Odd valve on log splitter

[Mechanos]

I just picked up a used 3pt log splitter. I was wanting a stand alone log splitter, but the price was right on this one. Anyway, it has a Prince valve on the splitter, but it appears to have just two positions... no detents. I'm not sure if this is even a log splitter valve. There is a serial number on the plate: 00589154, but there is no model number on the plate.

If no one here can help me figure out what valve this is, I may just have to wait until Monday and give Prince a call to see if they can tell me what I have.

The guy I bought if from said that he sold the tractor he used to use it on, but we did hook it up to another of his tractors so he could demo it for me. The tractor we hooked it up to was an Alis Chalmers D19. In order to get it to work, he would have to hold the DA remote valve on his tractor down and when I operated the valve on the splitter the ram would extend. He would then have to hold the remote valve in the other direction and when the splitter valve was operated, the ram would retract. Seems very strange to me. I'm thinking I may just have to pick up a new splitter valve for this thing.

 

[J_J]

How about some pictures. It could be a good valve. The remotes have to be activated to supply the log splitter, but the remote would stay in the same position for both cycles.

If the splitter valve does not have detent, you can still use it, but will have to hold the lever for the complete cycle. A new log splitter valve is only about $69.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-1262&catname=hydraulic

 

[Mechanos]

I'll get some better pictures tomorrow... but it looks like pretty much any other Prince monoblock valve. What I find weird is that it only had two positions... the "neutral" position when no input is applied to the lever and one other position when input is applied to the lever. The lever only moves one direction and spring returns to the original position. I don't see how this could even activate a DA cylinder.

Here's a crappy picture for now:

 

[glastron23]

looks like a 2500 series mono block all right, on the opposite end of the handle there is a spring and retainer bolt, check to see if these are still in place? check the detent balls also, they may be jammed.

 

[165masseyky]

I'll get some better pictures tomorrow... but it looks like pretty much any other Prince monoblock valve. What I find weird is that it only had two positions... the "neutral" position when no input is applied to the lever and one other position when input is applied to the lever. The lever only moves one direction and spring returns to the original position. I don't see how this could even activate a DA cylinder.

Here's a crappy picture for now:

View attachment 240246

That could be a hydraulic motor control valve for something like a auger or conveyor but with only on direction of flow can really see it used for that either because of safety.Perhaps something is restricting the valve from moving in the other direction? Spring broken, spool damaged or foreign material?I can't see anyone using a valve like that for a splitter unless nothing else was available. I think i would just buy a new valve. Oh and if its for a tractor splitter and you have low gpm hydraulics I can strongly suggest the Prince LSR 3060 will make extend super fast and has retract detent.:thumbsup:

 

[triptester]

Your valve appears to be a Prince LS 3000 which has detent positions and is for a double acting cylinder. The valve may be damaged if it does not move in both directions.

http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/products/valves/catalog/ValvesLsRd25.pdf

 

[J_J]

If you have the skill, you can remove the detent section, inspect clean and replace bad or rusty parts.

You will need to set the detent pressure and the valve relief pressure.

The detent return to center pressure varies with the model of valve you have.

Does the lever spring back to center?


The spool should move past the spring center position, and if it does, you need to push the lever more/harder to set the detent..

Here is an in-expensive $61 valve that should work.

Surplus Center - 1 SPOOL 25 GPM LOG SPLITTER VALVE W/AUTO DETENT

 

[Mechanos]

If you have the skill, you can remove the detent section, inspect clean and replace bad or rusty parts.

You will need to set the detent pressure and the valve relief pressure.

The detent return to center pressure varies with the model of valve you have.

Does the lever spring back to center?


The spool should move past the spring center position, and if it does, you need to push the lever more/harder to set the detent..

Here is an in-expensive $61 valve that should work.

Surplus Center - 1 SPOOL 25 GPM LOG SPLITTER VALVE W/AUTO DETENT

That's exactly what I intended to do. I put a wrench on the detent adjuster jam nut and with very little effort... snap... the detent adjuster screw twisted in two. It was so full of corrosion and crap that the adjuster screw and the spring inside it have become one. I unscrewed the detent cartrige out of the valve only to find the detent sleeve and piston are stuck in the bore and will not come out. Those parts have to come out before the spool can be removed so that's as far as I got. At this point I don't know how much more effort I'm going to put into this valve... I've got a lot of wood that I need to split and just don't have the time jack around with this valve. I think the most expeditious thing to do now is just replace the valve.

