Crossover Relief Valve

[foggy1111]

I just bought my hydraulic cylinders and JD Quick Couplers for a FEL Meyer Plow project. I figure I should add a crossover relief valve while I'm at it.

I went to the Surplus Center site and found: Item # 9-4019-50-H - Prince Valve #DRV-4HH. 1/2 NPT 30 GPM 1500-3000 PSI HYD CUSHION VALVE. $67.95

I think this is the right stuff.....but it doesn't look like what I have seen in the pics here on TBN. I hope someone knowledgeable could confirm this valve is what I want. (Where is Kenny D when you need him? )

 

[kennyd]

Where is Kenny D when you need him?

You know where I am:thumbsup: You can come also:laughing:

That valve is perfect for your plow

 

[foggy1111]

LOL Right after posting this....I considered logging in "elsewhere". :laughing: Kenny D "crossed-over" from the dark side. :thumbsup: Thanks Kenny....I will order that valve.

 

[foggy1111]

I just got my plow back from being painted....and got my valve from the surplus center and got my hoses and cylinders mounted up tonight. I hope I got the valve installed properly??

....will be taking it "up north" to my tractor on Sunday and will post some pics of the plow mounted on the tractor.

 

[foggy1111]

One more pic....side view. Pretty happy with the outcome. The plow will be nice and close to the loader masts. Hard to get good pics in the garage.

 

[kennyd]

Looks good to me Foggy, I just responded to PM about how to plumb the x-over valves, here is the drawing: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Drawing/DR9-4019-50-H.pdf

 

[foggy1111]

Looks good to me Foggy, I just responded to PM about how to plumb the x-over valves, here is the drawing: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Drawing/DR9-4019-50-H.pdf

Thanks for the drawing. They don't furnish any info with the valve.....but there aren't too many ways to hook things up. I made a few ASSumptions.....and those have led me down the wrong path every now and again. :laughing:

I try to get things done right before taking my projects to my land. When I get there....most parts are hard to come by without a long drive. I'll find out if its right in a few days when I hook things up to the tractor. Thanks for the help Kenny!

 

[rayclar]

nice job foggy, im doing a plow right now for my kubota and would like to ask what width is your plow, did you use 4 inch channel for the main mount on the quick attach? thanks ray

 

[foggy1111]

nice job foggy, im doing a plow right now for my kubota and would like to ask what width is your plow, did you use 4 inch channel for the main mount on the quick attach? thanks ray

Ray.....I used 2x4 tube for the main frame....and those rear extending arms are made from 4" channel. The Plow is an ST80" Meyer plow. The plow pins are 12" behind the JD QA mounts to get the plow closer to the tractor. I think I am going to be happy with the outcome. Will mount the plow on Monday and take a few more pics of the finished product.

 

[rayclar]

Thanks foggy, the way i planned on building mine is exactly the way you did. When i saw your pic of your build it makes things easier for me. Yes please post more pics when you can. ray

 

[rayclar]

Foggy are you powering the angle cylinders from rear remotes? If so what diameter hose would you use?

 

[foggy1111]

Foggy are you powering the angle cylinders from rear remotes? If so what diameter hose would you use?

I will operate off my rear remotes.....but I have the JD hard-lines kit that runs to the front of the loader mast....and use these same lines for my grapple. I think these lines and quick couplers are the equivalent of 1/4" hose.

I use 1/4" hoses from there.....and that seems to do a good job on my grapple cylinder. I think you could go either 1/4 or 3/8" and get similar performance.....however I prefer the marginally slower operation the 1/4" lines afford. To me they are compact and allow more precision for operation.

(If you do go to the larger 3/8" hoses....and feel you want slower operation you could always add a flow restriction in the line.)

 

[PILOON]

Just a cautionary note.
The crossover valves will only protect the extended (fwd) corner of your blade as operationally the extended cylinder under shocks or strains dump the fluid over to the retracted cylinder.
Otherwise said, if pushing snow to the right or curb side and you hit the curb there will be no protection as that side is already retracted.
If plowing away from the right curb a you catch it, the plow blade will flip and that snow will end up on the right side.

