Loader Wheel Horse Loader, install on Yanmar

bearcreek paul · Apr 2, 2011

If you have a center drill use that to start the hole.

deepNdirt · Apr 2, 2011

Gary Sweat said:
Try using some cutting oil and a slower speed on the bit and as much pressure as you can put on it. Once the cut starts you shouldn't have any problem going through it. Like winston1 said, a smaller bit to start will make it easier.

High speed and heat will dull a drill bit very quickly.

X-2 although not all titanium bits are created equal, the cheap china made ones that you find comes in a nice little case are hardly good for lightweight sheet metal,

if these are the ones you have? stop waisting your time and go to your local NAPA and buy a couple good steel bits, it would still be best to use a cutting oil :thumbsup: I have 25 year old Bits , when they start to get a little dull I'll put them in my power bit sharpener that'll get back in shape,

as far as I know the titanium bits cannot be re-sharpened,

mtm88001 · Apr 2, 2011

Gary Sweat said:
Try using some cutting oil and a slower speed on the bit and as much pressure as you can put on it. Once the cut starts you shouldn't have any problem going through it. Like winston1 said, a smaller bit to start will make it easier.

High speed and heat will dull a drill bit very quickly.

I didn't know that, I was using High speed thinking .... not thinking

I was using a hand held drill, that stinks.. Going to TSC today, going to by me a drill press and some new bits.

Can't ever have to many toys.

mtm88001 · Apr 2, 2011

deepNdirt said:
X-2 although not all titanium bits are created equal, the cheap china made ones that you find comes in a nice little case are hardly good for lightweight sheet metal, if these are the ones you have? stop waisting your time and go to your local NAPA and buy a couple good steel bits, it would still be best to use a cutting oil :thumbsup: I have 25 year old Bits , when they start to get a little dull I'll put them in my power bit sharpener that'll get back in shape, as far as I know the titanium bits cannot be re-sharpened,

I'll stop by NAPA and pick some up along with some cutting oil, thanks guys

284 International · Apr 2, 2011

If you can get the part under a drill press, it will be a lot cheaper (and faster) to take it to someone who already has the equipment and just let them drill it. You'll like having a drill press, though, if you do much drilling into metal. This is an interesting thread, I've enjoyed watching the progress. You're coming along nicely, keep up the good work!

Kernopelli · Apr 2, 2011

deepNdirt said:
X-2 although not all titanium bits are created equal, the cheap china made ones that you find comes in a nice little case are hardly good for lightweight sheet metal, if these are the ones you have? stop waisting your time and go to your local NAPA and buy a couple good steel bits, it would still be best to use a cutting oil :thumbsup: I have 25 year old Bits , when they start to get a little dull I'll put them in my power bit sharpener that'll get back in shape, as far as I know the titanium bits cannot be re-sharpened,

I agree on the cheapo Ti coated bits...pretty junky. That said, I have resharpened them. It doesn't seem to make them any better or any worse. I have an old school sharpener that I got in a tool lot off ebay and is identical to this one. Sharpener Attachment - Drill Bit Sharpeners - Machining Supplies - Machining : Grainger Industrial Supply It works amazing well and will put a factory edge/point on even the hardest bits. In fact, I broke it out and used it to sharpen some of my best quality bits earlier this week.

Gary Sweat · Apr 2, 2011

Kernopelli said:
I agree on the cheapo Ti coated bits...pretty junky. That said, I have resharpened them. It doesn't seem to make them any better or any worse. I have an old school sharpener that I got in a tool lot off ebay and is identical to this one. Sharpener Attachment - Drill Bit Sharpeners - Machining Supplies - Machining : Grainger Industrial Supply It works amazing well and will put a factory edge/point on even the hardest bits. In fact, I broke it out and used it to sharpen some of my best quality bits earlier this week.

I've got a drill doctor that has paid for itself many times. Takes a bit of practice to use but it works. I tend to pick up pieces of scrap steel and I have come across some that took the edge off a drill bit in a few seconds. Don't have a clue as to what the make up of the steel was but it took a drill press, slow speed and a lot of pressure to cut a 3/8" hole through 1/2" flat piece. I had to use a glove to hold the bit so I could take it out of the drill press.:laughing:

mtm88001 · Apr 2, 2011

Took ya'lls advice and stop by NAPA to pick up a $23 drill bit.
Picked up a drill press and was able to make some holes very easy.
Thanks.

Getting close to having the sub frame completed.

Two front mounts

Rear/Mid mount

I bolted the two front mounts on and the rear/mid mount.
Just have to make a bracket to bolt the two together so if I need to remove won't be such a chore.

Darn if I didn't get 1 of the front mounts off about an 1", going to have to move it but I'm too tired today, maybe Monday...

Lesson's learned so far:
Drill slow and used good bits for thick metal.
Don't use HF welding rods... I ran out of the one's I picked up at TSC
Tack weld your pieces, although I still didn't follow that and now going to have to chew through a bracket on the front mount to move it over.
Check hair often for fires

mtm88001 · Apr 4, 2011

Got the 2 front mounts about finished.... I think

Just have to make couple of brackets to attach the rear/mid mount and 1 more bracket in the back. Hoping to have the loader bolted on soon.

Then have to make the front arms to mount to the very front of the tractor.