Did I buy the wrong generator?

[Gizmo2]

We should be able to get volume discounts.

I usually wind up with at least two of just about everything I need. Nothing is ever at the same place you are when you need it, is it?

That's me alright. But my wife drew the line when I wanted the second tractor. I even told her the second tractor could be hers (sort of).

 

[TripleR]

That's me alright. But my wife drew the line when I wanted the second tractor. I even told her the second tractor could be hers (sort of).

We were down at the barn talking to a friend who farms one of our properties when he commented on how nice our newly acquired L5030 HSTC was when my wife first referred to "her" BX2660.:thumbsup:

She runs the 5030 when I am on the 8540, but for now seems content to let me believe the 5030 is mine.:laughing:

 

[TimberXX]

A second tractor would never fly with mt wife. I sold her on it because the attachments reduce the total amount of single purpose equipment.

 

[oldboyscout]

The advice I see here about fuel shutoff and maintenance is very good. Only run hi octane with an additive in it. Run it dry every time you use it. keep the oil clean and consider synthetic.
I think that sort of stuff is more important than who made the engine.

 

[JB4310]

The advice I see here about fuel shutoff and maintenance is very good. Only run hi octane with an additive in it. Run it dry every time you use it. keep the oil clean and consider synthetic.
I think that sort of stuff is more important than who made the engine.

OK we need a poll. Who runs carb empty and who leaves it full?

I'm surprised, it sounds like from the responses most of you are running them dry. I've had my share of carb troubles, but I leave them full of treated fuel. Take a machine out of storage and dump whatever fuel is in the tank, put fresh fuel in and start it.

Sometimes I still have carb issues but nothing ever fails to start.

I've been doing it this way for ever, so I'm not going to be easy to convince otherwise, but I'm not so stubborn as to not learn new ways.

Is there truly a "right" answer ? What are the manufacturers saying ?

JB

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Only run hi octane with an additive in it.

Old Boyscout,

#1 - Why burn Premium? If the engine is designed for 87 octane, then as far as I know there is no advantage to higher octane.

#2 - What additive to the fuel & Why? Stabil? (I've NEVER used it and never had a problem).

I'm really just curious, but I was trained as an engineer and I do nothing without solid reasoning and multiple references to back it up.

Thanks,
David

 

[oldboyscout]

yeah I've always thought that running them dry would definitely leave a coat of shellac on everything. I've just been following some collected wisdom about it.
Maybe running them dry is more about getting rid of the fuel so you don't use stale fuel.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

OK we need a poll. Who runs carb empty and who leaves it full?

Is there truly a "right" answer? What are the manufacturers saying ?

JB

JB,

My JD LX266 I never use additive, and I never run the carbs dry. I park it in Oct, and it starts up again every spring.

My JD STX30 with a Kohler 12.5 engine (I'm sure that is not original engine) has some crazy carb issue that floods the motor completely and I MUST shut off the gas and let it run dry.

My Poulan leafblower had not run in maybe 2 or 3 years and it started right up after a few pulls, and the gas in that can is also over 1 year old.

My Stihl Farmboss I was specifically told to run dry by the dealer, but I think it may have gas in it from when LstInThot borrowed it to use on my walnut trees a couple weeks ago (I think I will try to start it and see if I can run it dry).

My Toro walk behind I never do anything to. it starts every spring.

My buddies generator he told me to run the carb dry.

That is my personal experience.

Be well,
David

 

[JB4310]

JB,

My JD LX266 I never use additive, and I never run the carbs dry. I park it in Oct, and it starts up again every spring.

My JD STX30 with a Kohler 12.5 engine (I'm sure that is not original engine) has some crazy carb issue that floods the motor completely and I MUST shut off the gas and let it run dry.

My Poulan leafblower had not run in maybe 2 or 3 years and it started right up after a few pulls, and the gas in that can is also over 1 year old.

My Stihl Farmboss I was specifically told to run dry by the dealer, but I think it may have gas in it from when LstInThot borrowed it to use on my walnut trees a couple weeks ago (I think I will try to start it and see if I can run it dry).

My Toro walk behind I never do anything to. it starts every spring.

My buddies generator he told me to run the carb dry.

That is my personal experience.

Be well,
David

The 2 strokes are not an issue, the fuel will go bad, but never had the carb problems like with the 4 strokes.
Not sure if that's due to the oil in the fuel or the carbs simpler design ??

