Need chainsaw: svc manual, continuous use

[xyz123]

Sounds like xyz123 has had an issue with Stihl. Remember, the OP is not a professional logger. THe MS290 is an upgrade from the homeowner saws yet not quite the pro level. In this day and age, ethanol is the biggest culprit in saw problems.

No issues with stihl. I call it as I see it.
I just cant stand working on the plastic homeowner crap. Now give me a 260 360 361 440 660 880 to work on no problem. I just hate the design of the plastic stihls. Long as they are running they are fine, butttttttt when you have to work on one and tear it down is when I cant stand them.

Remember I have owned 029, 029 super, ms290, 025. I know how they are made. I sale them as soon as I can.
I also have owned 084 x 4, 066 660 x3, 362 034/036, 026 pro, 200T. No problems work on real stihl saws. :laughing:

To me the homeowner plastic saws from stihl are over priced in the first place and guys just flock to them becuase of the name stihl. Better saws out there, built like pro saws for the money. JMO.

 

[LD1]

LD1, everyone that buys the 210 230 250 290 310 390 homeowner saws should be made to work on it themselves. Then they would never buy the crap after seeing how they are built :ashamed: :laughing:

Yea, but the MS290 "farmboss" is stihls #1 selling saw. That must make it the best right:laughing:

I personally would never own a "farmboss" or a "rancher". Pro-saw price, without the "pro" saw performance:confused2: But some dont understand that.

 

[LD1]

To me the homeowner plastic saws from stihl are over priced in the first place and guys just flock to them becuase of the name stihl. Better saws out there, built like pro saws for the money. JMO.

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[DAY]

My Mother in Law gave me a Homelite for Christmas, 1980. Other than replacing chains and bars, it worked fine for the next 20 years @20 hours/year. So when it died, I naturally bought another one.
Apparently there were some changes made over those 20 years!:laughing: The second one lasted about ten hours before needing repairs. Second ten hour visit to the shop, my local guy sold me the Echo.

 

[ruralNearDallas]

All,

Thanks again for your comments. Very helpful.

Car Doc,

You asked about the model that we bought and fought with all afternoon (but have returned for our money). It was the Pp4218avx. Poulan Pro PP4218AVX If people are really interested, I could go through the whole PP experience of trying to make it work. Just let me know.

All,

Not sure I was clear on last post. Here is my timeline: Moved to "the country" with lots of trees to cut, and fireplace. Bought Stihl MS210C circa 2006. A time or two over the years the saw would quit (maybe just needed a chain change), and I wanted to keep sawing, so I recently decided I wanted a second. Took time off from work to cut on Friday. Stihl started having trouble indicating it was not getting enough fuel. Filter okay, vent okay. Bought a carb., but on the way home looked at cheaper saws as the second saw. Saturday bought the PP and tried for hours to get it to behave properly--including a trip to the box store. Sunday, decided to give it a try replacing the carb. It was much easier than I thought it would be. Saw worked fine. By now, I had decided I should probably give up on PoulanPro as the second saw, but tried again to start it going exactly as it said. Returned PP yesterday (Monday). Will buy the second saw later when it is a good time for me (still have lots of cutting to do before Spring).

By the way, one thing I think I like about Stihl versus PP or Husky is it has one switch for fuel and ignition--the others have a primer bulb, and a separate off/on switch. I have known people who have pulled and pulled on weed wackers just to find out the switch was off. Also, less switches means less variables when struggling with starting it. ??

 

[Car Doc]

Newer Husky's have one switch actually the blue one pulls the choke and pulls the red one and turns on the mag and the red one shuts it back off so really only one switch to operate it with if you look at it that way. fwtw

I actually like the primer bulbs now I have had a few with them I realize I will sooner or later have to replace them but for now I like 1-2 pull starting my 372 could benefit from one...

 

[LD1]

Spring).

By the way, one thing I think I like about Stihl versus PP or Husky is it has one switch for fuel and ignition--the others have a primer bulb, and a separate off/on switch. I have known people who have pulled and pulled on weed wackers just to find out the switch was off. Also, less switches means less variables when struggling with starting it. ??

They all only have one on and off switch that kills the coil to shut the saw off.

They al have a choke lever also that needs turned on to start cold. Some saws have the choke part of the on-off. Smaller dolmars are this way also.

