1026R - lights and more lights

[chelydra]

For some reason, I generally seem to have to move snow at night. Headlights bounce back more light from blower or loader than they send forward, so that's NG. Those cute little side-lights on the 1026R turn out to be on pointable mounts - if it says that in the manual, I missed it. Anyway, aiming them down and outward seems to send enough light bouncing around to be more helpful.

Still, I plan to add a ROPS light, probably a pair of 55W lamps pointing fore-and-aft. Is that a safe load for the "cigarette lighter" outlet and the 40A alternator? Would three such lamps be safe?

Also, I haven't yet found a free end on a wiring harness. Is there a good place around back to plug directly into an unswitched 12V line?

Thanks-

Chelydra

 

[cast_and_blast]

For some reason, I generally seem to have to move snow at night. Headlights bounce back more light from blower or loader than they send forward, so that's NG. Those cute little side-lights on the 1026R turn out to be on pointable mounts - if it says that in the manual, I missed it. Anyway, aiming them down and outward seems to send enough light bouncing around to be more helpful.

Still, I plan to add a ROPS light, probably a pair of 55W lamps pointing fore-and-aft. Is that a safe load for the "cigarette lighter" outlet and the 40A alternator? Would three such lamps be safe?

Also, I haven't yet found a free end on a wiring harness. Is there a good place around back to plug directly into an unswitched 12V line?

Thanks-

Chelydra

Those 55W lamps are going to draw approximately 5 amps each. I don't think you'd want them running through a cigarette lighter plug. Should have plenty of amps available with the 40A alternator.

Scott

 

[Gobblin Tom]

I've got 4, 55 watt Hella lights on my rops 2 forward and 2 backwards, seems to be ok on my 2520... The kits I bought came with lights, relays and switches.... I actually thinking about adding a 3rd light front and back more of a flood light...

 

[BethesdaEC]

I've got 4, 55 watt Hella lights on my rops 2 forward and 2 backwards, seems to be ok on my 2520... The kits I bought came with lights, relays and switches.... I actually thinking about adding a 3rd light front and back more of a flood light...

I have a 2520 and I am using the axillary light circuit provided by Deere, it is a 20 amp circuit and I am running two forward lights and one rear facing light. In retrospect I wish that I had done two rear lights, the circuit could support four 55 watt lights. The rear light is plenty of light, but with an implement casting a shadow I don't have the light where I want it.

I also have the Artillian light shrouds, they are simple, cheap and stop the lights from blinding you.

 

[Gobblin Tom]

Mine are mounted on the top of my rops underneath... I wish mine were more of a flood instead of spot but they will work! I have one at the top off to my right side so when plowing I can see...

 

[GordNovo]

I've got an older 2520 and don't have the luxury of the larger alternator. In the past, with only a couple of lights rigged on the tractor, I could tell I was draining the battery during operation.

So I went to ebay and picked me up a 3-pack of 27W 2000 lumen LED flood lights for 150 bucks. I got em right from China (i'm in Canada. Shipments from American wholesalers cost $40, but shipping from China is FREE - go figure :confused2: ). I got two facing forward (on either side of the ROPs) and one dangles down from the top and faces backward.

When I'm out blowing snow on the long drive way at night, my wife gets complaints from the airport. Plus I'm no longer draining my battery!

One other key point to mention... the LEDs last about 10 times longer.

I highly recommend going this route!

Cheers,

Gord

 

[cast_and_blast]

I've got an older 2520 and don't have the luxury of the larger alternator. In the past, with only a couple of lights rigged on the tractor, I could tell I was draining the battery during operation.

So I went to ebay and picked me up a 3-pack of 27W 2000 lumen LED flood lights for 150 bucks. I got em right from China (i'm in Canada. Shipments from American wholesalers cost $40, but shipping from China is FREE - go figure :confused2: ). I got two facing forward (on either side of the ROPs) and one dangles down from the top and faces backward.

When I'm out blowing snow on the long drive way at night, my wife gets complaints from the airport. Plus I'm no longer draining my battery!

One other key point to mention... the LEDs last about 10 times longer.

I highly recommend going this route!

Cheers,

Gord

I went with 3 Maxxima LED's for my 2305 for the same reason - not enough alternator to power the lights I wanted. Love them so far and they are VERY, VERY bright. Plus, a 5 year warranty on them.

Scott

 

[XSKIER]

On my 1026r. Not the best solution, but yesterday morning I unplugged the headlights for some loader work. I let the fender mounted googley eye lights do all of the work. With out the glare from the bucket I could see better even with less light.

 

[XSKIER]

Rather than start a new thread, I'll resuscitate this one. Fitting, I installed a new rear work light last night in my unlit shed. There is a pair of wires (purple & black) on each side of the bottom of ROPS. they are live when the light switch is in the work light position.

Before:

After:

 

[Chex]

Rather than start a new thread, I'll resuscitate this one. Fitting, I installed a new rear work light last night in my unlit shed. There is a pair of wires (purple & black) on each side of the bottom of ROPS. they are live when the light switch is in the work light position.

Before:

After:

Do you still have a link for that light X?

 

[XSKIER]

http://www.broncoatv.com/Bronco_ATV/Electrical.html

 

[scollins]

For an LX188, I needed to know how many 50-amp flood lights a 12-volt 15-amp alternator on the Kawasaki engine could supply before I ran down the battery.

I used an online conversion, similar to this one"
Volts/Amps/Watts Converter | Supercircuits

One thing I have found out is that the little crimp butt-connectors just do not hold that well. They were especially troublesome where I wanted to wire a 12-gauge and 16-gauge (on the light) wire together. A mechanic friend of mine showed me this little torch that he uses for soldering wires. He always used the solder type connectors with this little "pen torch"



I pull the plastic off the connectors and slide a piece of shrink-wrap over one end, crimp the connector on, and use the little butane torch (1/4 to 1/2 inch blue flame) to melt some radio shack silver solder in there. Once it cools, I give a slight tug on the wire to ensure that it is a solid connection and wont pull out. Then, I slide the shrink wrap up and use a Makita heat gun. The only problem was when I did not leave enough slack in the wires under the hood and pulled them loose when I closed down the hood.

I went battery-direct, with in-line blade fuse and heavy-duty 12-volt switches on the dash. I fasten the wires out of the way under the deck for the rear light and sprayer connector with plastic wire grommets. Holes in sheet metal have the rubber grommets, which do not always seem to stay in place.

I ran two 50 watt flood lights to the front and one to the rear. There is also a switched 2-wire trailer connector for the 12-volt trailer sprayer.

The difference between the "factory" lights in the hood and the flood lights is like car headlights verses holding 2 candles out front.



SC