I have two questions that I'm sure some of you guys can answer easily. My 1971 Ford 2000 did not have any headlights when I bought it. Also the switch on the dash that I assume worked the headlights is frozen up. This fall when I start to restore my tractor, I want to put in the proper grille that has the openings for the headlights and then new headlights. I also want to install a work light at the back of the tractor. Question #1: Do I need to install a relay with the headlights or just wire them to a new switch. Question #2: Does anyone happen to have a wiring diagram on this tractor that you could post on here. My tachometer and hour gauge are not working either, and if I could look at how they are supposed to be wired, I might figure out the problem. Thanks in advance for your help.
CharlieS
Gold Member
If you use relays, you are assured of full brightness in the lights and can run lighter guage wire to the control switch(s) as well as not needing higher amperage rated switches.
Tach and hour meter are internally connected and are cable driven, you've probably got a broken cable. On an old 2000 model i had years ago i found the proper size speedometer cable to replace a broken one.
As far as headlights, i'm not aware of any of the 2000 series having grill mounted headlights, Though i could be wrong i think all of those models had external lights mounted on the side of the hood at the front. At least all the 2000's i've seen. If they did do grill mounted lights, good luck finding the parts, I've been hunting a left side grill mounted light housing for a late 90's 3430 for a couple of years now, ford/new holland lists it as no longer available so i'd guess your era tractor has few cosmetic parts dealer available.
Tach and hour meter are internally connected and are cable driven, you've probably got a broken cable. On an old 2000 model i had years ago i found the proper size speedometer cable to replace a broken one.
As far as headlights, i'm not aware of any of the 2000 series having grill mounted headlights, Though i could be wrong i think all of those models had external lights mounted on the side of the hood at the front. At least all the 2000's i've seen. If they did do grill mounted lights, good luck finding the parts, I've been hunting a left side grill mounted light housing for a late 90's 3430 for a couple of years now, ford/new holland lists it as no longer available so i'd guess your era tractor has few cosmetic parts dealer available.
whodat526
Veteran Member
the grille with the headlight holes was only for oversees tractor not the american market. the american 2000's had the headlights bolted to the outsides of the radiator shell and had a solid grille there should be two wholes one in each side of the radiator shell where the lights will bolt
the tachometer and hour meter runs off of a cable that connects to the back of the gen. and runs up to the tach. no wires there the tach. drive gear is most likely stripped in the back of the gen. or the cable is broke how u can test is unscrew the cable from the gen. and turn the cable and see if teh tach moves any
as for the 3430
83959697 is the part number for the HEADLAMP and cost 112 bucks from messicks
and the bezel part number is 83987040 and is 66 bucks from messicks
the tachometer and hour meter runs off of a cable that connects to the back of the gen. and runs up to the tach. no wires there the tach. drive gear is most likely stripped in the back of the gen. or the cable is broke how u can test is unscrew the cable from the gen. and turn the cable and see if teh tach moves any
as for the 3430
83959697 is the part number for the HEADLAMP and cost 112 bucks from messicks
and the bezel part number is 83987040 and is 66 bucks from messicks
Thanks for the information on headlight relay and the tach/hour meter. As for the headlight mount, I'm like you. I thought all of the 2000 series that year model had external lights mounted on the side of the front crowling. I even looked at several photos on Flickr and other places and most of them showed the lights externally mounted. But my tractor has no holes where any were ever mounted there. It has a home-made grille out of wire mesh, so I don't know what girlle it's supposed to have. I just came to the conclusion that it originally had the grille mounted headlights, unless the crowling has been changed or something. Anyway, I plan to go with the new grille and grille mount lights. I just don't know too much about the relay part of it or what purpose it plays. Thanks again!
whodat526
Veteran Member
the grille mount light assembley's will be kind of hard to find but can be done but the light switch should have a inline fuse built on the side of the hot wire that comes from the bat. to the switch the fuse is already made on the wire of the switch
Okay, thanks for all the information. I guess I've either got an overseas tractor or else the radiator casing has been changed. Is there any way to tell where the tractor was made. I have the following numbers that I found.
1F21B, which according to the chart I found is the year model, and production date. (1971, June 21, day shift). The only other number I could find was under the above number and is C305990. Does that tell anyone anything?
1F21B, which according to the chart I found is the year model, and production date. (1971, June 21, day shift). The only other number I could find was under the above number and is C305990. Does that tell anyone anything?
