How much tractor is enough?

[JDTank]

Good day all.

I am completely stumped between 2 candidates, a 2520, or a 3520 John Deere. Here is my property situation.

The property is 5 acres, but not all of those need to be maintained. We have a small 4 stall barn, riding arena, 3 paddocks, and a field for the horses using about half of this space. In this area, all the tractor needs to be used for is spreading pole shavings on the ground, cutting about 1 acre of grass with a rotary mower, and finish mowing about a quarter acre of grass.

The other half of the property, about 2 to 2.5 acres I am guessing, is where the house is. Finished grass mowing would be about 1 to 1.5 acres by the house. There is a small garden that needs tilling, maybe 50 feet by 75 feet.

Mostly I am trying to get a machine that will mow with a mid mount mower without getting to heavy. I live in British Columbia, a place known for one thing, rain. In the winter time, we don't see snow (in the lower mainland) just tons and tons of rain. For half the year, the ground here is very soft, and your feet sink 2 inches in the grass, nevermind a machine.

My concerns with the 2520 is this. I have a lot of brush to clean up in the future, we have a lot of trees that need trimming about twice a year. When we do trim, we are left with big piles of branches. I would love to clean these up with a grapple instead of by hand. The 2520 seems like to small of a machine to operate any kind of grapple with. Is this the case? Also, the other downside is, manure. Every 4 or 5 months we have a 4 foot high manure pile that needs to be moved. Obviously it is heavy, and I am not sure the 2520 is up to the task of tackling manure.

Also, how strong is the backhoe on the 2520? I do have some stumps that need to be removed, just small stumps, maybe 4 or 5 inches in diameter. Is the backhoe easy to remove so you can switch from a 3pt implement to the backhoe easily?

All in all, I only have about 3 acres I really need to worry about, and once the bigger projects are done, it will just be maintaining the property.

Thank you.

 

[fountain42]

JDTank I just traded my 2520 with a hoe for a 3520 cab. My property about the same, I can say the 3520 with loaded tires is heavy on wet lawn, found out this weekend wife was pissed, the hoe on the 2520 was plenty strong for small stumps an fun I"ll miss it. I didn't mow with it so no help there. as far as how strong the loader with grapple there are plenty of after market supplers out there that make small attachment. The only reason for my upgrade is snow in the face, not no more

 

[JDTank]

JDTank I just traded my 2520 with a hoe for a 3520 cab. My property about the same, I can say the 3520 with loaded tires is heavy on wet lawn, found out this weekend wife was pissed, the hoe on the 2520 was plenty strong for small stumps an fun I"ll miss it. I didn't mow with it so no help there. as far as how strong the loader with grapple there are plenty of after market supplers out there that make small attachment. The only reason for my upgrade is snow in the face, not no more

So if snow was not an issue you would have kept it?

My biggest concern is if I splurge and buy the 3520, I know I will only be able to use it on half of the property. I know if I buy the 2520, I can use it everywhere, it will just be a little slower in the half of the property that could handle a bigger machine.

It's a fair amount cheaper to get a 2520 as well, the backhoe is smaller = cheaper, 62 inch mid mount vs 72 = cheaper, 4 foot implements vs 5 foot = cheaper. As far as me staying dry, a cab is a very expensive option, I figure I will have to just buy one of those smaller plastic covers and mount it to the ROPS.

Just the extra price difference alone between the 2520 and 3520 would pay for a complete backhoe on the 2520.

I just worry that it isn't strong enough for lifting wet dirt or manure, or there isnt enough PTO HP to turn a rotary mower, I don't want the engine to bog down cutting 3 foot high grass, sometimes 4 feet high here.

 

[TNTractor1]

I have a 2520 but no rear attachments, just the 62" MMM and FEL, however I was thinking the ideal size rear attachment for the 2520 was 5 ft, not 4, but maybe I am mistaken.

 

[JDTank]

How do you like that 62'' MMM? Is it the drive over deck?

I notice they offer the drive over deck, but no drive over auto connect, I had assumed all drive overs were auto connects, I guess not.

