What wrong with this John deere picture.

[yelbike]

The block heater doesn't work on my 2320. I tested the cord. Ok. Tested the element, infinit ohms, its burnt open. Okay not so bad. I need to replace the element. Right?

On an unrelated trip the Canadian Tire (similar to Auto zone) I checked and they have the automotive replacement block heaters generally on sale from $35 down to $25. Why is it $109 from the John Deere stealer, oops I meant dealer. Block heater can't be that different. Obviously the deere threads are different so no easy fix there. Its just frustrating.

Two things.

Firstly, I bought this tractor used from the dealer in the fal. It had 140hrs, now it has 154 hrs. He was good enough to give me a new 4wd indicator switch 2 days after I took delivery as the switch was faulty. Should he do the same with the block heater? I think if he does great, if he doesn't no big deal, but it doesn't hurt to ask. Tractor is off warranty.

Secondly, does anyone know of an aftermarket one?

 

[dconine]

It wouldn't hurt to ask. Often times I hear of Deere warranting things well out of warranty. In your case you don't have a lot of machine hours to I would at least check with them and see what they say. Worst they can say is no.

 

[RoyJackson]

I also suggest asking the dealer. Since you've only put 14 hours on the tractor, I think it's a good chance he'll get you the block heater.
I'm curious why it failed...there isn't much to them...

 

[psdx]

Your diagnosis is correct. The heating element failures almost always come from operating without being suspended in liquid to limit the heat. When they are operated only immersed in liquid they would normally last many years. Is it possible it was operated dry?

And just out of curiosity, how did you test the heating element separate from testing the cord? Is there a connector on the end of the cord? The ones I've seen have no place to separate (electrically) the cord from the heating element. You should just be able to check resistance across the cord prongs with it all plugged together (assuming there's no switch) and the resistance across the cord prongs should be about 50 ohms. The same would be true across the heating element directly.

...and, that is a crazy price for the one from JD. It probably doesn't even have any green paint .

 

[yelbike]

Nope no green paint!

I asked the salesman today, he said the manager was out, so he'll get back to me tomorrow.

As far as operating without or low coolant....well thats the down side to buying used....you don't know what the last guy did.

 

[JDTank]

Not surprised the stealership price is so high.

Look at the plastic fenders for the X7xx series garden tractors, 2 very small, thin, plastic fenders are priced at about $170 per set if I remember correctly. It's about 4 pounds of plastic, there isn't $170 worth of oil in those fenders.

 

[RoyJackson]

Not surprised the stealership price is so high.

Look at the plastic fenders for the X7xx series garden tractors, 2 very small, thin, plastic fenders are priced at about $170 per set if I remember correctly. It's about 4 pounds of plastic, there isn't $170 worth of oil in those fenders.

No...but what you're paying for is a rather expensive mold tool for a product that sells in a relatively low volume.

 

[Egon]

Typical block heater.
http://www.phillipsandtemro.com/userfiles//7749.jpg

Note: The attachment cord.

 

[Sawdust102]

http://www.****************.com/forums/showthread.php?2922-Block-Heater-for-2520

 

[Sawdust102]

Replace ******* with "green tractor talk"

 

[zzvyb6]

I've never had the need for a block heater. I invest in good antifreeze. Apparently, its quite a bit cheaper, too...

If you feel like you still need it, why not grind out the old element and epoxy in a new $20 one from ZoneAuto ?

The dealer is probably one of the few remaining honest ones who pays property taxes, business taxes, license taxes, income taxes, school taxes, and counterspace taxes. And they want to send their kid to a college so they don't have to struggle be a John Deere dealer.

Oh, and you know our money is becoming quite worthless too, right? What did you pay last time you bought a chocolate bar that had a nickels worth of chocolate in it ? Are you sure it was even chocolate, or was it melamine flavored with artificial chocolate sweetener and dyed with Brown 25 (Did you maybe have a craving for plastic afterwards) ?

 

[yelbike]

I live in central Canada. The tractor can be a necessity around here. If its in the garage it starts fine. But if for some reason it needs to be left outside overnight, I won't take a chance of it not starting.

 

[yelbike]

Replace ******* with "green tractor talk"

Linked worked but where are they available?

 

[yelbike]

OMG I can't believe you guys are cheating on TBN. :laughing:

Anyways thanks for the link. I found the block heater at canaidian tire. They ordered it. $40. Zerostart 310-0003.

I still haven't heard from the dealer.

 

[KennedyDiesel]

You know this wouldn't be the first incorrectly installed block heater depending on how it goes. Some of these included a cast mounting block that bolts to the engine. The problem is that if a frost plug is not removed prior to installation, then it's just heating air and will burn out in short order.

 

[yelbike]

Thanks. I'll make sure to check. Thats kinda funny cause I could see someone make that mistake.:laughing:

 

[KML]

As far as heater longevity -

Kats says having the heater on when the engine is running is bad. That's something I used to do all the time with the truck (7.3PSD) and tractor. Normal routine was start the machine, do all the little fart around stuff like check the tires, etc - then unplug the heater, usually before driving off :ashamed: I quit doing it after running into this. I don't know why it would be bad but they seem pretty convinced


"How do I get the most life from my Kat痴 Heater products?

If your Kats product is installed and maintained properly, it will provide you with years of reliable performance. It is important to follow all instructions as indicated when doing the initial installation of the selected part(s), this includes making sure that all air is properly bled from the system. Always unplug your Kats heating product before starting the vehicle, as the heater should never be energized while the vehicle is running, since this will significantly shorten the products life. It is also a good idea to use distilled water for your coolant/water mixture. This will guard against the buildup of calcium and lime, and keep your unit heating for years to come."