The myth of the "Easy Remove Deck".

   / The myth of the "Easy Remove Deck". #2  
I have a heck of a time removing the deck on my LT1050 (2007). Those big "spring clips" don't seem to budge. Anyone have tricks of the trade to share?
If you are talking about the 'J" shaped spring loaded pins on back of the deck, I lift the deck to get the weight off of the pins and rotate the pins while pulling them out.

Aaron Z
 
   / The myth of the "Easy Remove Deck". #4  
from yer manual:
• Place the PTO/Blade Engage knob in the
disengaged (OFF) position and engage the parking
brake.
• Lower the deck by moving the deck lift lever into the
bottom notch on the right fender.
• Remove the deck belt from around the tractor’s
electric PTO clutch (refer to Changing the Deck Belt ).
• Looking at the cutting deck from the left side of the
tractor, locate the deck support pin on the rear left
side of the deck.
• Rotate the pin slightly toward the rear of the tractor
and release the pin into the hole provided.
• Pull the deck support pin outward to release the
deck from the deck lift arm.......

(by fully lowering the deck first, you are taking the weight off those pins as
the deck will rest on it's gage wheels...)
 
   / The myth of the "Easy Remove Deck". #5  
Yep, follow the manual and lift/giggle the deck as you work those pins. They will pull right out as they should when you do this.

Funny you should mention this. I was just talking to a dude at work who was complaining about how sore and knuckle-busted he was from trying to remove the blades from "under" his riding mower, with the deck STILL on the machine?!?! This is a highly compensated plant electrician. I just kinda moon-walked right out of the conversation.
 
   / The myth of the "Easy Remove Deck". #8  
Rickstir:

You are getting good advice about letting the deck down all the way. I do this on concrete.....throw the belt.....pull the pins.......raise the forward link.....1 minute and it's off and out. Oh and cut the wheels hard to the left if removing from the right or vice versa.

Good luck sir.

Rickey.
 
   / The myth of the "Easy Remove Deck". #9  
I do it on the garage concrete floor and slide deck out easily !
Pete
 
   / The myth of the "Easy Remove Deck". #10  
Trust us...it gets easier the more times you do it. Sometimes with new equipment it's best to do it by the book.
 
   / The myth of the "Easy Remove Deck". #11  
Trust us...it gets easier the more times you do it. Sometimes with new equipment it's best to do it by the book.

Given the grass conditions earlier this year I've become all too familiar with the procedure. After 2 deck belts and 1 PTO belt I can't start the process without the ritual profanity.
 
   / The myth of the "Easy Remove Deck". #12  
I thought the same until I tried and worked on the deck. Now they move with ease. I'm sure you have sprayed them with WD40 or something, take one hand and lift the deck a bit, almost jiggling it while you pull on the small handle attached to the clips. The weight of the deck keeps the tension too high to pull open the springs. I wear gloves to get a better grip when doing that.

The real "MF" is the belt tension spring. Comes off easy, getting it back on takes arm strength that my old back can't support. Always seems to take me 30 minutes and a lot of sweat and curse words. Good luck.


Oops, just saw a bunch of the same advice. Sorry, late night insomnia from back pains, didn't wait for the whole thread to pop up. All sage advice here, especially about lowering deck, putting it on concrete. I for one never have "giggled" while working on these God forsaken Cub Cadets. Will not own another.
 
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   / The myth of the "Easy Remove Deck". #13  
The deck on my RZT54 has the same J bolts. The deck comes out pretty easily. I changed the blades this year with the deck still on as well. I rode the front end up on my Rhino Ramps and used a short piece of 2x4 to hold each blade while I removed them. This procedure worked out pretty well for me. I personally prefer this method over removing the entire deck.
 

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