The primer bulb is optional. You could buy a saw that has it and ignore it and be none the wiser. It would start just like any other saw that doesnt have one. BUT, once you see how easy a saw starts with the primer, I doubt you will forget to pump it.

 

[DAY]

Stay AWAY from the big box stores!
A GOOD local dealer will match their price, and, if you ask (sometimes even if you don't) will "pre flight" the machines he sells. ( he knows you will be back for sharpening, filters, blades, chains etc, and they are all money makers for him)

 

[Bota4me]

If your ok spending money than i would go for the stihl 361. I own that and a n ms180 for trim work. If the 361 is too much for your needs go for the ms260. Both great saws imo. My 361 is one versatile good running saw that has cut a lot of wood trouble free. I have also owned huskys and worked ok. Imo the stihl bars and chains are the best also. Good luck with your new saw whatever you choose.

 

[Car Doc]

All,

Thanks again for your comments. Very helpful.

Car Doc,

You asked about the model that we bought and fought with all afternoon (but have returned for our money). It was the Pp4218avx. Poulan Pro PP4218AVX If people are really interested, I could go through the whole PP experience of trying to make it work. Just let me know.

Thats ok I figured thats the one you had I had one for 1 day also...

fwtw In a saw that size I would recommend having a look at the new 346XP with a 16" bar it is going to be hard to beat and even up to 18" its a great all around saw. I use mine 90% of the time my big saw hardly gets used after getting the 346 its a screamer pure high performance in a tiny package is all I can say. good luck

 

[arrow]

Thats ok I figured thats the one you had I had one for 1 day also...

fwtw In a saw that size I would recommend having a look at the new 346XP with a 16" bar it is going to be hard to beat and even up to 18" its a great all around saw. I use mine 90% of the time my big saw hardly gets used after getting the 346 its a screamer pure high performance in a tiny package is all I can say. good luck

That is an all around saw. For this op I would recommend something a little cheaper but with the enough umph to cut his osage orange which has the same density as white oak.
That would be the husky 353. Magnesium case. Not quite the speed of 346 but a better torque range for this user. Also with a 16" bar, would be $100 cheaper than the 346.
I would next recommend the Dolmar 460. Cheaper still than the Husky but would cut right along with it. The Sthils are expensive for the power. If budget is really tight, I would opt for a Husky 435/440. You need nothing more than a 16" bar for what you are cutting. Step ups for more power would be the 346 w18" bar, Dolmar 5000 series or the 260 series from Sthil. These are in the $500 range. Any of the above mentioned saws will give you excellent service for your task.

 

[ruralNearDallas]

Bota4me,

I tried looking up the Stihl models you recommended on Chain Saws High Performance Professional Chain saws & Electric Chainsaws | STIHL

Unfortunately, it looks like they don't sell them anymore, and did not archive the specs. Also disappointed I could not find the MS210C that I alredy knew.

I wish they told which current saws are comparable to those.

 

[Bota4me]

Sorry about that. The new models are the ms261 and ms 362.
Both great saws, btw how big of timber are you cutting?
Maybe that would help narrow it down for you.
I agree with the other posters about supporting your Real saw shops though. Theres a lot of good ole knowledge there

 

[xyz123]

The 210 was replaced by the 211.

 

[ruralNearDallas]

Bota4me,

Thanks

xyz123,

I guessed that 211 would replace 210, but had not been sure because the chain tensioner is different. The 210 has a thumbwheel that I think I like, but then maybe the bolt/screw kind could actually be better. I have to remove my glove to flip up the handle of the bar loosener, but maybe with the bolt/screw type I could leave the gloves on

 

[Chilly807]

I had an 023 Stihl for a few years, it was a rescue from the scrap pile that turned out to be a tough little saw. Probably mid-90's vintage. The 353 Husky or 362 Stihl are both great saws, as is the 346XP Husky and the MS260 Stihl. Any of those four will fill the needs quite well, although the 362 is going to be on the big side for most use.

Most casual users don't need 60+ cc's of power, especially not for 5-20 inch wood.

My everyday saw is an old 242 Husky that is one of the predecessors of the 346 of today. Still going strong after 22 years.. I also have an old 044 Stihl for bigger, ugly wood.

I agree, stay away from the department/big box/hardware store Huskys.. if it's not a servicing dealer they aren't worth your time stopping to look. Stihl doesn't have that problem, if a dealer will sell you a Stihl they are prepared to back it up. In theory at least, there are exceptions to every rule.

Sean