ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks!

/ ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #1  

moose13

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Apr 15, 2011
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Somewhere USA
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Alright, i have decided to build my own splitter after much research and tire kicking.
Here is what i have figured.

View Shopping Cart | Northern Tool + Equipment

Honda 160cc GX series
Haldex 11gpm 2 stage pump
Nortrack 3000psi 4x24 cylinder
Prince detent splitter valve
Hydraulic filter assy.
Couplings and bracket for engine to pump.
$842.00

i know i need hoses, fittings and a few misc parts, but does this look about right as far as specs?
I did consider a 200cc Honda and a 16gpm pump, is it worth it?

Thanks for looking this over before i pull the trigger on the parts.
I will keep you updated on the build.
 
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/ ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #2  
Alright, i have decided to build my own splitter after much research and tire kicking.
Here is what i have figured.

View Shopping Cart | Northern Tool + Equipment

Honda 160cc GX series
Haldex 11gpm 2 stage pump
Nortrack 3000psi 4x24 cylinder
Prince detent splitter valve
Hydraulic filter assy.
Couplings and bracket for engine to pump.
$842.00

i know i need hoses, fittings and a few misc parts, but does this look about right as far as specs?
I did consider a 200cc Honda and a 16gpm pump, is it worth it?

Thanks for looking this over before i pull the trigger on the parts.
I will keep you updated on the build.

looks about what I have, get as large of a rod in the cylinder as you can find, (I personally wish I had gone a little larger on the cylinder, (I split elm mostly and when in a crotch or some other oddity some times I stall out, but usually after some trial and error I get it split down,) on normal grain no problems,

I sure you have a reservoir figured out,

I made mine as a separate hydraulic pack that can be removed from the splitter, and used for other items, with some quick connects, I run a wire roller with it, and have used to move machinery by operating the machines cylinder and using a truck to move it, a winch, and other things, (some times the two stage pump is not the best for the power pack but some times it is great),
 
/ ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks!
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks for the reply!
Yeah i have figured i would make the reservoir between the tires like most are built. I think i have a piece of 12" tubing that would work. 2" rod instead of 1.75? I split all standing dead pine. So i don't need a monster as far as tonnage. Looking for something fairly quick though. I have the design and welding down, just figured i would double check with the experts on the parts. Thanks!
 
/ ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #4  
wood spliter -I used northern for parts I have a 16 hp koehler 28 gpm barns 2 stage pump direct mount 6x24 cylinder and a log lift table made this about 40 years ago split lots of wood ps dont let it out unless to like to fix others stupid moves. if I was going to make another one I wound not change any thing,
 
/ ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #5  
Thanks for the reply!
Yeah i have figured i would make the reservoir between the tires like most are built. I think i have a piece of 12" tubing that would work. 2" rod instead of 1.75? I split all standing dead pine. So i don't need a monster as far as tonnage. Looking for something fairly quick though. I have the design and welding down, just figured i would double check with the experts on the parts. Thanks!

If your lookin for somthing (fairly quick),...You need to step up to 16 gpm and 8-9 hp, 11 gpm is going to be sloooow, even in pine, The 16 gpm pump is about 40.00 more,. The 8hp I/C ohv briggs is not much more than the 5hp honda, For about 100.00 bucks it would speed things up about 1/3, Eric
 
/ ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #6  
Alright, i have decided to build my own splitter after much research and tire kicking.
Here is what i have figured.

View Shopping Cart | Northern Tool + Equipment

Honda 160cc GX series
Haldex 11gpm 2 stage pump
Nortrack 3000psi 4x24 cylinder
Prince detent splitter valve
Hydraulic filter assy.
Couplings and bracket for engine to pump.
$842.00

i know i need hoses, fittings and a few misc parts, but does this look about right as far as specs?
I did consider a 200cc Honda and a 16gpm pump, is it worth it?

Thanks for looking this over before i pull the trigger on the parts.
I will keep you updated on the build.

I don't remember what size hp the Honda 160CC GX Series motor is, but you can get a Harbor Freight 6.5hp for $95 this month if you have a coupon from their flyer. It looks like their online price is $99. Free shipping through April 20th. 6.5 HP Gas Engine - Horizontal Shaft, OHV It looks to be 196cc.
 
/ ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #7  
If you really want to go quicker, you would go smaller bore on ram. larger bore just means more power and slower movement. You did say all you are doing is splitting pine. What you are doing is kind of like my splitter I have right now. (no I didnt build it, got it from a yard sale.

If I have anything I can't split, I'll just take it to my fathers and use his box store big unit.
 
/ ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #8  
I guess I have to ask why you are wanting to build one using all new parts.

Usually the only time it is cheaper to build vs buy a splitter is if you already have several of the main components.

And since you are already at ~850 PLUS shipping costs,

AND you still need

Tank
Hoses
I-beam
Wedge
Axle/tires
Hitch
Jack
Lots of fabrication

I am sure I am missing something

Why not just buy a 22T splitter that is the same specs as the one you want to build. 4x24 cylinder and 11gpm pump. PLUS a 3-yr warrenty and the ability to split vertically

Huskee 22-ton Log Splitter - 1032822 | Tractor Supply Company
 
/ ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #9  
I agree with LD1.
If you have a tractor with a 3pt hitch, why not look into a 3pt hitch Splitter?
I already have a log splitter that my brother built, a really good unit, but the engine is getting tired. once it needs a new engine I will just convert it to 3 pt hitch. .....:thumbsup:
 
/ ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #10  
Moose, I agree if you go with a 4" dia. cylinder you will have no problem splitting your pine. I used a 4" x 24" cylinder with the factory set pressure relief on my energy valve at 2,500 psi. When I first built my splitter I had wings on my wedge thinking it would "pop" the wood apart faster & had a problem with an occasional piece of elm getting stuck. I cut the wings off, sharpened the wedge, and have had no further problems. To make the wedge, I cut a piece of 1/2" x 8" x 16" mild steel bar in half at a diagonal and flipped one piece over and had it follow behind the the cut edge & welded it together on to the beam. (I am a fan of the horizontal splitter where the wedge is stationary.) (I added a log lift to mine to handle the big ones. It was well worth the effort!) The angle of the wedge is about 20 degrees.
............./\ This diagram is rough but will give you the idea.
............/..\ (Please disregard the periods, I had to add them to
.........../\...\ keep the slashes from sliding to the left.) The top
........../..\...\ left edge is one of the cut edges.
........./.../\...\
......../.../..\...\
......./.../....\...\
 
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/ ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks!
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thanks for the new replies!
I know there is little to no savings here, but i will be honest with ya, i kicked a few tires on the big box store models and was not impressed at all. I am sure they would work for years to come and do the job. But, i prefer to build my own. I enjoy doing the work and already have axle, tires, I beam, jack and hitch. + any misc steel i would need. More "older" welding rod than i could ever burn. I do need to fabricate a tank but already have the steel and a plan. I am a bigger guy, 6'5 325 and many of the store bought ones are just too short. Like i said i enjoy the work and am out of projects, so why not.

I agree on the wedge design Oliver, Thanks!
 
/ ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #12  
I chose to build my own too, that way I could filter out all the things I didn't like about store bought splitters.

You'll enjoy your creation much more than a store bought.

Mostly everything (steel that is) was scavenged from a fab shop's dumpster.

The log lift is being fabbed now, it will have a 2" X 8" cyl.

The top of my I beam is 30" off the ground so I don't have to hunch over anymore.

I went with a 5" X 30" cyl
16 gpm 2 stage pump
10 hp elec start Wisconson from an old Bolens
I ran a belt driven jackshaft under the splitter over to the pump, mostly for weight distribution between the tank and motor.

Here's a pic of my wedge design. Since this pic it's been sharpened to 70 deg included angle. This thing will cross cut 6" maple.
There's no crotch or notty piece it won't go through easily.
 

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/ ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #13  
Here's the wedge welded and sharpened.

The second pic is how I ran the belts to the jackshaft and the jackshaft over to the pump.

I added a belt tensioner for cold start days. I wanted that feature in case all I had was a pull start engine. Not necessary with the elec start but it's cool and gets lots of remarks.
 

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/ ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #14  
Just a tip (if you didn't think of it)....only tack weld your axle in place till all is mounted so you can tweek it for just the right balance when lugging around......seen a few guys that made them too tongue heavy but had already welded everything solid.......:thumbsup:
 
/ ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks!
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Good lookin' splitter Deerblazer!
I was most interested in how you did the frame between the axles.
I might just use your idea!:thumbsup:
 
/ ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #16  
Anybody run a longer cylinder, like a 4x32 or 36?

Im building a splitter and am considering going with one. Likely a 36. Im going to be running approx 25-28 GPM so cycle times will be pretty quick.

I figure ill be able to split 2 16" rounds at once thereby saving time.
 
/ ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks!
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Anybody run a longer cylinder, like a 4x32 or 36?

Im building a splitter and am considering going with one. Likely a 36. Im going to be running approx 25-28 GPM so cycle times will be pretty quick.

I figure ill be able to split 2 16" rounds at once thereby saving time.

hmm interesting, i rarely split more than 12" into the round before it is good and split, so i would have to split entirely through the first and into the second. At least for me it would not save time. May work for you though.
 
/ ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #18  
Anybody run a longer cylinder, like a 4x32 or 36?

Im building a splitter and am considering going with one. Likely a 36. Im going to be running approx 25-28 GPM so cycle times will be pretty quick.

I figure ill be able to split 2 16" rounds at once thereby saving time.

If the blocks are small enough to where I would consider splitting two at once to save time, either I don't consider them big enough to split or I stack two of 'em vertically so the wedge hits both of them at the same time.
 
/ ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #19  
hmm interesting, i rarely split more than 12" into the round before it is good and split, so i would have to split entirely through the first and into the second. At least for me it would not save time. May work for you though.

Yeah most will crack at around the ~12 inches. I typically burn 16" pieces. Running the stick completely thru the wedge might reduce the "stringgy" wood that holds the pieces together. I intend on running a narrow 4 way knife wedge similar to the splitfires and the euro processors. Im also going to run the pusher as close as possible to the wedge, also to try and cut down on strings and having to place a block behind the piece being split so i can force it thru when it runs out of stroke before cracking. My current splitter stops about 3-4" ? from the wedge.

I was thinking that a long cyl might speed things up by reducing wasted time on the return. A single extension with a 4 way would make 8 pieces. Might not be a time savings though?

I did notice that most of the "premium" brands offer longer cylinders as options on their better machines, some up to 48". There got to be a reason?

I know that some with the wood doctor boilers run a longer stick, but it has me thinking.

Anybody do a longer split, like the europeans, then cut the splits after they dry? Like a 3' or 4'. Then cut up just before burning. Most times it looks like they use a small buzz saw? I know its another piece of equipment, but it might reduce a bit of handling when stacking the small 16" splits as you'd only have to handle "half" as much. Plus it would allow you to stack more in a given footprint as you wouldnt need to leave an isle between rows (well not as many isles). Just curious why we dont see this here?
 

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/ ready to order parts for splitter, please review for specs. Thanks! #20  
I welded the spindles right to the end of the tube.

I'll get some better pics posted tonight for ya'll to gander at.
 

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