I join you guys today with my new CK27 HST

Shulaj · Sep 21, 2011

Did I get a good price? First off, I know zilch about tractors. Never even been on one. But I had to do some backfilling and was sick of always paying someone else. I've blown 30K this year on people hauling and cutting and scraping and septics. I have another septic to get done so I had a bit more to pay next year.

I went to rent a small unit for another cottage for I am building and decided to look at buying a used thing. Then after I ran across this board and your great comments, I read non-stop for a day and decided to go out to a dealer and see for myself. I drove (ok I learned to drive) the CK20 and 27. I wanted the CK20 but in the end, it was just $3000 more to go up to the 2011 CK27 HST and it seemed night and day for capabilities. So I got the 27 with the front loader, forks and Remote for $17400 plus tax. That includes delivery an hour away.

Good deal?

My wife has no idea so I may need to dig a hole to sleep in when she gets up to the cottage this weekend!

Dmace · Sep 21, 2011

Congrats and Welcome to the Pack!
I haven't priced a tractor in years but it doesn't sound bad for a 27hp HST tractor.
Also, you'll want to look into some kind of weight for the rear of the tractor. Even my little CK20 with all four tires loaded, if I don't have anything on the rear (backhoe, boxblade, snowblower, etc...) it will lift the rear tires off the ground when lifting heavy loads. Kioti recommends around 700lbs.

Shulaj · Sep 21, 2011

Should I have him put fluid in the tires? Then it makes it heavier to trailer, and I will be moving it around a bit from cottage to cottage.

I also think I will only be lifting say 600 pound rocks like a times a year.

Honestly I should have likely bought the 20 but for the power difference I think this is twice the machine for $3000 more. I still think the 20 would have been fine though - and it was "cute" in size so I sure hope I don't regret this 27's size. I felt if it was too big I could downsize later easier than upsizing later.

canoetrpr · Sep 21, 2011

I've got no clue about Kioti prices and I think now that you have it you have paid what you have paid. Hard to see how it could be a bad deal for what you got though.

Seems like a sweet setup. I have a friend with a CK25 and a hoe and he is mighty pleased with it. Does a ton of stuff around his place.

I'm sure you will have a blast! Enjoy and do post some pictures.

Dmace · Sep 21, 2011

Shulaj said:
Should I have him put fluid in the tires? Then it makes it heavier to trailer, and I will be moving it around a bit from cottage to cottage.

Fluid in the tires is certainly the cheapest way to add ballast (weight) to the rear and puts it in the best location with no added strain on the drivetrain. Like you said though, it's not easily removed when not needed. I would go for a box blade or rear blade, both will add good weight to the rear, cost around $400-$750, easily removed and would be great tools for yard work.

k0ua · Sep 21, 2011

Or you can make a ballast box. Lots of examples on this board, or buy one . I made mine for less than $100 for everything. The only advantages of the ballast box it is cheaper than the implements mentioned, and shorter if you work in the woods. But the implements are usefull at the the same time for other tasks. You can do the tire loading yourself with minimum outlay using RV antifreeze or winter blend Windshield Washer fluid. Congrats on getting the new tractor, The wife will learn to love it for what it will do, and may enjoy operating it. My wife and I both love ours and use it all the time.

James K0UA

RSKY · Sep 21, 2011

I have a CK20 and love it. For my uses it is perfect. But it sounds like you made the right choice going with the CK27. If your wife is like mine she will first sit on it, then a few days later she will drive it around the yard. Now whenever I say something about using the tractor she says 'OK, give me the key' and takes off on it.

whiskywizard · Sep 21, 2011

Shulaj said:
Did I get a good price?

That includes delivery an hour away.

An hour from the Muskokas, eh... I'm guessing you got it from Lakeridge Equipment. Tom and Dick are good and fair guys. You'll be happy you bought there.

