Top link repair

   / Top link repair #1  

smoker

Bronze Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2010
Messages
88
Location
Central NYS
Tractor
Kubota B9200
Busted the top link on my post hole digger. Have any of you folks done a repair? I see that CST has a repair swivel eye, ( out of stock ), but it looks like a problem welding a flat to the round stub I have left on mine. Any ideas?
Thanks, smoker
 
   / Top link repair #2  
Got photos of the area?
 
   / Top link repair
  • Thread Starter
#3  
i'll try....ain't too good at it.
 
   / Top link repair #4  
i'll try....ain't too good at it.
If you are talking about Posting the photos.... Look for the paperclip after you post a reply (see photo below; another window opens, then find the photo)... if you are talking about talking the actual photo... well, do the best you can :D
 
   / Top link repair #5  
grinder should fix that round to flat weld issue...
 
   / Top link repair
  • Thread Starter
#6  
the original stub is 1 1/4, suppose I could grind a flat, it would leave me a little off center but I can't see that as an issue. Good idea, Thanks.
 
   / Top link repair #7  
On my PHD a notch was cut at top and bottom of the tube then sides of tube were flattened to come up against the rectangle bar then welded in.
Another way would be, use one of the threaded ends from a normal top link and make a bushing or use differenct sized tubing to layer to size that will fit in the tube. Weld bushing(s) togther then weld in the tube.
 
   / Top link repair
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Lets see if this works.
 

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   / Top link repair
  • Thread Starter
#10  
SSdoxie, that thought passed my mind. I saw where I could buy just one threaderd end of a top link. All I would need to do then was cutoff to original length bush and weld. Sound about right?
 
   / Top link repair #12  
best bet is probably to cut/grind off the broken part and weld on a replacement piece.
 
   / Top link repair
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Teg, That's right and the stub I have left on the POD is 1 !/4. rjmack, I would like nothing better but the replacement part has a flat tang. That and my questioable skill as a welder......you get the idea :)
 
   / Top link repair #14  
Tegs sugestion would work or you could also cut a "cat eye" out of thick flat bar or plate and drill the right size hole in it. Make it the same width as the PHDs tube size and then cut off the 1 1/4" stub and weld it to the flat plate on the end of the tube. :)
 
   / Top link repair #15  
cut the old broken end off, notch that 1 1/4 piece for the flat section, then weld up with high penetrating 6011 1/8 rod.. say.. 110a or so.

soundguy
 
   / Top link repair
  • Thread Starter
#16  
That sounds dandy for you maybe but.....I don't trust my welding. I like the bushing idea then I can ram the old heat right to it :)
 
   / Top link repair #17  
Smoker, Not knowing where your at I would say if your close to one of us we would help you weld it or be there for you to weld it! :thumbsup:
 
   / Top link repair
  • Thread Starter
#18  
That's quite an offer, thank you very much for the thought. I just noticed that I didn't list my location so I fixed it. You guys are a long way off.
 
   / Top link repair #19  
Smoker, Cut the rod off flush at what appears to be flat washer welded on end of the tube to see what is behind there, maybe there is already a buhsing of some sort in there. I can't believe a washer on the end with the rod shaft going through that would have been strong enough to tay there and bust the rod end.

If you want a heavier duty rod shaft use a Cat 2 link and adapt it down with a cat 1 to cat 2 bushing.

Don't be afraid to try welding, it does not have to look pretty to hold. Follow Sound Guys advice with some 6011 and go for it. Worse you do is break it off again. :laughing:
 
   / Top link repair #20  
and if it needs to be pretty, put some 6013 over the 6011 and make it look like the row of dimes everybody wants to see.
 

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