tanmar ym1500 breathing ?

[billymc]

The YM1500 holds 4 quarts of engine oil. I use Rotella 15w-40 thanks to every body for the help i will convert the quarts to pints or ltrs as thats what we have here . o i ment heat of the glow plugs. for heating it dose not require any heat to start even after sitting a week. just fukk throttle and starts but when it gets cold i will start using the compression lifter. oil light gioes out staight away. o and any body got a idea of oil filter numbers over here we have cooper filters . thanks again every b body for the help here in scotland

 

[billymc]

The YM1500 holds 4 quarts of engine oil. I use Rotella 15w-40 in mine. I never have to add oil between changes.

o how did i messure the dip stick i marked where the oil was then took it out and put tape and messures between the lines .

 

[billymc]

further to my previous replys just back from hols ym1500 sat in shed around 14 days went to start followed you guys advise first checked oil again notice it had used a bit of oil more than i thought was showing around just over half on stick for about 3. 8 clock hours cutting with finishing mower noy heavy at pto speed. so wentto start decompressed turned it over till oil light went out then tryed to start but not enough in battery to fire it up? guy who sold me it told me the tractor had new battery and anything that was needing done was done . so i had to use my old mf 35 to jump it was not keen but started so left it run a bit then noticed it was smoking from breather pipe not long after start up at about 800rpm . so i sent a e mail to owner and told him about it . reply only to battery issue disconnect battery when sitting ? well my mf had sat 4 weeks ans started and never have had a tractor i needed to disconnect battery before? what do you guys think? i asked all the questions before buying like dose it breath use oil smoke charges ok plus otheres?

 

[winston1]

Sounds like something is drawing on the battery when down. Also sounds like engine might be pretty well worn. Here is a video just to demonstrate excess blowby. Is yours this bad? Yanmar 155D Crankcase Vent - YouTube

 

[billymc]

Sounds like something is drawing on the battery when down. Also sounds like engine might be pretty well worn. Here is a video just to demonstrate excess blowby. Is yours this bad? Yanmar 155D Crankcase Vent - YouTube

o no it dose not breath like that but dose smoke like a kettle coming to the boil only a few mins after start up you can see it plus for 3.8 c;ock hours of use it has used anout a quarter of the dip stick of oil?

 

[clemsonfor]

o no it dose not breath like that but dose smoke like a kettle coming to the boil only a few mins after start up you can see it plus for 3.8 c;ock hours of use it has used anout a quarter of the dip stick of oil?

Just put oil in it and dont worry to much about it. Sometimes older things have little drains on the battery, faulty switches are about it on this machine. I would just pull the cable, this is common on many older things. You can see if the battery is indeed new, look for a date code, it will either be something that makes sense lick Oct 11 or will say j/11 both mean oct 2011. letter correspont to the month of the number of that letter in order. Like a= jan b= feb and so on. Another thing is that "new" battery could be bad. I had a Panasonic battery in the Toyota when we bought it, it was just put in by carmax, but a few months later it was acting funny and would not start the car all the time. It was bad, by the date code it was 2 or 3 months old factory toyota battery. I just bought another as i did not wanna make the 3 hour round trip to the dealer.

 

[billymc]

Just put oil in it and dont worry to much about it. Sometimes older things have little drains on the battery, faulty switches are about it on this machine. I would just pull the cable, this is common on many older things. You can see if the battery is indeed new, look for a date code, it will either be something that makes sense lick Oct 11 or will say j/11 both mean oct 2011. letter correspont to the month of the number of that letter in order. Like a= jan b= feb and so on. Another thing is that "new" battery could be bad. I had a Panasonic battery in the Toyota when we bought it, it was just put in by carmax, but a few months later it was acting funny and would not start the car all the time. It was bad, by the date code it was 2 or 3 months old factory toyota battery. I just bought another as i did not wanna make the 3 hour round trip to the dealer.

thanks for the replys ok i got a manual with the ym1500 its ment to be as close to this model s one its for a ym 195d ? is that ok for reference to the ym1500? ok next the ym has no ts as the switch only goes one way on then start is it ment to be like that? i tryed to see if it would go left but it wont. next thing i see it has no sunb tank for radiator no pipe or bottle from bellow radiator cap to where the bottle is ment to be? dose it need this? sorry to have to ask but i had a old mitsi d1300 it had a pre heat it was well used when i got it but engine run like a clock no blowing or using oil and i worked it hard so first yanmar i have had im a bit dissapointed i know its not knew but when the add the guy stated it had had anything it needed done i thought i was getting a half descent tractor was not expecting it to be using asmuch oil in only a few clock hours work my old mf 35 uses less oil and breathes less and its 8000 hours on the clock and starts on the key prob drips more oil than it uses and breathes very little.