The Prince LSR-3060 mentioned earlier is a very temping choice. I'm assuming it achieves it's rapid extend from a 4th position that is a regenerative mode like the "fast dump" regenerative feature on many loader valves. I've found one on-line for $87.

Here's some more pics of the valve as promised:

 

[triptester]

Read the LSR 3060 info. It is to be used with single pumps of 4 gpm or less only.

 

[Leejohn]

Where is Roosterville, MO at?

 

[Mechanos]

North of KC

 

[J_J]

I believe you already have about 7.2 GPM and that should work a regular log splitter plenty fast.

If you use the LSR-3060, it may build up more heat than you want.

 

[Mechanos]

If I understand it correctly.... I have a 7.2GPM implement pump, but the hydraulic schematic shows that it runs through a 70%/30% flow divider sending 30% of the flow to the steering circuit and then onto the PTO clutch. So, if my line of reasoning is correct, I would have 5GPM running through the rear auxililary circuit. Of course those flow numbers are at full engine speed. I don't intend to run the engine at full speed while using the splitter.

Am I way off base here???

 

[J_J]

You could run the engine at a lower rpm and obtain the 4 GPM flow for the LSR valve.

 

[Mechanos]

I got a call into Prince for techincal info on the LSR-3060. The available info for this valve is less than stellar and there are a couple of questions that I have that need clearing up.

 

[J_J]

What did you find out that was negative about the valve, other than it was designed for low GPM.

Most people that have used it are satisfied so far. Perhaps there are problems that we don't know about.

 

[Mechanos]

What did you find out that was negative about the valve, other than it was designed for low GPM.

Most people that have used it are satisfied so far. Perhaps there are problems that we don't know about.

Just wanted to clear up the flow rate issue and find out for sure just what this valve can handle. The other issue... my current (broken) valve has 3/4" inlet/outlet ports and 1/2" work ports. The LSR-3060-3 is only offered with 1/2" inlet/outlet ports and 3/4" work ports. That would take some extra fittings and such to get my current hoses to fit up with the 3060. Maybe the extra expense of a few fittings is worth it in the long run to have the rapid extend.

According to Prince... 4 GPM is pretty much the max flow rate they recommend putting through the valve. This is due to the regen circuit used for rapid extend. The ports on this valve are pretty much the same as the LS-3000 series valve and can handle about 25GPM. Since the regen ratio is about 6:1, 4GPM would yeild about 24GPM on the regen circuit. Anymore flow than that would just build heat and make a lot of noise. The valve would function just fine with higher input flow rates as long as you don't use the rapid extend regen curcuit.

 

[Mechanos]

What did you find out that was negative about the valve, other than it was designed for low GPM.

Most people that have used it are satisfied so far. Perhaps there are problems that we don't know about.

Just to be clear... I was saying the info available for the valve was less than stellar... not that the valve was less than stellar.

 

[J_J]

The heat build up thing was the only limiting factor that I saw that would limit the valve, and the valve should only be used with single stage hyd pumps.

The comparison with using a two stage log splitter pump with regular valve, and a single stage pump and the LSR valve, the cycle times are about the same.

It is only about $30 more than the lowest price log splitter valve.

The main fact is that it saves a little time for those that want to save time.

 

[Mechanos]

Yeah... I'm still waffling back and forth about which valve to get. On one hand, the LSR would be nice in my current configuration using my tractor's hydraulics.

On the other hand, I would really like to have a stand alone unit. I have a 5hp side-shaft engine and a tank already and would just need to purchase a pump. If I buy a pump, it would be a two-stage pump. The LSR is not the right choice for that setup. Now, it could be used as long as the operator understood the system and did not try to engage the rapid extend regen position.

So, if I plan to make the conversion in the future, I'm leaning toward just buying a standard valve.

Decisions.... decisions....