Quiet exhaust

[chrisser]

Just bought myself a '62 International B414 tractor.

Has a four cylinder gasoline engine with 43 HP at 143 c.i. I believe the max RPMs are 2000.

The original exhaust went straight down out of the manifold and then was routed under the tractor.

That was removed long ago, the original pipe out of the manifold was crudely bent into a U, and a hole was cut into the hood onto which a slip-on muffler was added.

The U has several cracks in it, and between that and the leaks where the muffler slips on, its enough to wake the dead when it runs. Plus I have to wait for the muffler to cool before opening the hood, and it just plain looks hokey.

I haven't found anyone to supply the exhaust pipe, so I'm resigned to building a system myself, which is not a problem. But I'd like to make the exhaust as quiet as possible without a bunch of expensive trial and error.

Would it be any benefit to use a car muffler vs a tractor muffler? I'd really lilke to quiet this thing down a lot - I think its a lot safer and my neighbors will appreciate it too.

Can anyone suggest mufflers they've used on similar-sized engines that would work well or offer any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Since it is a gas burner if you have places like Midas Muffler or one of them give them a shout and ask what they have. You have the skills so it should not be too hard. Then strain relief it so it isn't hanging from the exhaust manifold..

 

[5030]

Any industrial cylindrical reverse flow muffler with the correct size inlet and outlet will work. Tractor Supply has various sizes on the shelf.

 

[chrisser]

Since it is a gas burner if you have places like Midas Muffler or one of them give them a shout and ask what they have. You have the skills so it should not be too hard. Then strain relief it so it isn't hanging from the exhaust manifold..

I thought I'd incorporate a flex pipe section shortly after the manifold as is used in many FWD vehicles. It's a metal bellows inside a metal mesh sleeve. They will absorb a fair amount of angular deflection by the rest of the exhaust, as well as cushion any hits or pulls. Then use standard rubber strap hangers for the rest.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Flex pipe works I was not a big fan of it since it may burn out quicker than solid pipe. But it's not like you are driving on the highway with higher exhaust temps. Make sure you dump the outlet far enough away from the operator if you were to be sitting on it idling for any length. Even an open cab carbon monoxide can be an issue. Now you will have to post pre fix and post fix pictures so we criticize your welding skills :confused2:

Hey 5030 I like that bike picture!

 

[jonyyuma]

You should be able to shop out a muffler at NAPA from their catalog. Jeg's has a nice catalog for hi-per mufflers. i like the turbo- mufflers on my v-6 engines for a nice tone. I even used car muffler to tone down my diesel truck roar.

 

[SSdoxie]

The engine is mounted solid to the frame (no rubber mounts) so exhaust and muffler can be solid mounted as well. Rubber hangers can get worn or tear loose if you snag it on something. IMO it would be better to mount it all rigid.

 

[chrisser]

The engine is mounted solid to the frame (no rubber mounts) so exhaust and muffler can be solid mounted as well. Rubber hangers can get worn or tear loose if you snag it on something. IMO it would be better to mount it all rigid.

I was thinking that there might be issues with expansion/contraction as the pipes heat up cool down. I can always weld up another pipe, but I don't want to crack the old exhaust manifold.

But if that's not a concern, solid-mounting it would be much easier...

 

[jonyyuma]

I have noticed tractor exhaust brazed or silver soldiered before..and manifold repaired the same way.. You can probably still get another new one for it? personally I always hated header burns ..

 

[chrisser]

I have noticed tractor exhaust brazed or silver soldiered before..and manifold repaired the same way.. You can probably still get another new one for it? personally I always hated header burns ..

It's not just whether or not I can get a new manifold that concerns me - it's been on there 50 years. Likely one or more bolts will break off trying to unbolt it. Worse case then that could mean drilling out and retapping the block. I dont mind doing that if I have to, but I'd rather not have to do it because I didn't think out the exhaust well enough.

If that happens in my driveway now, not such a big deal, but this is going to be left at our property in WV. It's four hours away and I don't cart my workshop and all my tools down with me everytime (unless you believe what my wife says :laughing:...)

Of course, anything I put together can't be that much worse than what's hanging on it now...