 

[clemsonfor]

This is one of those cases where you really cant trust what a seller tells you. I still dont think your in to bad a shape. If it worries you that much sell this one and buy another. Im not sure if your 1500 will have a bottle or not i would have to go to hoye and check it out. As far as dissapointment, everything can die an early death. You can run a toyota into the ground early or a ford or a yanmar. If he ran it with the wron filter in it to suck in dirt he could wear the cyl walls out early, or if he never changed the oil and it did not work as well, or the filter was so old it plugged and bypassed not filtering the oil (you would think bearings would take the brunt though).

Your model clearly dosent have TS if it wont turn left, although some models had a switch or something on the dash if i remember some posters right? You sure you got the correct filter on it, dont think that would cause it to use so much oil but just grabbing. Also if your burning that much i would think you would see a pretty good constant puff of blue while running it out of the stack.

Here's an idea, have you pulled the drain plug in the housing behind the engind before the trans? There should not be anything in there if it is plugged. Yours may have the plug removed adn its just a tapped hole into there. But my thinking is if the rear main is leaking it will go into that compartment, if the plug is in it will hold it all in the midsection. This is probably not likely but just wondering.

But i think you have 2 options to use it like it is or sell it adn just take a few hundred $ loss. Well three, you could pull the head and punch the pistons out and just rering it and put new berings on the rods as your in there. the current boat i own i asked if it had anyrot or anything, the guy said no, i took his word. That day or a few later i discovered some rot in the transome and water there. I was bummed, seemed not to matter to the integrity at that point, i put antifreeze in there which some on the net say to do to kill the rot fungus. I have just run it as is, 5 or so years latter its still the same, transome feels firm and motor dosent flex. I dont worry about it anymore, nothing has changed. I keep it under cover out of the water so its not getting anymore moisture in it i guess. My point is if i wanted to sell it i could and recoup most of what i paid and the rest i would call the price of fun for the last 5 years using it.

 

[California]

the ym has no ts as the switch only goes one way on then start is it ment to be like that? i tryed to see if it would go left but it wont. next thing i see it has no sub tank for radiator no pipe or bottle from bellow radiator cap to where the bottle is ment to be? dose it need this?

Some of the early ones had a pushbutton on the dash for Thermostart instead of the twist-left key. Did you find a TS module screwed into the intake manifold? It looks similar to a spark plug. You probably have one on your MF35. TS was an option for starting in a cold climate, they didn't all have it.

The radiator overflow bottle isn't essential, early autos didn't have them. Extra space in the radiator top tank serves the same function, space for the coolant to expand.

Like Clemsonfor said, I would just run it a while to see what you have. And if there is some question of coolant loss, always spin it using the compression release before starting, to clear out the cylinders.

 

[billymc]

Some of the early ones had a pushbutton on the dash for Thermostart instead of the twist-left key. Did you find a TS module screwed into the intake manifold? It looks similar to a spark plug. You probably have one on your MF35. TS was an option for starting in a cold climate, they didn't all have it.

The radiator overflow bottle isn't essential, early autos didn't have them. Extra space in the radiator top tank serves the same function, space for the coolant to expand.

Like Clemsonfor said, I would just run it a while to see what you have. And if there is some question of coolant loss, always spin it using the compression release before starting, to clear out the cylinders.

ok thanks for the replys and help from you guys over the pond . i will check it out later and see if its got a button or plug in manifold like my mf. really could do not to have to sell it on as next year my old mf really needs changing as its on 8000 hours and starting to need a few things done so its next . i was thinging of replacing it with a slightly smaller compact with 4x4 . as even though its old over here they make good money. i bought the yanmar after reading a bit about them being a good compact and the ym 1500 seemed to be a good model and parts for it ok. i had thought about a chinese one but was worried about break downs and parts put me of. well i will check the ts and the other stuff out and let you all know how i get on thanks again

 

[TGeorge]

thanks for the replys ok i got a manual with the ym1500 its ment to be as close to this model s one its for a ym 195d ? is that ok for reference to the ym1500? ok next the ym has no ts as the switch only goes one way on then start is it ment to be like that? i tryed to see if it would go left but it wont. next thing i see it has no sunb tank for radiator no pipe or bottle from bellow radiator cap to where the bottle is ment to be? dose it need this? sorry to have to ask but i had a old mitsi d1300 it had a pre heat it was well used when i got it but engine run like a clock no blowing or using oil and i worked it hard so first yanmar i have had im a bit dissapointed i know its not knew but when the add the guy stated it had had anything it needed done i thought i was getting a half descent tractor was not expecting it to be using asmuch oil in only a few clock hours work my old mf 35 uses less oil and breathes less and its 8000 hours on the clock and starts on the key prob drips more oil than it uses and breathes very little.