 

[TNTractor1]

I am really enjoying the drive over deck. After the first time or two, it really became easy. The FEL is even more of a breeze to remove and reattach... got the hang of it right away and I had never even sat on a tractor before buying the 2520. The only issue (which now appears solved) I had with the MMM was a cotter pin that broke or came out twice. It was holding in a support bolt, so when the pin broke, the bolt slid out and one of the rear support bars holding up the deck dropped and got bent up. This happened twice, before the dealer finally got it repaired correctly (crossing fingers). I have 62 hours on the tractor and love it. The MMM cuts great. The 2520 was at my budget limit, otherwise I would have gotten the 2720 for the extra PTO power, but I have not missed it yet. Good luck

 

[TNTractor1]

I see now, that the 5hp per ft of attachment guideline means the ideal attachment size for the 2520 (20.5 PTO hp) would indeed be 4 ft. I think others have used 5 ft attachments as well though... maybe someone will confirm this.

 

[BethesdaEC]

I pull a 5 foot box blade no problem with my 2520 and JD also recommends a 5 ft rotary cutter. The 5 HP per foot is overall HP, not PTO.

 

[foz]

I have a 2520 and use 5 ft box blade, 5 Ft bush hog, go for the 5 ft implements, plenty of power.

 

[BethesdaEC]

One other thing, instead of a grapple consider using pallet forks. They are incredible light which leaves a lot of lifting power for the payload. I can lift about 1100 lbs with forks with my 2520.

 

[JDTank]

Personally, I can't see how there would be any power left over with a 5 ft rotary cutter. The grass here grows to about 3 to 4 feet high, and is fairly thick stuff. A 4 ft implement would guarantee there is power in reserve for those rough spots, not?

How about that 46 BH? That backhoe looks pretty weak in the photos, it isn't even a full boom on the end arm, just a square piece of metal. It needs to be capable of breaking tree roots and digging into clay. I have a need for 24 inch deep trenches for water/electrical lines in my future, so I need to know I can get 2 feet deep without any power or hydraulic availability issues.

 

[JDTank]

One other thing, instead of a grapple consider using pallets. They are incredible light which leaves a lot of lifting power for the payload. I can lift about 1100 lbs with forks with my 2520.

:shocked:
That's a big load for a 2520! Wow, I didn't know they were THAT capable! I need the grapple because it is all branches I am dealing with, small stuff, branches that are 1 inch thick and 6 to 10 feet in length, so I just need a way to move the piles efficiently, and hold onto a pile of debris at a time.

Could someone with a 2520 and a 46BH please post a video of how to remove, and install the backhoe please? I need frequent changes between the mid mount mower, 3 point implements, and the backhoe, likely something changed everyday or multiple times a day.

 

[BethesdaEC]

:shocked:
That's a big load for a 2520! Wow, I didn't know they were THAT capable! I need the grapple because it is all branches I am dealing with, small stuff, branches that are 1 inch thick and 6 to 10 feet in length, so I just need a way to move the piles efficiently, and hold onto a pile of debris at a time.

Could someone with a 2520 and a 46BH please post a video of how to remove, and install the backhoe please? I need frequent changes between the mid mount mower, 3 point implements, and the backhoe, likely something changed everyday or multiple times a day.

I don't have a video, but it is an exercise in frustration. I can get it on in about 5 minutes when the planets align, 10 minutes when they don't. You back up over the sub frame, shutdown and connect the hydro lines. Then use the backhoe and outriggers to lift and align the tractor to the two hooks and then drive in 2 pins. First time it took me about 20 minutes.

I can usually break 2 to 3 inches roots with a couple of tries and taking out a 12 inch stump can be done in 10 or 15 minutes. Make sure you leave 3 or 4 feet of stump so you can push it over with the loader when you are done.

I love my 2520, it is amazingly capable and small enough to get into places a larger tractor would have trouble.

 

[JDTank]

Very interesting, thank you.

I am trying to convince myself into the 3520, but this machine loaded up with a backhoe and a few implements, goes over $30,000 fairly fast. Being that I am in Canada, I don't have access to the better prices and financing you guys have in the U.S

I will never understand how a price tag of $8,000 for a backhoe is justified. It is 2 boom arms, some hydraulic hoses, fittings and rams, all slapped together. It is probably $500 worth of metal, which is pushing it at that, and the labor process to design it and produce it to final product is worth a few thousand if not $3,000. That should arrive one at about $3,000 to produce it, meeting in the middle somewhat. $5,000 in profit, PER BACKHOE attachment is more than profit, that is outright robbery and greed.

I love the 3520 size and power, but the price tag hurts. I purchased a brand new 2011 Silverado Extended cab, pretty loaded up, in July of this year, and I paid 35,000 for it brand new. Paying the same amount for a compact utility tractor seems, well...insane and stupid at the same time.

