horse shelter

[bigballer]

here are some pics of what i have so far, should i be concerned with the 2x10 header (spans 10') or is it strong enough? we don't get much snow here but will get up to 6-8" which will last a couple days. i plan to block underneath the header at the post for some vertical support. it's attached with 5" long 1/2" lags. the joists are 2x6 and are 15' long but the span is just over 11' and they are 16" OC. i plan to add 2x4 purlins (how far apart should these be??) and then 29g metal roofing. then will close the face and back with 2x6 treated fascia.

 

[whistlepig]

This looks very well built and sturdy enough to me.

 

[zzvyb6]

I'm not clear on what keeps it from being knocked down? If a horse rubs, leans or bucks against this structure, it will matchbox down, especially after a few years of weathering. IMHO you need some more post support and cross bracing in case one gets knocked down or pulled out. Mine are all cement block with pillars and have a center post and that gets chewed into regularly.

Forget the snow load, its the horse loads that can get pretty high from kicking and leaning.

Just sayin'....

 

[whistlepig]

I assumed the OP was going to put stringers on to attach the walls.

 

[bigballer]

I assumed the OP was going to put stringers on to attach the walls.

yes, i am planning on enclosing 3 sides which will increase the strength.

 

[inveresk]

You'll definitely need shear walls. They don't need to be full height. Knee braces would have been an option if you had more height. I'd add additional 2 x 10's at the other side of the posts. Do add the blocking. Make sure your posts are well tied down to resist wind uplift. I'd say your rafters are light for 11' span but for a horse shelter wouldn't sweat it. Purlin centers will depend on the profile of your roof sheeting. Probably 4'. Check with your supplier.

 

[bigballer]

You'll definitely need shear walls. They don't need to be full height. Knee braces would have been an option if you had more height. I'd add additional 2 x 10's at the other side of the posts. Do add the blocking. Make sure your posts are well tied down to resist wind uplift. I'd say your rafters are light for 11' span but for a horse shelter wouldn't sweat it. Purlin centers will depend on the profile of your roof sheeting. Probably 4'. Check with your supplier.

by shear wall i assume you mean a walls on the sides. i plan to run 2x6 or 2x8 the along the sides and back horizontally to attach the metal sheating to then add 2x6TG to the inside to protect the metal from kicking/rubbing. knee braces can still be an option as the front is 8'-6" tall, the horse which will be housed here is pretty mellow older mare and she isn't known for kicking/bucking but could do some rubbing i suppose. i will add the blocking. the posts are sunk 3' down with bell shaped hole filled with concrete so i don't expect much lift and the frost line around here is 3" to non-existant. i was planning on 6 rows of purlins which would make them just over 2' apart, i guess i could go with 5 rows which would be 2'-9" apart.

thanks for the replies so far..

 

[Lloyd_E]

I would double the header - one on either side of the post. You can than run four(one per/off post) 45 degree supports 4X4 from header to posts. This will keep it from racking side to side. I would legg bolt together. I would also do this front to back with longer 2x4 or 2x6.
As a general rule 2x dictates the span; ie: 2x4 = 4' span, 2x6 = 6' span, 2x8 = 8' span etc.

 

[MotorSeven]

What's a horse shelter? I have the weather proof variety

My wife and I had the "shelter" argument several times. I win it every time...."well, ok, what do wild horses do when it rains/snows?" :thumbsup:

 

[BeezFun]

My wife and I had the "shelter" argument several times. I win it every time...."well, ok, what do wild horses do when it rains/snows?" :thumbsup:

And she said "What do cave men do when it rains/snows?" and told you to go sleep with the horses.

 

[MotorSeven]

And she said "What do cave men do when it rains/snows?" and told you to go sleep with the horses.

But they sleep standing up...that means i'd be at hoof level....we have Clydes..big pie plate hooves....I think I'd just climb up on the hay.

 

[Dave5264]

In addition to whats been suggested, planned. Id be adding some diagonal or X bracing on the back and side walls to stop it Scissoring.

I have built 2 of these (10x20) in the past 2 years and as someone already pointed out, the horses do a lot of rubbing and pushing on these structures. If all your bracing and planking is vertiacal and horizontal, Id worry that it could scissor on you.