Not all the tractors have the Thermostart on the switch. My YM1500 has a push button on the dash.

My YM1500 does have the overflow tank for the radiator. If there is a place to attach the hose to the radiator neck, a tank could be added to your unit.

I'm not sure how to advise you on the oil use. I am in the fourth year of ownership of my YM1500 and have never added any oil between changes.

Tom George

 

[clemsonfor]

About oil loss, im with the last guy, i have only had my tractor about 100 hours on the meter. I have done 2 changes but have yet to add any oil between. I check it almost every time i use it either at start up or after the first time or so i shut down (i know its wrong time, but better than not) that day. I dont leak any real quantity, mabe some oily spots after 2 years but thats it, small ones on the motor, talking a drip or 3 every change maybe? But i have a VN recon so i cant tell you weather it had rings replaced or what. It has been a great tractor and i hope there are many more years to come. I really hate that your having the oil consumption issue you are.

If the MF still works and just leaks i would keep it, those are good strong tractors as well as keep the 1500.

If you think about it the 1qt for 4 hours is about what you would run till you want to stop and get a drink or eat lunch. I know it a hassle but just fill it up then. Or like i said put a bit more money once youget to know it and see if this is the only issue, and have someone or you put some new rings in it, it will prolly go for another 400-500 hours problem free.

 

[billymc]

About oil loss, im with the last guy, i have only had my tractor about 100 hours on the meter. I have done 2 changes but have yet to add any oil between. I check it almost every time i use it either at start up or after the first time or so i shut down (i know its wrong time, but better than not) that day. I dont leak any real quantity, mabe some oily spots after 2 years but thats it, small ones on the motor, talking a drip or 3 every change maybe? But i have a VN recon so i cant tell you weather it had rings replaced or what. It has been a great tractor and i hope there are many more years to come. I really hate that your having the oil consumption issue you are.

If the MF still works and just leaks i would keep it, those are good strong tractors as well as keep the 1500.

If you think about it the 1qt for 4 hours is about what you would run till you want to stop and get a drink or eat lunch. I know it a hassle but just fill it up then. Or like i said put a bit more money once youget to know it and see if this is the only issue, and have someone or you put some new rings in it, it will prolly go for another 400-500 hours problem free.

yes the mf has just a few leeks and breathes light butits 8000 hrs on it soit dose not bother me that much . as for oil the mf prob drips more than it burns if using saw bench it prob drips less than a spoon full in a few hours and good on fuel . ok had a look at the ym 1500 and it dose not have a ts plug in manifold like the mf. this morning it fired up first time puff of smoke then light haze . so cant figure out why after needing a jump yesterday today it started ok . i know it sat a bit before starting yesterday with the jump.as for the oil issue the guy says it was def semi synthetic oil he put in it plus new air oil filter. so im wondering if his is the prob?also do any of you know the filter number over here the filters i can get are copper filters . thanks

 

[California]

Here's an old thread that says YM1500 takes #1334 oil filter. That one is very common, it is used on nearly all Honda and Subaru plus many Toyota etc.

The air filter is unique to Yanmar. You need to get that from a Yanmar specialist. You can wash the present air filter if is just dusty. Be gentle, use dishwater, let dry thoroughly, inspect for leaks using a flashlight.

Oil: 15W-40 specified for Diesel service. I don't think there is any advantage to using synthetic since we don't put on many hours between changes.

You mentioned you have a YM195 (YM1700) manual. I think everything it says about maintenance applies to YM1500 since they were both made mid 70's.

 

[billymc]

Here's an old thread that says YM1500 takes #1334 oil filter. That one is very common, it is used on nearly all Honda and Subaru plus many Toyota etc.

The air filter is unique to Yanmar. You need to get that from a Yanmar specialist. You can wash the present air filter if is just dusty. Be gentle, use dishwater, let dry thoroughly, inspect for leaks using a flashlight.

Oil: 15W-40 specified for Diesel service. I don't think there is any advantage to using synthetic since we don't put on many hours between changes.

