outriggers for boxblade to improve grading performance?

[jcims]

Hey folks,

Has anyone on here tried building outriggers for a box blade to help keep it floating level when grading (primarily gravel drives in my case)? I'm thinking of building say 8"x20" load plates that will have an 'upside down' C channel that will snugly fit 2"x4" tube steel and hold it flush to the bottom of the BB. Weld the plate to the side of the BB to spread the load. Then, when I want to do some grading, drop the BB down on the tube steel runners that are 6'-8' long.

Runners would of course need some kind of stop welded to them to keep them from sliding out from under the BB when it's dragging, but it seems the whole thing could be held together via gravity with some simple latches to allow lifting of the contraption. There shouldn't be much side loading, so as long as the channel is gusseted properly, I would think it should hold up fairly well. Maybe keep some shims on hand to allow the blade to be adjusted relative to the runner.

Do you think a 2x4x3/8" tube would hold up reasonably well under that kind of abuse? The BB in question is pretty heavy (really old Gannon), but the blade should be supporting it most of the time. Might need wear plates.

Buying a grader for $1K is probably the best option, but I am already using up a bit of space for attachments, and this seems like a decent option.

Thanks!

 

[tglass]

Hey folks,

Has anyone on here tried building outriggers for a box blade to help keep it floating level when grading (primarily gravel drives in my case)? I'm thinking of building say 8"x20" load plates that will have an 'upside down' C channel that will snugly fit 2"x4" tube steel and hold it flush to the bottom of the BB. Weld the plate to the side of the BB to spread the load. Then, when I want to do some grading, drop the BB down on the tube steel runners that are 6'-8' long.

Runners would of course need some kind of stop welded to them to keep them from sliding out from under the BB when it's dragging, but it seems the whole thing could be held together via gravity with some simple latches to allow lifting of the contraption. There shouldn't be much side loading, so as long as the channel is gusseted properly, I would think it should hold up fairly well. Maybe keep some shims on hand to allow the blade to be adjusted relative to the runner.

Do you think a 2x4x3/8" tube would hold up reasonably well under that kind of abuse? The BB in question is pretty heavy (really old Gannon), but the blade should be supporting it most of the time. Might need wear plates.

Buying a grader for $1K is probably the best option, but I am already using up a bit of space for attachments, and this seems like a decent option.

Thanks!

check some of the previous quotes on wheels behind box blades. i've put jacks on mine to give indefinate adjustment and it works fine.

 

[jcims]

check some of the previous quotes on wheels behind box blades. i've put jacks on mine to give indefinate adjustment and it works fine.

I figured I was just searching for the wrong things... Much obliged!

 

[smiley]

I copied this over from the customization forum as it covers what you're attempting.
Here's the link to the entire thread. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/229410-boxblade-add-ons-3.html#post2659289

This was something I did several years ago to spread free blacktop down my 350 ft driveway.
I Just made 2 ft sides to bolt on my rear scraper blade effectively turning it into a boxblade, then bolted the angle iron skids about 3 ft long near the bottom front of the sides and welded another 8" piece of angle near the blade at 90 degrees, with a torch cut slot and bolted through near the blade, to allow up and down adjustment. This is a crude version of the blacktop spreader boxes we used. it worked OK but of course left skid marks in the blacktop that had to be touched up by hand. It was much better than trying to do it with a blade as the skids eliminated the dips and dives. It does require good judgement in placing somewhere near the right amount of material on the ground or dumping in small piles, driving over them and pulling them along then touching up where need be.
I saw one of the sides in the garage this year so if I can find it will take a photo and post it.
This could be done with any blade such as snowplow or loader bucket as all it does is hold the blade a given distance above the ground to give a consistent depth.
The longer the skids, the more leveling effect. Weight helps hold it down but the tractor I used this on had downpressure (IH350) on the 3 pt so it was not an issue.

 

[jenkinsph]

jcims,
The skids can be a good addition to your Gannon. I have intended to build a set for mine but am waiting for the chance to get the right tubing to make them out of. My plan is to use 2x6x1/4 rectangular tubing for the skids and mount them with a pivot near the center of the back wall of the boxblade. I would also have stops to limit their travel to about 10 degrees. This would allow you to adjust your toplink trim while finish grading. I was planning on 2 1/2" flatbar for wear strips tacked on the lower side of the skids.

I have given this some thought over the last year or so and did consider the fact that I might need to have a tierod of sorts to connect the two skids together at the rear. Reasoning that any amount of turning with long skids could easily tweak the mounting pivits.

I built a landplane 8' wide with 60" skids and it works great but their are lots of jobs I do where it would be convenient to bring the boxblade with the quick attach skids and only have to bring one implement. This won't be as good as a purpose built landplane but will help quite a bit.

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.