 

[tlbuser]

What's a horse shelter? I have the weather proof variety

My wife and I had the "shelter" argument several times. I win it every time...."well, ok, what do wild horses do when it rains/snows?" :thumbsup:

There was a compromise at our place. The horses now have 24 hour access to their stalls :ashamed:

 

[GPintheMitten]

My 2 cents, is to advise against metal sides, metal roof is fine, but sheet metal and horses don't mix well. It might cost a little more in material and maintenance, but I recommend wood siding, like T-111, then paint or stain it.

Even though there may be no rough edges right after your project is done, damage to the metal is likely to occur over time and sooner or later you'll have some sharp edges exposed.

 

[Lloyd_E]

My 2 cents, is to advise against metal sides, metal roof is fine, but sheet metal and horses don't mix well. It might cost a little more in material and maintenance, but I recommend wood siding, like T-111, then paint or stain it.

Even though there may be no rough edges right after your project is done, damage to the metal is likely to occur over time and sooner or later you'll have some sharp edges exposed.

Very good point...

Could go board and batten too.

 

[GPintheMitten]

An afterthought regarding using plywood like T-111, it will accomplish the bracing to avoid scissoring that others have brought up.

Then add a couple of braces at the open end on the run in from the corner posts to the end beam. Also, run a 2x4 at an angle across the bottom of the rafters.

With all the other suggestions, your run in should be good to go for 50 years.

 

[BeezFun]

My 2 cents, is to advise against metal sides, metal roof is fine, but sheet metal and horses don't mix well. It might cost a little more in material and maintenance, but I recommend wood siding, like T-111, then paint or stain it.

Even though there may be no rough edges right after your project is done, damage to the metal is likely to occur over time and sooner or later you'll have some sharp edges exposed.

big ditto on this, I never use metal around horses. Between scratching themselves and kicking it, it ends up looking terrible because you can't fix it, and risks injury.

 

[crbr]

Good looking building plans....

 

[tcreeley]

I think you may have a drainage problem from the runoff down the bank that may flood the interior. I'd slope the ground between the wall and the landscape timbers to move it out quickly. If snow gets in there in between, it will wick in water that will travel inside. Maybe over hang the roof much as you can.
Good you are building this. Freezing rain and wind do a job on horses.
Makesure your entryway is wide enough for two horse to rush through side by side or just right for one at a time. I find a 5' doorway or a 10' doorway good. 2X4 purlins do best every 16"-18" on the roof. Build stronger- no regrets. Use bracing. Horses like to roll. Too tight they get cast up against a wall. Bigger the better.
Plywood the inside and plywood sheathe the outside, and side it - very sturdy. Building is always about budget and compromise. If you like what you have- it's good!

 

[bruceha2000]

here are some pics of what i have so far, should i be concerned with the 2x10 header (spans 10') or is it strong enough? we don't get much snow here but will get up to 6-8" which will last a couple days. i plan to block underneath the header at the post for some vertical support. it's attached with 5" long 1/2" lags. the joists are 2x6 and are 15' long but the span is just over 11' and they are 16" OC.

Is that 6-8" of powder or wet? There is a big difference and the pitch on that roof isn't steep. Shallower than our porch roof from the looks of it. The carpenters built it with 2x10 rafters on 16" centers but the porch is only 5' deep. The porch is enclosed with 30" wide storm windows with 2x6 studs between each and the header is a double 2x10.

I would worry about trying to span 10' with a single 2x10 on a bearing side. As suggested by inveresk, add a second on the inside of the posts front and rear. They are cheap insurance

Our house was built about 100 years ago with REAL 2x6 joists on 24" centers The house is only 15' wide and there was a carrying beam half way across so they spanned < 7.5'. And the joists still sagged over time. They were jacked and sistered BOTH sides with 2x8 micro-lams (ceiling was already only 7'6"!) when we rehabbed it and still aren't totally level. The carpenters were worried about trying to take too much "decades old bend" out of old wood in a short period of time. If we hadn't wanted to save the the installed hardwood floor on the 2nd floor, they would have leveled the tops of the micros instead of matching the tops of the existing joists.

I realize there is a difference between a floor and a roof (with not much snow) and 16" vs 24" centers and yours are probably OK given your location but if you happen to get a dump some winter, I would suggest getting out a snow rake and pulling it off.