Hydraulic Chatter Deere 5083e

[AGGIE00]

With only 350hrs on the clock the hydraulic system has become sluggish and developed a chatter when using the mid and rear svc, and three pt. No problems with the steering. It all started when I broke one of the large metal lines that run to the mids and dumped almost all the oil. Replaced the line and it seems like the problem has progressively gotten worse since then.

Second issue is with the bucket tilt. When I go to backdrag I get terrible slop in the hydraulics that takes forever to tighten up. It's like the oil disappears from behind the piston when not under pressure.

 

[J_J]

Put a hyd gage in your system and monitor the pressure and let us know what you see.

 

[JD5210]

It would appear you are getting air into the system. Along with replacing the hydraulic line did you put in new o-rings? If you used the old ones, I would suggest getting new ones. I would also give the tractor a going over again and make sure something else did not come lose. Also did you do any other maintenance to the tractor, while repairing the line? If you replaced the filter that is another place to check were you are getting air into the system.

On the bucket tilt, push the joystick all the way to the right, so it goes into regen. This should push all the air out of the line and fill the cylinder. I am guessing you raised and lowered the loader and curled the bucket several times after the repair to push any air out. Also disconnect and reconnect the loader hydraulic quick attach often it looks like they are good, but they are not.

Does it sound like the 田hatter is coming from the hydraulic pump, if yes. I would suggest you figure out what is wrong, before doing damage to the pump.

 

[J_J]

Could be caused by emulsified fluid/water, air, different fluid used other than original.

Are you going into regen when trying to drag.?


Excerpts.

Chatter (hydraulic System Malfunction)

A type of rapid vibration of a hydraulic pump caused by the pump taking in some air along with the hydraulic fluid.

 

[cowski]

i have seen that exact problem in john deere 5 series tractors.it turned out to be the wrong kind of hydraulic fluid.it does not have to be jd but it has to be the newer type. if you run it long enough the pump life will be shortened.when you change the fluid always clean the screen . it can be accessed from the back .right above the draw bar.

 

[AGGIE00]

I've put 30 or so hours on it since the repair and no I didn't change the o-rings. If the o-ring would be damaged enough to allow a vacuum, then it would be spewing oil under the high pressure. I didn't mess with the filter either. I used Deere fluid, so that shouldn't be the issue. I'll check the screen, but with so few hours on the machine I can't believe it to be clogged. I guess it's time to call Deere and find out how to bleed the system. I wish I had the money to trade it in on a M-series.

 

[cowski]

did you get the newest grade of jd fluid.they still sell the old grade too.

 

[AGGIE00]

did you get the newest grade of jd fluid.they still sell the old grade too.

Don't know, had an employee pick it up and fix what he tore up. Not that I haven't ever broken anything.

 

[JD5210]

I looked at the manual online and even after replacing the hydraulic filter and fluid, there is no mention about bleeding. I am sure you have noted this as well. Which hydraulic line did you break, was it on the suction side or the pressure side? Ie before or after the pump. Just to try and rule out things, have you disconnected the loader and tired it. How long did you run the tractor with little to no hydraulic fluid in it?
While my tractor (5210) is older than yours, I replaced the fluid and filter at 400 hours. Must admit I was surprised how many metal pieces were on the pickup screen.
JD parts shows a temperature sensor on the hydraulic line, but I found no mention of it in the operators manual. If an indicator exists does it show the fluid is hot.

 

[AGGIE00]

So I called the service manager this morning and had bad news. He said the system will prime itself and no need for bleeding, so not the problem. He then said that he is almost certain the pump is damaged and will need replacing. He also said I should find some aluminum in the screen if this is the case. So now we head down to drop a grand on a new pump. Merry Christmas to me.

 

[J_J]

Have you considered taking it to a hyd shop for testing? They can tell you the volume and pressure the pump is capable of producing.

Have you put a hyd gage in the system and checked the pressure.

Although the cyl will self bleed, if you hae a suction leak, you are adding air every time the pump is running.

Does the fluid in the tank have bubbles in it, and do they go away over time.

If the fluid is clear, start the tractor and monitor the tank for any new bubbles. If there is a suction leak, you should see them appear. A flash light will help some.