Soundguy
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relay not needed 14awg wire is fine for those 55w lamps.
tach is driven off the generator.. you still got one?
get power for lamps off the smae tab feeding ignition switch.. use a fused switch.. 2 position is great.. 1 out for headlamps.. all the way out, head and rear... can wire up a red lamp in t he rear with the headlamps.
wire grounds to them.. don't trust rusty sheetmetal.
soundguy
tach is driven off the generator.. you still got one?
get power for lamps off the smae tab feeding ignition switch.. use a fused switch.. 2 position is great.. 1 out for headlamps.. all the way out, head and rear... can wire up a red lamp in t he rear with the headlamps.
wire grounds to them.. don't trust rusty sheetmetal.
soundguy
Yeah, the tractor does still have a generator and I can see where the tach and hour meter go into it. From all I can determine about the numbers I've found on the tractor, it was made in USA, but whodat says if the lights are in the grill, it was made overseas. Unless the front crowl has been changed or something, I'm dumbfounded. It does not have any holes where lights used to be mounted on the crowling, nor has it been patch where any might have been.
whodat526
Veteran Member
on the bellhousing there is three rows of numbers and in the bottom row the numbers will start with a, b, or c and since u say it has a c it is a american tractor made in romeo michigan but even though the shell doesn't have the wholes does mean its be changed because even the ones made over sees had the wholes if they had lights some of the 2000 didn't come with head lights so no whole all u have to do is drill a 1/2 in. whole in the shell to put the light
Okay that makes more sense to me, because I'm sure it's USA made and I'm sure it doesn't have any holes where lights were mounted so it must have come from the factory without headlights. Now that makes me wonder why it has a switch on the dash that sure looks like a headlight switch. Oh well, I guess it's no big deal. I'll just put me some lights on it an a new switch and be done with it. Thanks again!!
Soundguy
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it's not a huge mystery.. new front uni-fit nose clip is 400$ and is not punched for lamps.
you can put in an overseas grill in it too.. any or all parts of the hood might have been swapped from another machine.. etc.. etc.
seen alot of mis matched tin in my tractor days...
I personally used a later 3600 grill in my 3000 because I like dthe look, and I put my headlaps on the bumper in front of it because I spent 500$ in new nose metal and didn't want to drill it. from the front if 10' away.. my 3000 looks like an overseas model due to t he lamps looking inset to the grill when they are actually just an inch or two in front of it.. etc.
do what you want.. tractor don't care.. whatever makes ya happy and you think looks nice.
soundguy
you can put in an overseas grill in it too.. any or all parts of the hood might have been swapped from another machine.. etc.. etc.
seen alot of mis matched tin in my tractor days...
I personally used a later 3600 grill in my 3000 because I like dthe look, and I put my headlaps on the bumper in front of it because I spent 500$ in new nose metal and didn't want to drill it. from the front if 10' away.. my 3000 looks like an overseas model due to t he lamps looking inset to the grill when they are actually just an inch or two in front of it.. etc.
do what you want.. tractor don't care.. whatever makes ya happy and you think looks nice.
soundguy
whodat526
Veteran Member
all the new aftermarket shells i have had has the holes drilled for lights
I guess if I can find the correct lights for it, I'll drill the holes and add the lights on the radiator shell then because the grille, even though it's not original, looks okay, just needs painting. Or I may go ahead and order a new grille too, without the light holes in it. One more thing I remember concerning the headlight relay. On the International 404 I restored a year or so ago, I wired the headlights up directly to a new two position, fused switch, with flashing lights on the rear and when I turned them on, the burned for only a few seconds and then blew the fuse. I replaced the fuse but they still wouldn't work, so I checked the new two position switch I'd put in and it appeared to not be working either. Could not having a relay wired in have caused all that?
twoone
Silver Member
big yes the load on the switch was to high for the wattage. You should have used relays.I dont know what size lamps you used but a 30 amp relay if you are running 55 watt lamps along with a 10 amp fuse. again you will need to know what the load is. Paul
CharlieS
Gold Member
Except that every time i check messicks doesnt have the left side in stock, nor does anyone else i've researched.
whodat526
Veteran Member
just because they dont have one in stock dont mean they cant get one that is not a part most dealers will stock because u just dont sell to many of them
CharlieS
Gold Member
except they show right side in stock so i'd presume they'd want to stock left side also.
not to say they can't get it but why not stock both? keeping only one side of a slow moving item and not the other makes no sense.
Soundguy
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last nose I bought, can't remember if mine came from A&I or Sparex.. but my nose had no punchings or drillings for lamps.. not even dimples or blanks. The nost was a 2000/3000 = 2600/3600 nose universal, cut to fit job. IE.. it fit a x600 as was.. to fit to a 000 without a front oil cooelr you had to cut out the 2 stub cooler lines, and cut a 3/8" bushing off the inner side on the right side where it mounts to the bolster. just 5 minutes with a die grinder.. etc.
methinks it was designed with the overseas grill inmind for front lamps.. not side lamps.
soundguy
Soundguy
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you guys are going way way overboard with this relay stuff.
ford didn't use them oem.. not needed.. waste of time and money.
all a relay lets you do is use small wire to a switch and large wire to a laod from the bat. since the bat is perched right near the sash cowling, you gain NOTHING using a relay... you are talking 6" more wire.
a 55w lamp at 12v draws a massive 4.6 amps I use a 15a fuse on a circuit with 2 lamps, and a 20a fuse if it has 3 lamps. 2 lamps is 9.2a 3 is 13.8a stub wires of 14awg are similar to what the oem lamp harnes would have been.
14awg wire , single runs are fine for these amperages. most replacement headlamp pull switches are rated for 20a.
this relay stuff is hilarious though....
soundguy
whodat526
Veteran Member
could be must've come from sparex but all the ones i get from a&i they have wholes
