump now and deere's only advice and help they will give is for us to sell the tractor. They stopped working on it and could not fix the problem in the 6same years they tried. I am hoping to find some kind of fix myself one of these days

 

[Tx Jim]

Has sump intake pipe been checked for cracks/air leaks?

 

[Curssed]

I have pressure tested the original tube and it has sense been replaced along with every piece that bolts on to the pump all the way to the rear housing. This tractor has the power reverser transmission and i have even replaced the oil suction line for it aswell, it bolts to the same place as the pump suction. The techs put a clear tube in place of the steel suction line and can see the bubbles but cant fix the problem. I was gonna try and move the suction for the pump to a different location just to take all that extra crap that is bolted on out of the picture

 

[J_J]

So, to be clear, you are seeing many small bubbles in the tank, and the cyl are mushy in operation, and you constantly have to bleed the air from the system.


Can you follow the suction line from the pump back to the tank, or is it internal?

If it is external, you can pack grease around it and if the air ingestion stops, then you have found your leak.

Maybe go ahead and replace the suction tube/pipe.

Suction tube inside the tank maybe be damage,broken, cracked, etc allowing air in.

If you can see the suction inlet on the pump, make a test suction hose and place directly in the tank, and connect to pump suction port, but prime the hose first.

If the pump then sucks fluid with no air, then the original suction hose/line is at fault, and needs replacing.

 

[Tx Jim]

Have you tried operating tractor with the hyd oil level over full IE submerging suction tube under oil?

 

[Curssed]

Suction line is external. Suction line has been tested and was good and then replaced anyway. The suction line and filter housing is all below the oil level in the sump and there are no seeping or wet spots aswell. There is a screen in the sump and i have removed and cleaned it and put new oil in the tractor and over filled by 4and gallons to test that idea aswell but did not help. I have removed the the top of the rock shaft case where the sump is and hooked the hydralics up with a test hose and ran tractor and you can see and hear the air coming out of the dump line but it is not sucking air from the sump. I could look at where it was and there was almost a foot of oil over it and no signs of air getting to it.

My tractor has the power reverser transmission and i have replaced the o rings on the tube that feed it aswell but i am starting to wonder if it could be sucking air from the transmission somehow. Has anyone had a problem with there power reverser trans