Woodsplitter Build (Timberwolf clone)

[Scooby074]

Figured id put up a thread on my splitter build (yes another splitter thread )

Im cloning a Timberwolf TW-5 with a few modifications to improve it,complete with log lift, wedge lift and table grate. Cycle time should be under 10s. As im 6'1 Table height is around 32" to try and save my back. The Timberwolf is around $7000-7500, i figure i should have this finished for less than half that.

Major specs are as follows:
Motor: Robin Subaru 14Hp OHC.
Pump: Barnes 22 GPM 2 stage. (not purchased yet)
Valves: Prince Hydraulic , Auto cycle valve and 2 spool valve.
Cylinder :5x24 Princess Auto Welded Cylinder. Made in Canada
I Beam :W6x25
Tank: 15 Gallon with filter

Im trying to build this splitter with all North american sourced parts (other than engine, which is Japanese) I could have likely saved $500+ by buying Chinese, but i try to support NA, Japan and European companies over China.

A few pics so far to get it started. Sorry,not that many yet, camera battery died after these were taken. Ill have some more, better pictures tomorrow.

What $90 of new steel looks like :confused2:

Attached is a quick rendering of the Ibeam section minus the "accessories"

 

[jmanatee2]

This is off topic but I see these nice 3d drawings of project you are doing what do you use for software?

 

[Scooby074]

This is off topic but I see these nice 3d drawings of project you are doing what do you use for software?

That was drawn in Solidworks which i fortunately have access to. I prefer Solidworks over AutoCad as it works the way i think.... Scary really considering how buggy SW is... That doesnt reflect well on my thought process does it?:laughing:

One advantage is it gives me the ability to check for interference and range of motion. In my model of the splitter on my computer, i can move the split cylinder in and out in real time to determine where my wedge should go for example. I could also move the wedge and log lift if i had drawn them. Its a great tool.

For a free option you can try Google Sketchup.

 

[Scooby074]

Capped the end of the beam. 6011 root with very, very old and wet 7018 cap. Cut out the cylinder mounting plates and gussets. Bored out 1 1/4" pin hole.

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Motor, cylinder and tank...$1900 :licking: . Yes i know im cheating by buying a tank, but it only ended up costing about $100 more than building it myself. If you ever had to grind out weld and chase leaks like ive had to do, its 100 well spent.....

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[Scooby074]

Capped the end of the beam. 6011 root with very, very old and wet 7018 cap. Cut out the cylinder mounting plates and gussets. Bored out 1 1/4" pin hole.

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Motor, cylinder,valve and tank...$1900 :licking: . Yes i know im cheating by buying a tank, but it only ended up costing about $100 more than building it myself. If you ever had to grind out weld and chase leaks like ive had to do, its 100 well spent.....

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[davygp38]

Nice job so far, keep posting..I love watching a build like this

 

[Scooby074]

Nice job so far, keep posting..I love watching a build like this

Will do. Its more about remembering to bring the camera to the shop

 

[Scooby074]

A few more pics.



Keeping the pin in place helps to keep the plate aligned when welding

Rod mounted showing welds to mount plate. Notice the old trailer jack. Was bent and had to cut out a section to straighten. Recycling at its finest There will be a piece of plate connecting the uprights before its finished

Sittin up on its wheels for the first time

32 2/4" off the floor for a comfortable work height

One last shot on its wheels

 

[Scooby074]

Worked on the push block and associated parts today.

Push Block finish welded

Mounted minus side guides

Retraction test.... OOPS Thats the problem with designing on a computer without having the parts to take dimensions off before hand. I had the extension length and the retracted length right... but the tube length wrong by about an inch. This caused the tube to hit the gusset.

A quick snip with the torch

Test run... Success!!!

I didnt like how i cut out most of the support of the gusset, so i added another piece of plate under the rod end to support both the sides and the face plate of the pusher

Side guide plates drilled and ready to be welded to the push plate.

Evidence of a good evening in the shop !!:thumbsup:

 

[ferguson123]

great job :thumbsup:

 

[Short Game]

Just the way you planned it. Looks good.

Now go back and destroy the evidence.

 

[Scooby074]

Making progress, i got the log lift and valve mounts done but forgot the camera.

Heres a mock up of the finished splitter to check how its going to fit together.

 

[Brushhill dave]

Mr. Keith has been a serious contributor on many projects round here too!

 

[Scooby074]

A couple pics of the finished splitter before primer. Sorry there are no interim shots as i forgot the camera most days.

Everything masked for painting.

Small parts primed

main section primed

Lesson for the day... ALWAYS make sure your paint cup is FIRMLY attached!!!

Only cheap primer, thankfully, but its still about $10 worth:mur:

 

[LanceH]

Looking good :thumbsup:

You've done a good job 'resembling' the high dollar timberwolf's. I really like the table grate and am curious to see how the slip-over wedge holds up.

I started building my diesel splitter and got some pointers from timberwolf, but made my own tweaks here and there. You even went as far as the cutout hole in the beam to move one of the hydraulic lines from side to side-I'm jealous cause I didnt catch that in mine!

But again, good job and keep that camera in the shop so you take some more pictures!

 

[Scooby074]

Its ORANGE, oh boy is it orange!!!!! 1/2 gallon of tremclad Bright Orange baby!!!!:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Assembled with motor,tank and cylinders, waiting for hoses

 

[Scooby074]

Mr. Keith has been a serious contributor on many projects round here too!

Me and Alexander go way back. Yes were on a first name basis:laughing:

Looking good :thumbsup:

You've done a good job 'resembling' the high dollar timberwolf's. I really like the table grate and am curious to see how the slip-over wedge holds up.

I started building my diesel splitter and got some pointers from timberwolf, but made my own tweaks here and there. You even went as far as the cutout hole in the beam to move one of the hydraulic lines from side to side-I'm jealous cause I didnt catch that in mine!

But again, good job and keep that camera in the shop so you take some more pictures!

Thanks. I try to take the cam, but i usually forget.

I think the wedge should hold up good. Its made from 1/2 plate and the tip is 3/4 wear plate.

There is one thing on the wedge i need to adjust. The wedge tip protudes about 1/2" into the stroke of the cylinder. I got to regrind the tip to make clearance. Not an issue if im watching the stroke , but i intend on having the split function on automatic.



As an aside, im having a discussion on the best way to reduce flow to the auxiliary circuits (wedge and log lift). Weve discussed everything from priority flow to restrictor orifices. If anyone has something to add to the discussion id love to hear it. I hope to have it plumbed tomorrow or monday.

The discussion thread is here:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/221328-reducing-flow-pressure-hydraulic-branch.html

 

[Scooby074]

Just the way you planned it. Looks good.

Now go back and destroy the evidence.

LOL i should:thumbsup:

I guess my shame will live on forever in cyberspace:laughing:

 

[Short Game]

LOL i should:thumbsup:

Seriously, nicely designed relief. Everything fits so well. Good job sir!

I made a mistake once. It was when I thought I was wrong, but I was right.

 

[handirifle]

LOL i should:thumbsup:

I guess my shame will live on forever in cyberspace:laughing:

Now I am no expert, by any measure, but it seems to me the added bracing wasn't needed. Not criticizing, the build looks fantastic, but isn't all the main pressure going from the flat vertical surface, to the pin holding it to the cylinder? It appears to me the flat bottom, is there only to serve as a guide to keep the piston on track.

The new brace seems only necessary, to support pressure from the vertical surface, to the horizontal surface. Is there that much pressure downward?

I just hate to see ya have to go through all the extra work, especially since you already did it.

Or am I missing something critical in the design?