I have a CK20s HST from them and am very pleased so far. It is far stronger in practice than you would guess from the spec sheet. A very capable little guy, this Kioti!

whiskywizard · Sep 21, 2011

Shulaj said:
Should I have him put fluid in the tires? Then it makes it heavier to trailer, and I will be moving it around a bit from cottage to cottage.

I also think I will only be lifting say 600 pound rocks like a times a year.

yes - get the rears loaded with Rimguard.

VictorW · Sep 21, 2011

Sounds like a fair price. That's close to what I paid for my CK30hst about 5 years ago.

I don't have filled tires. I use my 6ft. Rhino back blade for ballast when doing average loader work which would be fine for 600 pound rocks. If you going to push the limits of the loader lift capacity, then you would need more.

Have fun with the new toy. Just tell the wife; see all I can do and how much faster so I'll have more time with you.

My wife likes using mine because of no shifting and power steering.

MossflowerWoods · Sep 21, 2011

Welcome to the Pack!:thumbsup:

I think you made the right choice. VERY RARE that a guy will ever say "I wish I'd bought a smaller tractor"

My wife was skeptical at first, but then the Stump Grinder was HER idea, so who knows!

Happy Tractoring!
David

LandGuy · Sep 21, 2011

I feel your excitement, Shulaj. The only thing more exciting than a new tractor is a new pair of boots! (Well, maybe not quite.)

I bought a CK35 (hst) in May of 2010. I paid a bottom line of $17,619. The dealer (Tractor Hill Equipment, Mineral, VA---the earthquake capital of the East) was doing a special: "free" loaders. I had to jump on that.

So maybe you didn't get the best deal out there, but you won't regret your purchase of a CK.

Mousefield · Sep 21, 2011

Congratulations on your new CK27. Sounds like you have a few jobs lined up for it, remember to take a few pics to post, we do like pictures :laughing: :licking:.
Have many safe and happy hours in the seat. :tractor: :cool2:

RoMad · Sep 21, 2011

I have a ck20 and really like it. For its size it is amazing what it will do. As for the loading of the tires, I never loaded mine because I don't want the extra weight on my tow rig. I usually use my heavy homemade boxblade for counter weight for the loader. Sometimes I use my RFM and put a little extra weight across the arms for the rear wheels.

Shulaj · Sep 22, 2011

Well got the beast and pushed around some sand today. Definitely needs some weight in the rear as wheels in rear actually raise if you grab a big bucket of sand.

I did have a question. When I am licking up and dumping smaller loads, I assume I do NOT need to be on full power. Right. It's light work so I can go at lower throttle. Correct?

Also I noticed that if I am dumping downhill, sometimes it's hard to back UP because rear wheels spin. Is there a trick? Do I put the loader in. Certain position to get more weight on rear tires? I did notice I need to get into LOW gear and go full throttle to back up a hill.

MossflowerWoods · Sep 22, 2011

Shulaj said:
Well got the beast and pushed around some sand today. Definitely needs some weight in the rear as wheels in rear actually raise if you grab a big bucket of sand.

I did have a question. When I am licking up and dumping smaller loads, I assume I do NOT need to be on full power. Right. It's light work so I can go at lower throttle. Correct?

Also I noticed that if I am dumping downhill, sometimes it's hard to back UP because rear wheels spin. Is there a trick? Do I put the loader in. Certain position to get more weight on rear tires? I did notice I need to get into LOW gear and go full throttle to back up a hill.

Shulaj,

If the rears are slipping/spinning I suspect it is the ballast issue. hang an attachment off the rear and both problems will be reduced.

Did you try 4wd? My experience with the 4wd is that is is unstoppable. When my rears are slipping on wet timber slash, put it in 4wd, and it just goes.

I only run at full RPM when I am running the PTO attachments. When I am using the grapple or bucket and FEL I run 1800 to 2000 (just enough it climbs my steep driveway hill). I find that to work well for me.

I run in MED most of the time. I use HIGH only on the flats of my driveway, or down the driveway easment to the mailbox and pavement. I use LOW when I want precise and smaller movements of the tractor. I use Low to keep me from driving too fast into the slash piles.

