Metal Siding On Pole Barn Question

[kycontrols]

Working on a pole barn and I am starting to think about the metal siding. I used treated lumber for the purlins. What would you recommend as a barrier between the metal and the purlins?

I am also trying to figure out if I should insulate the barn or not. The building will be not be conditioned and will be used for storage only. Thoughts/Opinions?

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[LD1]

Working on a pole barn and I am starting to think about the metal siding. I used treated lumber for the purlins. What would you recommend as a barrier between the metal and the purlins?

I am also trying to figure out if I should insulate the barn or not. The building will be not be conditioned and will be used for storage only. Thoughts/Opinions?

Thanks,

Jeff

If it is ONLY for storage, I would waste money to insulate. But if you plan on working in it, like a un-heated garage to tinker in, I'd insulate it. Even if you dont HVAC it, it will still stay cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter.

But I have to ask why you used treated purlins??

 

[rrrkkk]

You at least need to insulate the roof, if not it will drip from condensation, ask me how I know. I used aluminum bubble foil in 8' rolls.

 

[2manyrocks]

I'll toss this out for discussion as I haven't done it myself. If you have treated purlins, short of taking them down and replacing them with untreated wood, I suppose you could staple vinyl trim stock over the purlins and then attach your metal siding. Now if the PT will eat vinyl trim stock too, I can't say...

 

[GLyford]

I used treated lumber for the purlins. What would you recommend as a barrier between the metal and the purlins?

The butyl flashing tape is good stuff, there's a bunch of different brands ("water and ice", "vycor" and "protecto-wrap" are common near me). Enough to cover all your purlins will set you back quite a bit, the stuff runs about $18 for a 6"x50' roll, even if you cut it lengthwise to cover 3" wide by 100'. You can usually find it in the roofing section. Look for the stuff for windows, as some of the roofing patch stuff is sticky on both sides.

Also, you need to use siding fasteners that will hold up in the PT, stainless or "hot dipped" are usually what I see recommended.

 

[Rustyiron]

Asuming that your concern is the corrosion by the pt to the metal, I wonder if you could use Tyvek or even tar paper, because normally pt is used where an exposure to water is expected regularly. Your condition should be normally sheltered and dry. ?? Do a little checking around to see if "dry" pt is still agressive to metal. Good question!

 

[Rustyiron]

That also raises the question about your fasteners. I've never seen SS or double dipped galv. screws!

 

[LD1]

I cant say for certain, but I think the PT-metal contact will be just fine. The metal is painted on both sides anyway. Plus, about every polebarn I know of has metal in DIRECT contact with PT boards around the base of the building. And I dont see them with the metal at the bottom all rusted and corroded??

 

[DrZ]

Go with Tyvek. We have been using it alot lately on the sheds we have been putting it up. Alot of the customers are requesting it because they plan on insulating the building in the future and using it as a shop or heated storage of some kind. Also, you would have to check with the steel provider to wether it is kosher to apply there panels to a treated substrate. We often used a barrier on the bottom because the first purlin ( "mud board" ) used is .06 treated, approved for below grade use and is very corrosive. However most treated sold is not .06, and in that case I would not worry. As for screws, they do make a treated wood screw for steel. It is usually black in color on the threads. Check with your local lumber supplier :thumbsup:

 

[ustmd]

Jeff,

If ou decide to insulate, I would stay away from batt insulation. Even ith good control (cats, traps, etc), it will become home to every rodent in the area.