You mentioned you have a YM195 (YM1700) manual. I think everything it says about maintenance applies to YM1500 since they were both made mid 70's.

i will be getting oil but i think the last stuff i bought was a 10w40 but will get just mineral old style oil instead of synthetic as others think its not so good for old machines and the oil i had was just old mineral not semi or synthetic. it has anew air filter in it a orange rubber top andbottom white paper ellement in it. it reminds me of a old ford sytle one it seems to be held loose by two metal hooks dont know if its yanmar r not some one im sure will can tell? thanks

 

[clemsonfor]

i will be getting oil but i think the last stuff i bought was a 10w40 but will get just mineral old style oil instead of synthetic as others think its not so good for old machines and the oil i had was just old mineral not semi or synthetic. it has anew air filter in it a orange rubber top andbottom white paper ellement in it. it reminds me of a old ford sytle one it seems to be held loose by two metal hooks dont know if its yanmar r not some one im sure will can tell? thanks

That air filter sounds like a fram? They dont make one for a yanmar! The original yanmar and the copies that Hoye sells of the originals are both metal bodies and they have a foam or rubber gasket sealing surface on the top and bottom. You need to get the correct filter, even if you need to have hoye ship international. Just order say 6 oil filters a few air filters and other parts you may need to get the best bang for your buck. But i would think you could find parts overseeas as well?

 

[billymc]

That air filter sounds like a fram? They dont make one for a yanmar! The original yanmar and the copies that Hoye sells of the originals are both metal bodies and they have a foam or rubber gasket sealing surface on the top and bottom. You need to get the correct filter, even if you need to have hoye ship international. Just order say 6 oil filters a few air filters and other parts you may need to get the best bang for your buck. But i would think you could find parts overseeas as well?

i will check and see if i can get a air filter in the uk first. will the filter that is in it just now have any effect on running ?

 

[clemsonfor]

i will check and see if i can get a air filter in the uk first. will the filter that is in it just now have any effect on running ?

Do you have the filter that sits on top of the engine itself, like the old american cars or my old mercedees deisel, the kind thats like a donut about 10" in diameter. Or is it one that is monted on the side of the motor external to the hood off to the side of the engine? Im referring to the kind thats ontop of the motor, im not to famaliar with the side loading filters design or replacements?

As far as an effect on the motor, it will have none as far as operation may go. BUT the reason we stress the proper filter is that at least in those donut style filters anything round that size will fit but if its not right height or gasketing material, you will just suck dust/dirt and stuff around the filter, between the top lid and the filter itself or the bottom of the filter and the base plate. This basically is like having a hole in your air filter your just sucking in dirt whick will act like sand paper in your motor. Honing out your cyls and increasing the wear on the rings as grit gets in there. This may be a cause of premature wear?? Not saying it is but AAron at Hoye tractor says they have torn down quite a few motors for engine work/wear and they had the incorrect filter in them, causing them to bypass quite a bit of dirt.

I would not run it till i sourced a CORRECT yanmar or replacement yanmar filter, not just some filter from the auto store that "fits". But if you have to run it if it was me i think i would get a think piece of cotton t-shirt and rubber band it over the air opening snout or the whole device if a side cleaner. This will help and basically provide filtration. Now if its a engine top filter the opening is only like 2-3" across, not much surface are and will become clogged fast. You will most likely have to reposition it every hour or so depending on operating conditions.

 

[billymc]

Do you have the filter that sits on top of the engine itself, like the old american cars or my old mercedees deisel, the kind thats like a donut about 10" in diameter. Or is it one that is monted on the side of the motor external to the hood off to the side of the engine? Im referring to the kind thats ontop of the motor, im not to famaliar with the side loading filters design or replacements?

As far as an effect on the motor, it will have none as far as operation may go. BUT the reason we stress the proper filter is that at least in those donut style filters anything round that size will fit but if its not right height or gasketing material, you will just suck dust/dirt and stuff around the filter, between the top lid and the filter itself or the bottom of the filter and the base plate. This basically is like having a hole in your air filter your just sucking in dirt whick will act like sand paper in your motor. Honing out your cyls and increasing the wear on the rings as grit gets in there. This may be a cause of premature wear?? Not saying it is but AAron at Hoye tractor says they have torn down quite a few motors for engine work/wear and they had the incorrect filter in them, causing them to bypass quite a bit of dirt.

I would not run it till i sourced a CORRECT yanmar or replacement yanmar filter, not just some filter from the auto store that "fits". But if you have to run it if it was me i think i would get a think piece of cotton t-shirt and rubber band it over the air opening snout or the whole device if a side cleaner. This will help and basically provide filtration. Now if its a engine top filter the opening is only like 2-3" across, not much surface are and will become clogged fast. You will most likely have to reposition it every hour or so depending on operating conditions.

its the side type air box just sent a e mail to a guy to see if he has one i will put a bit cloth over the end of air box pipe at radiator just now till i get one only got one cut left this year.ground here never much dust to wet so hope its ok till i get a metal type one do you know the hight of the filter and is it 10 across from out side of filter ? thanks

 

[California]

I think you guys are talking about the same thing. See this old thread.

Yanmar Air Filter Elements

I think on YM1500 this model element is mounted flat on the side of the engine instead of on top like YM2000. Same element.