 

[foggy1111]

Just a cautionary note.
The crossover valves will only protect the extended (fwd) corner of your blade as operationally the extended cylinder under shocks or strains dump the fluid over to the retracted cylinder.
Otherwise said, if pushing snow to the right or curb side and you hit the curb there will be no protection as that side is already retracted.
If plowing away from the right curb a you catch it, the plow blade will flip and that snow will end up on the right side.

Good point. Catching on the side which is angled away allows the plow to slip away more easily. I don't have curbs to contend with....but I have tree stumps and roots to hang-up on. That's one reason for the tube on the cutting edge....to provide floatation and to reduce catching the cutting edge on stuff.

As been said: "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure". :thumbsup: One would think that a floating plow with a round tube over the cutting edge, a spring-loaded trip-blade, and a crossover relief valve....that life is pretty much as good as it gets. Still, stuff jumps out to bite ya every now and again. :laughing:

 

[Mike_VT]

I recently just bought the same valve for a fisher plow that I converted, very similar build to yours except with a QA skid steer plate. Today just tried to install the hoses with the valve. I a running the hydraulics off a rear remote that is plummed up front with quick couplers. I have tried a bunch of different "plumbing" senarios with no luck at all.

From the illustration it seems that ports B and D should connect to the hydraulic plow cylinders and the A and C should go to the quick coupler (rear remote). When I set it up this way pressure builds and then hydro fluid releases from the quick couplers.

How did your plummbing set up work? thanks Mike

 

[kennyd]

I recently just bought the same valve for a fisher plow that I converted, very similar build to yours except with a QA skid steer plate. Today just tried to install the hoses with the valve. I a running the hydraulics off a rear remote that is plummed up front with quick couplers. I have tried a bunch of different "plumbing" senarios with no luck at all.

From the illustration it seems that ports B and D should connect to the hydraulic plow cylinders and the A and C should go to the quick coupler (rear remote). When I set it up this way pressure builds and then hydro fluid releases from the quick couplers.

How did your plummbing set up work? thanks Mike

Sounds like you have it hooked up correctly. Does your blade have two SA cylinders?

 

[Mike_VT]

Each plow cylinder has one port on the end so they are SA, maybe I have a faulty cushion valve? The tractor is new so I hooked up my grapple to make sure the rear remote valve was working properly and that worked perfectly. The grapple does not have any cushion valve just two SA cylinders that open and close.

The tractor is a kubota 4740 hstc.

 

[foggy1111]

Mike, IIRC mine is "plumbed" just like yours. I plan to put my plow on this morning.....and hopefully will report tonight on how it works. I plan to snap a few pics too.

 

[cttractor]

Wow! Nice job, Foggy.

This is an interesting project and similar to one I'm beginning (and wish I had more time to do during the summer when I don't need it for snow).
In my case, I plow snow with my bucket and use an angled rear blade for clean-up.
The blade can spin 360 degrees and is held in place by a sheer pin.
For my project, I'm adding hydraulic angling to the blade.

I'm currently working with a hydraulic engineer to see if we can find a slow-speed hydraulic motor to use rather than two SA cylinders -- he believes we can.
If true, I'll be able to maintain full positioning and continue to use the blade forwards or backwards at any angle.
<p>
I, too, will be adding a cross-port relief valve and won't have a problem if the retracted side hits something immovable, such as the curb mentioned in Piloon's important warning.
Of course, if we can't find a hydraulic motor that can handle this job, I'll have to use cylinders also.

Regardless, Foggy, you've done a good job and your setup looks great!

 

[Mike_VT]

I just spoke with a service tech at Prince and they told me that this valve will not work with SA cylinders. I explained the application as well as how I plumbed the valve and they verified that it would not work on the SA cylinders.

Let me know how your set-up turns out. I still not convinced that I have it right? Thanks. Mike