Removing Alternator on 350 Chev

[downslope]

I need to remove the alternator on a 1973 Chev 1-ton with 350 V8. It's the original and been on there for 39 years.

I'm concerned about the bolt that passes thru the alternator, bracket and spacer and screws into a boss on the cylinder head. I gave it a pretty good tug with a 1/2" ratchet and it doesn't budge. I really don't want to snap it off in the head if I can help it. I've sprayed some PB Blaster on it and tapped on the bolt head a little but the blaster may not even be getting in to the threads.

Do these things often break off? Would it help to run the engine up to operating temperature? Any advice appreciated.

 

[5030]

Bust it off and trundle to the hardware store and get a new one.

It's a GM. It's used to that kind of care.......

 

[duckhunter27]

It may help some to warm up engine and no i would'nt say that that bolts breaks off very often. you might try a impact wrench on it some time if you can hit the bolt hard and fast with a impact they will come right out and not break. Good luck.

 

[timswi]

It may help some to warm up engine and no i would'nt say that that bolts breaks off very often. you might try a impact wrench on it some time if you can hit the bolt hard and fast with a impact they will come right out and not break. Good luck.

Agree

 

[Stimw]

Warm it up, try tightening first then loosen.
Is it frozen in the head or in the aluminum Alt frame? If frame I would try hitting the frame where the bolt goes through with a flat punch in an air chisel. Or heat the frame and lub.

 

[downslope]

Warm it up, try tightening first then loosen.
Is it frozen in the head or in the aluminum Alt frame? If frame I would try hitting the frame where the bolt goes through with a flat punch in an air chisel. Or heat the frame and lub.

I am thinking it is frozen in the head. If I loosen the adjusting bracket and take a 2x3 to pry the alternator I can get it to move and get the belt on or off. Because it's frozen in the head is why I'm afraid it will snap off there and then I will have to deal with getting the broken piece out which won't be easy. I did try tightening first, but I didn't have the engine warmed up.

If there's enough room I will try the impact wrench if nothing else works.

 

[clemsonfor]

Yea i would go get it to operating temp then dog the **** out of it around the bock a few times then once you get to your drive or shop rev it several times to get the head temps maxed out. I would put trans fluid on it prior to this if you can keep it off manifold. Then i would tap it once you got thru driving it then try the impact, i bet it comes out.

 

[QueBota]

Impact gun on low setting for a while after repeated soaks with Kroil (insert your favorite product here) and heating gently with a torch. The impact gun on a lower setting will vibrate the cr ap out of the bolt and fitting, should come loose. Patience is the key.

Dave

 

[powerstroke444e]

Take all the wires or only one wire if its original off and try spinning alt loose its usually not frooze in the head. Of it is a little heat on the head will help.

 

[5030]

if it don't come off, replace it with a Ford.................

 

[murphy1244]

Impact gun on low setting for a while after repeated soaks with Kroil (insert your favorite product here) and heating gently with a torch. The impact gun on a lower setting will vibrate the cr ap out of the bolt and fitting, should come loose. Patience is the key.

Dave

He is right, Keep soaking that sucker with your favorite juice and tap at it . Give it a couple of days.Its been there for 39 years so be patient..

 

[workinallthetime]

its probably a 3/8th x 16 thread. i always used gm heat riser penitrant on things like that. warming up the thread area will help, all the ideas are good ones except the "ford" one. if its not a rush deal take your time and keep spraying it over a few days.If this is one that bolts the alt on then its probably pretty long and you are going to get a twisting effect if you lean on it with a break over. If the engine has aluminim heads then you are fighting the great corosion that happens when that steel bolt hangs out in alum. for a long period of time.
If this is one of the long bolts one thing i have done and you may be able to do also is clamp a set of vice grips to the shaft of the bolt and your break over on the head. pull on both at the same time and you should be moving on to better things.

 

[Soundguy]

ditto on an impact wrench. and do try to loosent he alt and get some penetrant into the thread area.. when reinstalling.. consider neverseize...

 

[RobertN]

What about running a tap in that hole before reassembly? Maybe a die over the bolt threads...

ditto on an impact wrench. and do try to loosent he alt and get some penetrant into the thread area.. when reinstalling.. consider neverseize...

 

[Soundguy]

good point. won't hurt to chase out any oxidation on the internal threads.

there is also an electrolysis paste you can use to prevent the corrosion with dissimilar metals..e tc.

 

[Willl]

used gm heat riser penitrant on things like that.

Hmmm, wonder if this stuff would work on rusted tight exhaust manifold bolts on an old Ford truck ?

 

[downslope]

Lots of good suggestions here, thanks. I've had to deal with a leaking rear tractor tire with fluid fill so have been away from the truck, maybe a good thing so it can soak a little more. Clylinder head is cast iron, no aluminum.

 

[Soundguy]

Hmmm, wonder if this stuff would work on rusted tight exhaust manifold bolts on an old Ford truck ?

probably REAL good.

 

[redharley]

been wrenching on chevy's for a lot of years most likly your alternator has a steel bracket behind the alum. alternator case, that is most likly your trouble spot [lack of anti-seize on bolt] soak it up as said also some heat wouldn't hurt [ small torch]on steel bracket&alternator . I've had these not come loose unless you cut up bracket with cut off wheel get alternator and bracket out of the way bolt will usally come out of head. good luck.

 

[om21braz]

I've sprayed some PB Blaster on it and tapped on the bolt head a little but the blaster may not even be getting in to the threads.

The PB Blaster is good stuff. I was able to take numerous bolts out of a 70's rusted up MG without snapping off a single one - a little heat applied to some too. There's probably others as good, but PB is a big step up from the the old standard WD-40.