Had a banner week this week...

[YannyMan]

Started out with the new engine for my 1970 GTO damaged during shipment. All kinds of parts broken, the **** thing rolled over on the tractor trailer and the shipping company tried to hide it. Luckily, my guy saw it while it was still in their warehouse and they're on the hook for it, but the poor guy that sold it to me is out all kinds of $ untill the company pays him.

Since it's going to rain this weekend, I figured I'd fire up the YM146 and throw the YCm60 on it and cut the lawn. The deck fought me the whole time, then suddenly installed like it was nothing just before I was going to quit.

I fire up the engine, low idle it, flip the PTO switch.... Nothing. I give it sdome throttle and it starts spinning, but then stops again. Never spins again, no matter what I did. So much for cutting the lawn.

I'm hanging it up for the night other than trying to get some tech help. It's been a long, long week.

 

[284 International]

Ugh, sounds like a rough week. You have my sympathy.

What kind of motor did you have built? I've got an '70 goat as well; it has a 400 in it, and (unfortunately) an automatic. You can see it in the background of some of my pictures.

 

[deepNdirt]

Sounds like you need to rewind this week and start over
does your unit have an electric PTO ? if so did you by chance have to jump start the tractor? we have 2 lawn tractors, Cub Cadet and the latest addition an older Roper, Both with electric PTO's, and if the battery is down the PTO's will not kick on, and trying to run them directly off the charging system does not work either, not enough charge amps to maintain the operation of the PTO,

 

[YannyMan]

Thanks 284. The engine that's going in it never came in a 70'.


I do have an electric PTO and I did have to jump start the tractor. I've been charging the batttery for a good hour now and I just went to make sure the gap was correct on the clutches (thanks Gary Jamieson). I adjusted the clutches and tried again, this time with the battery almost fully charged.

Nothing.


Gary also told me the resistance on the PTO side of the plug should be between 3.2 and 2.8 if its new or in good shape. Anything less and it will work intermittently, which is what this thing is doing. There were two occasions last year when it stopped on me, but then it got going again. Now I just need an Ohm meter, but it sounds like my coil is no good.

 

[284 International]

So.....what's the engine?

 

[YannyMan]

Its a secret.. :drool:

Think 850ftlbs at around 2000 rpm..

 

[284 International]

Aw, come on...don't be like that! Betcha it's a Duramax conversion..... :laughing:

 

[California]

Yannyman you won't need a transmission. Just a really good clutch!

 

[Neat 1500]

those electric clutches always give grief,apparently they can be rewound.and i reckon the GTO motor is a 455 big block.....

 

[284 International]

Neat 1500, in '70 the GTOs were available with several varieties of 400 cubic inch motors and the 455. Parts interchange for the most part between everything from the 326 up to 455. So even the "little" 326 is kind of a big block.

He said his new engine wasn't available in a '70. 421? 389? Were we speculating for real I'd guess it's a forced induction 428, or a 428 crank in a 455 block (seems like that's around 440cid?).

Come on, Yannyman, not even a teaser photo?

I hope you fix the clutch. I've never even seen one of those, so have no suggestion.

 

[YannyMan]

There are no big block or small blocks in the Pontiac world. They're just blocks. All the same external dimensions, only difference is the bore size and the main crank journal diameter. All heads post 1966 will interchange on any block. Valve size being the only thing to worry about on some combinations. Very similar to the GM LS-x design they use now.


Not a Pontiac motor going in.

 

[YannyMan]

My "old" 1970 GTO I built years ago.... It's now residing in England.

 

[284 International]

Yannyman, your old car is/was gorgeous. I've seen it, or one virtually identical, in a magazine long ago. Mine was optioned with Judge stripes, but was a very early car, so came with the '69 Judge stripes, rather than the eyebrow stripes.

I love the picture pulling the tires off the ground and the frame torquing.

So, it looks like an LS series engine? Are you keeping the air conditioning?

 

[YannyMan]

Not an ls engine either. Car will have ac and heat as well as power steering, windows, locks, rear window defrost, 05' GTO seats, C6 ZO6 brakes all the way around, ect.

 

[deepNdirt]

Not an ls engine either. Car will have ac and heat as well as power steering, windows, locks, rear window defrost, 05' GTO seats, C6 ZO6 brakes all the way around, ect.

I like the way you think (outside the box) I'm a bit of an old car person myself, I never restore a car to its original condition,more on the line of customizing them, and when taking them around to cars shows i would hear about it too, Folks would say this "ain't the way it's supposed to be" and It would be worth more if was all original..... my reply would be I'm not in it for the money but more so for the fun, and to have a car the way I like it to be, a way that the factory didn't think about or have technology to do in that era of time,
I'm a ( Mopar man ) and like getting my hands hold to A-bodies and customizing them:thumbsup:

so are you looking at a 389 Stroker EFI

 

[YannyMan]

A car is original once. That's it. Once it's gone, it's gone. I bought this car as a body shell, frame and doors, so it would cost justvas much to have a non-matching number "correct" car as one that is cool ad different.

And no, its not a stroker. Factory bore and stroke.

 

[Neat 1500]

i did the same many years ago,bought a 1 owner 1958 FC Holden(GM) with 68k miles owned by a 96 year old gent who bought it new.i wanted to restore it but ended up modifying it to the hilt.spent an absolute fortune on it (but had fun in the process) and when i sold it years later to my brother he got it for next to nothing (and destroyed it non the less) so yep if thats what you want... do it.

 

[YannyMan]

Here's the new one a she currently sits. Last year we roughed in the quarters, rockers, firewall corners, and floor patches. It's not at ride hieght yet, I was just playing around before we paved my driveway. It will most likely be lower than this.

Going to the shop in a week or two to get the body off the frame, all the welding finsihed, and the body sandblasted and put in primer.

Then we'll fit the engine and trans (if the trans comes in in time) and that will probably be it for this year. I only do a little bit every year as the budget permits.

 

[284 International]

It's coming along nicely-I like the big brakes!

I'm foiled so far ID'ing your engine. It isn't an LS, which would be the presumed conversion. It's a V configuration, and it's not Pontiac. 860 ft-lbs of torque means it is a forced induction motor, but doesn't mean it is in that configuration currently. There isn't anything to decisively say one way or the other, though there is what looks like blue silicone tubing with wire clamps at the top of the photograph, that may be supercharger ducting. That probably means aftermarket equipment.

To someone more knowledgeable than me, the placement of the A/C compressor in the valley would mean something. It looks the same as the A/C compressor on my GMC. The webbed aluminum casting means fairly recent production (less than 20 years old). It's a takeout engine.

It's hard to tell, but the valve covers appear too narrow for an overhead cam engine. That means it's not Mercedes, BMW, Ford, Jaguar, Toyota, Nissan, or Northstar/Aurora etc, but the power steering pump's reservoir has a cap that "looks" like it's from an import. The A/C pump and other things are in the wrong spot for it to be a new Hemi.

It wouldn't seem to make sense to build an LT1-type engine.

I'm stumped. Can you give us (me) a better picture, or a hint? Please?

What transmission?

 

[YannyMan]

4L85E.

The torque amount and rpm should indicate the type of fuel being burned above all else...