Tore bellows boot on steering linkage....

[Coyote machine]

Somehow I seem to have hit the bellows boot on the right front steering linkage and tore it wide open. Probably couldn't have done if I had tried, but managed it without even knowing it was happening.
Now I'm seeking any solutions / alternatives to replacing the entire assembly, which my dealer says costs around $109.

I know car manufacturers have aftermarket boots for CV joints that allow one to remove the old boot without disassembling the steering rack, etc.
Has anyone know of a similar type of setup for this application?

If there is no alternative to complete removal and installation of a new bellows boot; any thoughts on how to keep the adjustments and not throw the front end out of alignment in the process of R & R?

 

[Baby Grand]

Is the boot on the outer end of the link or the ineer? Can you post a picture of the area where the damage occured?

 

[Highbeam]

The DK40 must be unique. The only rubber the CK line has down there is the tie rod end boots. Mine have been torn for years.

 

[Coyote machine]

It's NOT the tie rod boot. It's the bellows boot further in toward the center of the front end. It is a much larger boot that covers the end of the arm coming from the tie rod to the power steering rack. No pics, yet- but maybe if I can find the time to take and post some.

 

[tnewbern]

As for the keeping the front end alignment.

Mark the locking nut and fitting if not already done (mine has marks from the factory). Lossen the locking nut until it bottoms out on the ram counting each trun past the marks. Make sure the fitting does not move while doing this. Make a note of the number of turns as you will use this to get back to the same spot.

Now you can remove the fitting and lock nut to replace the boot. Once you have the new boot in place install the lock nut to the bottom position and count out the turns to return it to the correct position. Now you can reinstall the end fitting and fine turn the alignment marks. This should put you back at the exact location before removal.

Hope this helps.

Tom

 

[Coyote machine]

Tom,
Thanks for the description of the process- it's been a long time since I had to do anything like a steering linkage repair. I want to make sure I don't screw up and chew up my industrial tires on this puppy:confused2::thumbsup:
Seems I do more damage, like tearing the boot, I'm not even aware of until later when doing routine inspections of the tractor... Maybe I've got gremlins sneaking into my garage at night trying to keep my dealer parts guy busy:laughing:

 

[tnewbern]

Anytime I am glad I could help. Let me know how it goes.

With any toy (tool) or other the easiest part is the purchase. I don't care what brand or type if you use it you will break it. Just be glad this time its an easy cheap fix.

So many just call the "guy" and be done with it. Not to many of those around this forum though (Thank God). In the end paying the "guy" is usually cheaper but in my opinion just no fun. Life is the journey not the 6' plot in the end. If I have it my way I will dig that too.

 

[dennis52]

Tom,
Thanks for the description of the process- it's been a long time since I had to do anything like a steering linkage repair. I want to make sure I don't screw up and chew up my industrial tires on this puppy:confused2::thumbsup:
Seems I do more damage, like tearing the boot, I'm not even aware of until later when doing routine inspections of the tractor... Maybe I've got gremlins sneaking into my garage at night trying to keep my dealer parts guy busy:laughing:

At inspection,I thought I had torn a rubber ride on mower shield and couldn't remember doing it.

Then realised it was chewed by vermin; probably rats.

And yes, the shed was loaded with poison. Even more now.

 

[Highbeam]

It is one of those maintenance things to check and adjust the alignment. There's a toe spec. This would be a good time to measure to sure that it is right on.

 

[tnewbern]

Unless you do a lot of on road driving I would not worry about it much.

The Service Manual calls for 2~8mm toe-in. They changed the steering system from what is in the SM. The original system was 2 single action cylinders in front and a tie rod in the rear. Our tractors have a single double action cylinder in the front and no tie rod. This should not affect the specs only how the adjustment is performed.

 

[tnewbern]

Ok Coyote Machine either you are bad luck or this is a poor design. While pushing some brush into the woods at a friend of mines I performed the same customization to the steering bellows.

I saw it happen ran over a small branch and wathc ed wrap around the axle. I thought I should get out and remove that before something happens. Na let me just back up and see what happens. Well it started to unwind then oh noooooo. Yep you guessed it. The little brang unwrapped itself right between the guard and steerning rod.

So if you have not undertaken the repair yet I will post a couple of picture when I get the part. I will order tomorrow.

Tom

 

[Coyote machine]

Tnewbern,
Bad luck, no; poor design, possibly. I think it's about lack of driving skills:laughing:

And no, I haven't yet received the part. It seems one has to buy the entire linkage from tie-rod end to where it connects to the steering rod. Not a cheap fix, unfortunately.

Show me the pics:thumbsup:

 

[tnewbern]

Fair enough I lack driving skills so whats your excuss. I would put a smilies here but could not figues out which is sarcasm.

Your right about needing to order the whole ball joint assembly. That is crazy but I ordered one anyway ($145) not cheap but seems reasonable for the complete ball joint.

I am not going to change it though until I see signs of a problem. There is no point in replacing the joint just because the boot is torn. Yeah it might not outlive a joint with an intact boot lesson learned. Maybe by the time it lets go I will have the necessary driving skills to avoid damaging the new one (insert smilies here). Sorry but you may have to wait for the details and pics.

 

[Coyote machine]

I just wrapped my boot and arm area with a plastic bag for now to keep out dirt, the enemy of functional joints. I think I might be able to do something similar but better with Grace roofing underlayment to seal the boot from water and dirt. Lighten up dude- the driving skills thing was a joke on both our abilities to stay out of trouble. The design could be better in my opinion to protect against the possibility of tears like ours.
Too bad the boot isn't available as a retrofit like CV joints on some cars.

 

[tnewbern]

I got the joke and fancied my witty retort in jest. That was the nature of the sarcasm smilies. Using sarcasm in the ironic sense as you and I both tore our boots.

Now I don't care who you are that right there is funny. Just in case you did not get that its Larry The Cable Guy.

I guess I just have a poor sense of humor. Oh and by the way I do lack people skills I am an engineer its my nature.

Maybe this will help YouTube - ‪Dilbert - The Knack full‬‏.

The full version is better but you may not want to sit through all that. http://youtu.be/TirAmOFw_WA

 

[Coyote machine]

Got it! I guess we are just missing our individual senses of humor- it's sometimes hard to perceive the intended meaning on the net.
I get the engineer thing - my son is at RPI, was in computer science/engineering, now switched to business management- he's better suited to it. Nearly went for an M.E. at Farleigh, years ago but came to VT instead. Ended up with a Master's in Applied Psychology later on.

 

[Illini22]

You can add me to the steering cylinder bellows (or boot). Is there any new info on a repair, or you still need to buy the whole cylinder just for the boot? It would be nice if there were some mind of a split boot repair.

 

[Coyote machine]

I tore mine early on in it's life when turned to lock on either direction the boot is vunerable because it extends beyond the shield, when it's needed most !
My still functioning repair was to pack the boot full of grease, wrap it with a bag, use heavy duty duct tape to hold it all together, and check it for leakage. So far, hundreds of hours on the fix and no problems.:dance1:

 

[Illini22]

Glad to hear it's still working! I may try putting a zippered heat shrink over it. They are used to repair URD electric services. We also have a split jell filled repair but they are a little smaller. Duct tape may just be the better simpler way thou.

 

[Coyote machine]

I wouldn't over think it. So long as it keeps the joint greased that's enuf. You could use an old inner tube from a bicycle, or similar and cut it so that it could be wrapped over the area in circles like a hockey stick handle, to allow flex while containing the grease. Hold the ends in place with cable ties under duct tape. Simple and done.