Stabil is the standard fuel additive, for better or worse, it's definitely not a cure all. I would say you have been pretty lucky with your lack of carb/ fuel related issues with your equipment, especially using no additive/ stabiliser.

Not sure why we would treat a gennys carb different than any other stored power equipment.

JB

 

[IslandTractor]

yeah I've always thought that running them dry would definitely leave a coat of shellac on everything. I've just been following some collected wisdom about it.
Maybe running them dry is more about getting rid of the fuel so you don't use stale fuel.

I think the exact opposite is true. When you leave fuel in the carburetor it will eventually evaporate leaving behind the "solids" which we call shellac or whatever gums up the carb jets.

FWIW, I am in the shut off fuel and let it run to clear the carb before long term storage. I also use regular gas with Stabil and recycle one year old fuel into my car (well diluted).

 

[oldboyscout]

How long does it take for a full carb to completely evaporate?

 

[JB4310]

How long does it take for a full carb to completely evaporate?

Good question, and I don't think it would have to completely evaporate before deposits started forming.

I believe that is how stabil works, I think I read it creates a barrier on the surface to prevent the evaporation of important ingredients ??

Was thinking to my self, since I'm in the camp of leaving the carbs full of treated fuel, it might be wise to crack the valve once in a while to replenish the bowl with fuel, between the the maintenance intervals ???

JB

 

[JRobyn]

I have a 5500w genset with the Robin-Subaru. Have about 100-200 hours on it. Only testing time except for when I loaned it out to friends in LA after Katrina. It performs great, but has always been a bear to start. Almost always have to give it just a whiff of ether. I am in the "run it dry" camp.

 

[TimberXX]

Old Boyscout,

#1 - Why burn Premium? If the engine is designed for 87 octane, then as far as I know there is no advantage to higher octane.

#2 - What additive to the fuel & Why? Stabil? (I've NEVER used it and never had a problem).

I'm really just curious, but I was trained as an engineer and I do nothing without solid reasoning and multiple references to back it up.

Thanks,
David

It is partially a regional thing. With ethanol in the gas, gummed up carbs are common. I have alot of experiance with gummed up carbs, and have rebuolt quite a few.

As far as octane, its a measurement how clean the fuel burns along with other criteria). I agree, its not needed unless called out by a manufacturer.

 

[Mickey_Fx]

Like most long threads, this one has somewhat gone OT but lots of good comments.

Was surprised to read the negative comments about the Subaru Robins. Have read a lot of reviews from owners of these engines and this is the first ones I've read that were negative. Don't know if all are directed towards the newer OHC designs. I've had one for at least 6 yrs and have to say it is the best small engine I've ever owned. Unlike some small engines, no internal plastic parts in the valve train. Like one other poster said, always starts on the first or second pull. I'd always make this choice if the comp was a B&S. Do admit I'm not a big fan if B&S even though the one I have has served me well for nearly 30 yrs. The warranty, unlike some mfgrs, includes consumers AND commercial duty.

Have a background & experience very sim to MossyflowerWoods and question a few comments made. Never any real issues with todays fuels even though about half the small engines I have sit over winter with fuel in the carb.

Octane is a measurement of a fuel's burning characteristic and the reference fuel is iso-octane with has a rating of 100. See this ref for some info. 2,2,4-Trimethylpentane - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Never have seen it used in ref to detergent properties of gasoline.

 

[Pilot]

According to our fuel expert at the Experimental Aircraft Association, how fast fuel goes bad depends on where you live. You can store fuel longer in cooler, drier climates: if you live in Florida, don't store it more than about 3 months, northern states are good for 6 months or so.

 

[Gizmo2]

How long does it take for a full carb to completely evaporate?

:laughing::laughing: What ever it is.....I am always too late to find out.
But than again it is always easier to pull a completely dry carb off than one that is full of gas.:confused2::confused2::confused2:

 

[whiskywizard]

Did I buy the wrong generator?

I think so. I'm really not a big fan of Briggs & Stratton engines. Too many low-grade parts, and ooooooold technology.

 

[whiskywizard]

I think the exact opposite is true. When you leave fuel in the carburetor it will eventually evaporate leaving behind the "solids" which we call shellac or whatever gums up the carb jets.

FWIW, I am in the shut off fuel and let it run to clear the carb before long term storage. I also use regular gas with Stabil and recycle one year old fuel into my car (well diluted).

+1

Especially true with pre-mix 2-strokes.

 

[TimberXX]

To each their own. For a long time I only owned Briggs products, and they have been very good to me.