 

[93Mustang]

What's interesting about the cost comparison is that your tractor will be worth probably 50% or more of what you paid for or when the truck has depreciated to zero! Fwiw - I have a 3320 on 6 acres and love it and the extra loader capacity for the grapple ( i dont have a backhoe) but seeing what the neighbor can do with a 2000 B series Kubota and b65 backhoe, I think I could certainly get by just fine with the smaller chassis most of the time though the extra loader power and probably more importantly extra weight come in handy at times (but not on the lawn!). Good luck with the decision.

- Dana

 

[JDTank]

What's interesting about the cost comparison is that your tractor will be worth probably 50% or more of what you paid for or when the truck has depreciated to zero! Fwiw - I have a 3320 on 6 acres and love it and the extra loader capacity for the grapple ( i dont have a backhoe) but seeing what the neighbor can do with a 2000 B series Kubota and b65 backhoe, I think I could certainly get by just fine with the smaller chassis most of the time though the extra loader power and probably more importantly extra weight come in handy at times (but not on the lawn!). Good luck with the decision.

- Dana

No doubt there's truth in those words. The Silverado was my first brand new vehicle I have ever had, I figured, you can't take money with you, just once in my life I wanted to drive a fancy vehicle off the showroom floor and say that it is mine!

The profile of the 2520 is becoming very appealing. I do not have very many tight spots to worry about, and all of my ground is flat, I have no large hills or anything of the sort to contend with. There are 2 spots where brush, weed trees and blackberries have simply overgrown and I want those areas completely cleaned out, lay good soil and plant grass there. In these areas, the smaller size of the 2520 would be a definite plus.

What is the turning radius like on the 3x20 series vs the 2x20 series?

 

[big e]

I knocked back the woods around my house and pond a few years ago. I finally got rid of all the stumps this past weekend. 50 stumps in two days. Did it with a rented stump grinder. I don't think you need an expensive backhoe. And if you really need a hoe someday, rent it.
and
As for the grapple... can you grab twigs and sticks with that thing?
As for the manure, don't let it pile up... or make multiple trips.
As for the wet grass... a heavy tractor will rut up your yard.
Sounds like what you might need is a small tractor with a fel, a lawn mower, and a pair of work gloves.
I suggest to go small, and then go to the bank and deposit the money you saved.

 

[BethesdaEC]

I knocked back the woods around my house and pond a few years ago. I finally got rid of all the stumps this past weekend. 50 stumps in two days. Did it with a rented stump grinder. I don't think you need an expensive backhoe. And if you really need a hoe someday, rent it.
and
As for the grapple... can you grab twigs and sticks with that thing?
As for the manure, don't let it pile up... or make multiple trips.
As for the wet grass... a heavy tractor will rut up your yard.
Sounds like what you might need is a small tractor with a fel, a lawn mower, and a pair of work gloves.
I suggest to go small, and then go to the bank and deposit the money you saved.

Bank? No he should buy more attachments.

 

[LHS Inc]

As far as running on lawns I don't have a problem with my JD 3520 with R4's.

You just have to use good judgment as to when its solid enough to travel across.

I don't mow with mine, I have a zero turn for that. I'm talking about overseeding ,fertilizing,aerating and other landscaping jobs around the house.

If you're talking about the tractor and mmm being your only means of cutting grass then you might not be able to get on the grass when you could with a lighter zero turn mower.

I really like my 3520. Its very versatile in size and power.

 

[jenkinsph]

Sounds to me like a separate lawn mower and a small tractor would work the best for you. Mowing in an area with lots of rain means you need a light lawn mower and be able to pick the optimum time to cut.

Don't think I would buy a backhoe attachment for the few stumps you have to remove, rent one for a day or weekend or better yet make a list of things to do and have someone come in and knock it out in short order.

About the manure pile and 4ft tall grasses, once you have your own tractor there is no need to have this build up, keep the manure moved out and the grasses trimmed. Even a polycart to haul that small amount of manure would suffice when you think about it.

You can't do everything from the tractor seat but a tractor really helps. While I have a good assortment of tractors and equipment I still spend lots of time with hand tools. When trimming tree branches I stack them up then move them with forks most times. Sometimes I chip them on on the spot as I go, depends on the circumstances.

Sounds like a good zt lawn mower and a 2520 with fel and brush cutter would handle 90% of what you need to do. Bear in mind that once the place is cleaned up mowing will be the most common thing you do.