What did the filter screen look like? Small metal flakes indicates some wear is going on, but did they come from the pump?

 

[AGGIE00]

Have you considered taking it to a hyd shop for testing? They can tell you the volume and pressure the pump is capable of producing.

Have you put a hyd gage in the system and checked the pressure.

Although the cyl will self bleed, if you hae a suction leak, you are adding air every time the pump is running.

Does the fluid in the tank have bubbles in it, and do they go away over time.

If the fluid is clear, start the tractor and monitor the tank for any new bubbles. If there is a suction leak, you should see them appear. A flash light will help some.

What did the filter screen look like? Small metal flakes indicates some wear is going on, but did they come from the pump?

It can't be a leak between the pump and tank, since no damage was ever done there. The broken line is on the pressure side of the pump, which almost all the plumbing is. As far as tank goes, the transmission acts as the reservoir and there is no way to look in there. I haven't pulled the screen yet, but plan to when I get home from work.

Now that I suppose I need to buy a pump, my wheels are turning as to whether or not I can put on a larger pump. The M-series has quite a bit more hydraulic flow and that would be nice. That is assuming the pump on the M-series is mounted in the same location and way my current one is.

 

[oldnslo]

It can't be a leak between the pump and tank, since no damage was ever done there. The broken line is on the pressure side of the pump, which almost all the plumbing is. As far as tank goes, the transmission acts as the reservoir and there is no way to look in there. I haven't pulled the screen yet, but plan to when I get home from work.

Now that I suppose I need to buy a pump, my wheels are turning as to whether or not I can put on a larger pump. The M-series has quite a bit more hydraulic flow and that would be nice. That is assuming the pump on the M-series is mounted in the same location and way my current one is.

In looking at the parts breakdown it appears that these are simple gear pumps so I wouldn't condemn them just yet.

I agree with JJ that you should perform some diagnostic tests or have them performed to isolate your problem.

Not sure what your capabilities are but at a minimum you need to have a flow Vs pressure test on the pumps. This test needs to be performed by removing the pressure line to your SCV, (the line that was replaced) and replacing that with a flow and pressure kit. This will provide you with information on what your pump is doing Vs valves down stream.

As far as going with larger pumps, will the rest of the system components handle higher flow?

Roy

 

[AGGIE00]

It doesn't explain the sluggish hydraulics, but I figured out the vibration noise. A week ago when I straightened out the remaining lines and put the new clip on, I must have made two of the metal lines touch. Pulled them apart a little bit and the noise is gone. Now to remove the screen. Wish I didn't have to lose all the high dollar fluid doing so.

 

[cowski]

aim it down hill and you will not lose as much.

 

[AGGIE00]

aim it down hill and you will not lose as much.

Good idea.

 

[J_J]

Why not drain it into a clean bucket, and if it looks good, reuse it.

You still have not provided any pressure readings yet, and if you install a hyd gage, watch the gage when you hear the chatter, and other operations of the hyd system.

If you remove your pump a good hyd shop can test it for you for around $50. If th pump test good, then I would remove the relief valves from the FEL and inspect, clean, reset the relief pressure.

 

[temsan]

I'll try them.
thanks.

 

[J_J]

This guy temsan has a web site,dealing in hyd's, but is a foreign language, maybe Turkish.

 

[robertmburke]

I have a 2011 5083 with large loader, and 595 JD backhoe with 60 some hours on it now, I have owned it for 3 months, and it has spent 5+ weeks in the shop due to hydraulic issues. JD replaced every major component and it still has issues, hydrualic fluid is white because of the foam, growling when it gets warm. Initially it seemed as if they had identified and corrected by putting an anit-cavitation device on it.
We identified the problem the day it was delivered, dealer said it was probably air, run it. I continued to complain and they sent someone out to look at it, he agreed that the backhoe was not running correctly and he heard the growling. This is all before the 5 weeks in shop and parts swapping.
I have had it back for about 2 weeks and noticed an issue again, dealer came out yesterday and said it was 3 gallons low on fluid, but not sure where it went since we have not seen any major leaks. They filled it and the hydraulic fluid is still foamy and it still growls when it gets warm.
JD Corp has indicated verbally to dealer that they will cover 2 months payments and extend warrenty by 6 months. That is great, but machine is still not running right