R-Panel Roofing ... Nail/Screw where?

[blueriver]

I ordered the r-panel for the barn roof today ... they suggested nail or screw on the flat and use self taping screws on the overlap ... what ya think?

 

[kennyd]

Mine is screwed on the flat, about 1" away from the rib. Lots of info on the Fabral website. All holes where pre-drilled through the panels-about 5 at a time while they where still on the ground.

 

[ustmd]

I ordered the r-panel for the barn roof today ... they suggested nail or screw on the flat and use self taping screws on the overlap ... what ya think?

On the flat...I know it seem counter-intuitive

 

[Tig]

Just finishing a steel roof. Screws are on the rib where ever possible. Of course that's not the only way to do it, it's just the way they are done around here and it's consistent with the manufacturers instructions.
Search the forums and you'll find at least one other discussion. Seems to me that the consensus at TBN is to screw on the flat.

 

[KennyG]

All the instructions I have ever seen say fasten through the flat next to each rib except the overlap rib. Screw through the overlap rib. Screws much better than nails. The most important things are probably to avoid scratching the surface and not overcompressing the washers.

 

[beppington]

I've nailed on top of the ribs, & I don't recommend that: In order to get the nails sufficiently tight it squishes the rib a little but also buckles up the flat.

Since then I saw that professional roofers using screws screwed them in on the flats on my parents' home's roof.

 

[2manyrocks]

One of the guys here posted that it depends on the gauge of the metal. Some of the panels aren't thick enough to be screwed in the rib without bending and that's why they are screwed on the flat near the rib.

 

[bikerdib]

I was an iron working foreman for lots of years and also put up lots of steel frame buildings with "R" and "U" panel. The blueprints from the steel manufacturers specify the screw holding the panel to the steel be placed in the flat and lap screws are of course on the rib. The lap screws will not attach the sheet to the frame. If you are going into wood there are special screws for that and you will use a different type of screw for lapping. We would predrill a bundle of the sheets using clamps to hold all the bundle together. You don't necessarily need to predrill the attachment holes in the sheets (although we did) but I recommend at least predrilling all lap holes on one edge. You will clamp the entire bundle of sheets, measure and mark the drill points along one edge then drill through the entire bundle. Make sure you drill through straight. You want to drill the edge that will overlap the previous sheet when you place them on the frame. In other words, the edge with the predrilled holes will go on top of the sheet you placed previously.

One final point, I would not recommend nailing. Use screws designed for wood that have a rubber seal and washer. Screws won't work loose like nails will. I've seen lots of sheds that were nailed, even those using screw shank nails and they tend pull loose over time.

 

[tcreeley]

Did my barn and house with metal ribbed - pro style- MMS. I put two screws between each set of ribs - for each 2x4 set in 16 oc runs across the roof. Theres a bit of wind and driven snow in Maine. I did it myself. I predrilled the holes. A shortcut is to predrill but not all the way- then use the self tapping screw. If your hole predrilling is too small - it will strip off the zinc coating on the screw as you drill it. Just self tapping gives an awful burr as the steel lifts up in a circle as the screw starts to pull itself into the wood. It can do a job on the washer which over time is more likely to let water in. I never put a screw on the rib overlaps. The screw has no resistance to work against to hold the panel down tight. In snow country- with a foot of snow sitting on the roof- that's asking for small leaks around the screw hole.
If I miss the wood beneath pre drilling- I fill the hole with auto goop and hope for the best. In snow country use the foam fillers under the ribs and panels. When I did my barn I didn't and every windy snow storm there's a dusting inside. I filled these with spray foam- but that stuff expands and can lift the panel.
Metal roofing beats anything else in my book! Get your self electric sheers for when you need to cut it - save a lot of trouble.
Good luck.

 

[blueriver]

So ... the storm that passed thru took my neighors barn ... roof panels went off like a greased pig, screwed on, left the purlins. The barn on the same place about 25 yards away nailed on stood fine ... and it was 20 years older.

I know ... wind damage seems to pick and choose ?

 

[beppington]

So ... the storm that passed thru took my neighors barn ... roof panels went off like a greased pig, screwed on, left the purlins. The barn on the same place about 25 yards away nailed on stood fine ... and it was 20 years older.

I know ... wind damage seems to pick and choose ?

Definitely. Strong winds here a week or two ago, knocked over 3 healthy oak trees in the middle of a thick forest of healthy oak trees. Why those 3? :confused2:

 

[BRBurns]

I've done 2 barns with it. I used screws on the flats. I did not predrill, but it does leave a pit of a burr. SS screws going into treated lumber (predrill those). I did not screw the overlap, but had a screw on each side of the overlap ridge. The rest of the ridges I only used 1 screw.

 

[allenr]

Dunno wether you've got the screws yet, but make sure the coating is Class 3 or, better yet Class 4.

I've got a 100 x50 foot shed where the screws used were the gold passivated Class 2 and they all need replacement. I've bought the screws but now to find the time!