Maybe the best course of action is to keep the flex coupling between the manifold and the rest of the system, so there's some expansion between the manifold and the remainder, then bracket the rest solidly to the chassis.

I'll try and get a pic tonight of what's on there now. I won't be working on the exhaust for a day or two - have to clean up the garage a little to get the thing in there so I can work on it at night and in the rain.

 

[jonyyuma]

Maybe you could braze a steel nipple on it then clamp the flex pipe to the outside. Yes, I had a tractor 4 hours from the house too...Painful failures always stopped the action...Rust frozen parts are never fun and the bolts weakened from heat. Just saying since it was IH, about parts..

 

[chrisser]

Here are some pics of my current exhaust:

I have since removed the pipe off the manifold, and have some plate ordered to make a new flange.

 

[SSdoxie]

A good woven flex pipe at the manifold will be a good idea. Looks like the exhuast will block easy access to starter removal, so being able totake flex pipe off to get starter out is easier than dropping the complete exhaust.

 

[NICKB304]

On my dad's ford 800 jubilee we re-routed the exhaust under the tractor and added and economy car muffler from napa that fit the tubing we were using. I believe the muffler is right behind the mount for the fel and right under the clutch side floor board. It then has a tail pipe out the back with a slight turn down at the end. It is super quiet and makes for a great hay ride puller around their property each fall. You hear more whine from the gears than you do exhaust noise.

 

[ptgdigger]

I like to use flex joints rather than flexible tubing, yes they're pricey but they are stainless and i've never had to replace one. Keeps all the various vibrations out of the exhaust system and lowers the stress on the exhaust manifold. You don't have to come right off the manifold with one , you can make your downpipe then add it in.

Stainless Works Stainless Steel Flex-Joints - JEGS

http://stores.ebay.com/Bear-River-Converters?refid=store

Ray

 

[5030]

I have noticed tractor exhaust brazed or silver soldiered before..and manifold repaired the same way.. You can probably still get another new one for it? personally I always hated header burns ..

Back in the day when I was a kid, we refered to those 'love bites' you got at the drive in as 'header burns'........

 

[chrisser]

I built the exhaust a few days ago. The rest of the tractor is a work in progress, so I won't have it back on for awhile. I'll snap some pics then.

The B414 was originally a diesel only for the first year, with the exhaust on the right. Stock went straight down the right to the foot steps, then turned to a cross-under muffler, then turned back and exited on the left side.

The gas engine exhausts on the left and the stock system crosses over to the right just behind the engine, then continues along the path of the diesel exhaust - presumably to minimize the number of parts.

I couldn't find a muffler that was short enough, nor pre-bent 90' elbows tight enough to package the muffler under the tractor without interfering with something, so I just ran it along the left side, close to the chassis until the foot steps, then it juts out a bit to the left where it joins a muffler and exits just past the left axle.

I decided against the flex pipe, figuring that the factory didn't have it so it probably wasn't necessary. Built my own hangers to utilize some of the existing threaded holes but had to drill and tap a couple of holes in the rear axle on one of the bosses (didn't pierce the axle housing) for some bolts to hold up the muffler end.

Appreciate everyone's help.

It turns out I need a new hydraulic filter on the suction side. The old one was so full of crud that it collapsed itself. I can't fill the hydraulic system without the new filter (it's on order) and I can't start the tractor with the hydraulic system empty, so I won't know for a couple of days how well the muffler works. Can't be worse than what I had!

 

[ozley]

They have muffler or they did for B414 under the rear.
http://secure.ssbtractor.com/cgi-bin/quikstore.cgi?search=yes&hits_seen=14&keywords=B414&and=1

 

[chrisser]

It looks like that exhaust manifold might flip.. as in pull it off and turn it up... Is it possible?

It may make routing th pipe easier... Although maybe it relys on the backpressure from the bend....

Regards,
Chris

Only if I could find a carb that ran upside-down.

The exhaust manifold and intake manifold are all one casting.

Would have been a good idea otherwise...

 

[Treemonkey1000]

That's called a downdraft carb.. Sorry just yankin your chain.