Kubota L4400 Bent Front End Loader Dump Cylinder UHOH

[wdchyd]

Randall,

Sometimes cutting off the cross tubes from the old cyls works best.....also helps if you need to tweek length for center to center distance when retracted.....

but in your case you'll need the cross tube for the one good cyl to sell it....

You could always make another cross tube to match the good one (or I could send you the one in my scrap barrel)

 

[wdchyd]

Even the tail of the old cyl can be cut off and rewelded to the new cyl (after cutting off base cross tube)

IMHO, That would be the closest to OEM as you'll get

 

[dex3361]

Randall,

Sometimes cutting off the cross tubes from the old cyls works best.....also helps if you need to tweek length for center to center distance when retracted.....

but in your case you'll need the cross tube for the one good cyl to sell it....

You could always make another cross tube to match the good one (or I could send you the one in my scrap barrel)

I hadn't thought about cutting the cylinder and welding but it is a thought. I looked at the cylinder that LD1 recommended but the retracted length is not quite short enough. The L4400 is lacking in the rollback angle and if I go any longer on the retracted length It will make it worse. I may have to cut and weld a bit to get exactly what I need. But it is not going to be a $600 dollar cylinder if I can help it.

 

[wdchyd]

In my experience I always try to match up the stroke as close as you can get......then after purchasing the new cyls then make up the rest by cutting and welding whatever you need to achieve the center to center distance collapsed......

That way when the cyls are retracted the geometery won't change when tilting the bucket back in......

Unfortunately you won't know exactly what you need till you see the new cyls in front of you...

 

[dex3361]

Even the tail of the old cyl can be cut off and rewelded to the new cyl (after cutting off base cross tube)

IMHO, That would be the closest to OEM as you'll get

Might be the route to go. What would you want for the cylinder parts that you have? If they are the right dimensions I could order the cylinder that LD1 suggested. I have a call in to Baileys to see if the ports are on the sides of the cylinder or on opposite sides as shown here on their site one way might work and the other will not. Baileys
Specifically this Cylinder

 

[dex3361]

The other cylinder that I am looking at is a a Baileys Maxim cylinder and the stroke is a little better and the retracted length 26" verses 26 7/8" the 7/8 of an inch is a lot of rollback on this FEL.

 

[wdchyd]

If you weld a new/used tail on the cyl then you can put the ports where you want without disturbing the factory welded ports (another benefit)....:thumbsup:

I'll measure those parts later accurately to make sure they are the same and send them UPS....

Just ask you pick up the UPS tab......

 

[wdchyd]

Cross head (rod side): 50mm dia x 2.250 wide w/ 1.014 pin hole (for 1.000" pin)

Cyl barrel side: 60mm dia w/ 1.014" pin hole (center of pin 1" from end, see pic).......do you want the weld machined off or just leave it longer than it has to be..??

 

[cowski]

i like to save money ,when i can. but if you can not match the cylinder,then i would buy the new one from kubota .

 

[dex3361]

Cross head (rod side): 50mm dia x 2.250 wide w/ 1.014 pin hole (for 1.000" pin)

Cyl barrel side: 60mm dia w/ 1.014" pin hole (center of pin 1" from end, see pic).......do you want the weld machined off or just leave it longer than it has to be..??

Cross head on the rod is 2.75" and on the cylinder barrel it is 2.375" so they do not quite match what I have. Man do they set out to make things this oddball or what? Any other thoughts? If your cylinder ends would have fit I was going to get the surplus cylinder and cut and weld to an exact fit. But hey if it was easy anybody could do it right? Bill appreciate all of you input and suggestions, Thanks. It always helps to have someone to bounce ideas around with.:thumbsup:

 

[wdchyd]

If you check the dia of the cyl barrel they may be the same cuz 60 mm is 2.360 (or thereabouts)

the rod cross head dia is 50 mm (1.968) x 2.25 on the one I have here....

If you give me the exact dimensions I could make one with a piece of metric chrome stock.....or if you have a lathe then you could make one yourself....

IMHO, it would be better to make it fit...but then again I have the technology.....

do the cyls you are looking at have 1.000" pins....if so then spacers would only be needed....and you'll have to deal with the port placement....

 

[dex3361]

If you check the dia of the cyl barrel they may be the same cuz 60 mm is 2.360 (or thereabouts)

the rod cross head dia is 50 mm (1.968) x 2.25 on the one I have here....

If you give me the exact dimensions I could make one with a piece of metric chrome stock.....or if you have a lathe then you could make one yourself....

IMHO, it would be better to make it fit...but then again I have the technology.....

do the cyls you are looking at have 1.000" pins....if so then spacers would only be needed....and you'll have to deal with the port placement....

Yes the cylinders have 1" pins and that is what I was thinking to use spacers on the front gap and trim the cross tube down in the rear. I do not have a lathe. I feel like I could weld the parts up but alas I have no lathe. I would rather try to find a cylinder that is a good replacement fit. I have the Maxim cylinder dimensions and am going to look closely at how it would effect the rollback and dump movement. If I cant make do with the stock maxim cylinder I will get the surplus cylinder and start cutting and welding the original cylinder LD1 recomended.

 

[dex3361]

Well I spent some time looking closely at the cylinders and the movement and such. I found a different issue that may very well be instrumental to the cylinder failure. The rod of the cylinders hit the bottom most part of the boom in full dump mode. It appears that the SS Quick Detach has the movement stop made onto it. The cylinder rod hits the boom before it hits the limit stops. Here are a few pics of what I am talking about. I also have a call in to the Kubota dealer to get his opinion and see if this is supposed to be. It doesn't look right to me. I checked everything and nothing is bent and all pins are tight. If you look closely you can see where the rod has been hitting the boom. All thoughts and comments appreciated.

 

[dex3361]

Any thoughts anybody?

 

[Chilly807]

Well, I've seen something like this on a New Holland compact.. as I recall the bucket stops were either beat flat or were too thin to prevent the rod from touching the loader arms at full dump position.

I'll have a look at my 463 arms tomorrow, although it's a different loader than the 703.

Incidentally, I straightened a bent cylinder rod yesterday, pretty much the same size you have. It turned out pretty good, luckily there was no damage to the gland or the cylinder itself.

Sean

 

[dex3361]

Well, I've seen something like this on a New Holland compact.. as I recall the bucket stops were either beat flat or were too thin to prevent the rod from touching the loader arms at full dump position.

I'll have a look at my 463 arms tomorrow, although it's a different loader than the 703.

Incidentally, I straightened a bent cylinder rod yesterday, pretty much the same size you have. It turned out pretty good, luckily there was no damage to the gland or the cylinder itself.

Sean

You were fortunate that you were able to straighten the rod. How did you bend it?

 

[Chilly807]

It was the power angle cylinder for a rear blade, too long to begin with. It was overextended and bent around the pivot point of the blade.

Sean

 

[Chilly807]

I found the other thread with the rod touching the loader arm.. I think that part starts around post # 12.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/202945-dented-cylinder-2.html

Sean

 

[john m]

northern tool has good cylinder prices. i got 2" with 1" pins welded (not tie rod) with a 16" stroke for $79.99 each + shipping and tax. they might have one there you need.

 

[dex3361]

northern tool has good cylinder prices. i got 2" with 1" pins welded (not tie rod) with a 16" stroke for $79.99 each + shipping and tax. they might have one there you need.

I am currently waiting to hear from the Kubota rep. to see if they can help me out here with the issue.