Just my :2cents:

Be well,
David

k0ua · Sep 22, 2011

Shulaj said:
Well got the beast and pushed around some sand today. Definitely needs some weight in the rear as wheels in rear actually raise if you grab a big bucket of sand.

I did have a question. When I am licking up and dumping smaller loads, I assume I do NOT need to be on full power. Right. It's light work so I can go at lower throttle. Correct?

Also I noticed that if I am dumping downhill, sometimes it's hard to back UP because rear wheels spin. Is there a trick? Do I put the loader in. Certain position to get more weight on rear tires? I did notice I need to get into LOW gear and go full throttle to back up a hill.

As for what gear range to be in, a lot depends on what your terrain is like. Around here its Low about 90 percent of the time, as it is very hilly. I use MED for transport longer distances on the places I can. HI is only road gear on flat ground. When I lived on flat ground, with a different tractor I stayed in MED almost all the time, except when I needed some push "grunt". As for the rear wheel lift, please be careful, remember the front axle is on a single pivot bolt so if you are on any angle at all and the rear wheels lift, you can pivot over in a fraction of a second. You really need to get some weight on the back ASAP. Look in your manual, but I am guessing for that size tractor at least 600 lbs. I have loaded tires and 750 lbs on mine. It turns the tractor from a tippy toy to a tank. Loaded tires are good to have when you have a light implement on back, and you still need some weight, and stability. I run the RPM usually 1500 to 1900 for most things, adding power as needed.. just listen to the tractor, dont let it "lug" and you dont need to overspin it either. I keep mine in 4wd most of the time except on very hard surfaces (road). But keep in mind without weight on the rear, (which you need badly) you put more strain on the front driveline componets and axle seals as you are in a nose heavy condition. Happy tractoring:thumbsup:

James K0UA

RunninOnEmpty · Sep 22, 2011

Congrats on your CK27! I too got tired of paying others to do my work. So I researched & decided on a CK20HST.
When I bought my CK20 the dealer recommended 3 things: loading the rear tires, tooth bar & hooks welded on bucket. I'm glad I said "yes" to all three.

LandGuy · Sep 22, 2011

Shulaj, what type of tires did you get? I went with the industrials and have been happy with them. Not quite the traction of ags, obviously, but solid performance and easier on the ground. (With the differential lock and 4WD I think the traction concern is somewhat neutralized.)

I agree strongly with those who say you should have your rear tires filled.

I'm just finishing up doing my 50-hour service on my 35. (Due to personal issues I wasn't able to use my tractor much in the first year I owned it, but I'm really starting to use it now as I clear about an acre to extend a 3-acre field. So, I'll try to participate more in the Kioti forums from now on.) It's been easy to do---just have a BIG container to catch all that hydraulic fluid! Despite what my dealer told me, I'm using a synthetic gear oil and not hydraulic/transmission oil in the front axle case, and I recommend you do too when the time comes.

I found it strange that all the drain plugs were barely tight---I could almost loosen them by hand, and with just the slightest pressure from a wrench. Anyone else notice that? I tightened them considerably more than that when I reinstalled them, but still on the gentle side.

Mousefield · Sep 22, 2011

MossflowerWoods said:
Shulaj,

If the rears are slipping/spinning I suspect it is the ballast issue. hang an attachment off the rear and both problems will be reduced.

Did you try 4wd? My experience with the 4wd is that is is unstoppable. When my rears are slipping on wet timber slash, put it in 4wd, and it just goes.

I only run at full RPM when I am running the PTO attachments. When I am using the grapple or bucket and FEL I run 1800 to 2000 (just enough it climbs my steep driveway hill). I find that to work well for me.

I run in MED most of the time. I use HIGH only on the flats of my driveway, or down the driveway easment to the mailbox and pavement. I use LOW when I want precise and smaller movements of the tractor. I use Low to keep me from driving too fast into the slash piles.

Just my :2cents:

Be well,
David