2002 J.D. 790 3-point sway control

[wideglide1301]

Hi, has anyone found a way to replace the sway chains to a telescopic
sway control ?

I understand Kubota has a way to convert theirs to a telescopic bar

Thanks Jeff

 

[RoyJackson]

I never did, but I thought the turnbuckles were quite easy to adjust (if fact, easier then the telescoping sway limiters on my 4400). It's easier if the implement is raised off the ground a bit, BTW.

 

[wideglide1301]

The problem is I have 3 seperate attachments, and with the turnbuckles turned clear in, they don't stop the sway

 

[RoyJackson]

The problem is I have 3 seperate attachments, and with the turnbuckles turned clear in, they don't stop the sway

You won't stop sway completely...and you want sway with some implements.
You just want to reduce sway as much as possible.

If you're seeing 2-3 inches of sway at the end of the implements (more with a long implement like a rotary cutter), you're fine.

When I adjusted my turnbuckles, I'd have the implement (Finishing Mower, most often) a foot or two raised, pull the implement toward me and tighten the turnbuckle...then go to the other side and repeat the process.
Then raise and lower the 3PH slowly to ensure no binding. I set my 3PH drop rate knob (black knob on the panel below the seat) so the 3PH lowers in about 2-3 seconds...I keep it like that too.
Then get behind the 790 to see if the implement is both centered (eyeball check) and level.

It's ain't rocket science and worked on both my old 670 and 790 for about 9 years. Still using the same basic procedure for the telescoping links on my 4400.

 

[wideglide1301]

1 adjuster is froze on the left side all the way in the right side is free but all the way in. I am a boom pole, a receiver hitch ( most of the time to move boats, and a platform (fork) I do not wish to have sway, as moving loads could become unstable. I could tolerate a little, but with the platform on,
it moves side to side enough to almost catch my rear tires.

the chains pull the arms to the outside against the hitch pins rather than pull in.

 

[grnspot110]

Mine were stuck when I got it, took them off, cleaned , lubed & turn them some every so often. I made a small wrench for mine; welded piece of split pipe section to a short handle, then drilled a hole in the pipe for the roll pin. ~~ grnspot110

 

[kennyd]

You can get a quick hitch like the iMatch and modify your implements to fit it, then you will never have to adjust them again:thumbsup:

 

[wideglide1301]

Thanks to all for the ideas.
kennyd, I like your idea and need to find out more about it.
also, I love your fork lift, as that is something I also need.
any more info on were to find one or have one built would be appreciated

 

[RoyJackson]

You can get a quick hitch like the iMatch and modify your implements to fit it, then you will never have to adjust them again:thumbsup:

Yeah, Kenny...but the QH will still have some sway (it being hooked to the draft and upper links), so it's not going to correct wideglide1301's problem...

 

[kennyd]

Thanks to all for the ideas.
kennyd, I like your idea and need to find out more about it.
also, I love your fork lift, as that is something I also need.
any more info on were to find one or have one built would be appreciated

Thanks you! For forks the best deal IMHO is Chris Perry's: Artillian Pallet Forks for John Deere Tractor Loaders because they are designed to be lightweight so your won't sacrifice lift capacity.

 

[kennyd]

Yeah, Kenny...but the QH will still have some sway (it being hooked to the draft and upper links), so it's not going to correct wideglide1301's problem...

I think it will, once he fix's the one turnbuckle that's stuck. His stuff is probably a little to wide maybe and that's why he cannot get the sway out because the arms are spread out. Just my opinion though...

 

[wideglide1301]

Again, thanks for all the input. the quick hitch won't solve the sway problem and my attachments are different widths. common sense says it is faster and cheaper to make the sway system do what it is intended to do.
I saw on this site, a modification on a Kubota using a sliding rail with pins to do the job. I was at a dealer today and saw that the new, slightly larger compacts are using this system instead of chains. so I would like to see if anyone has done this mod. ?

P.S. to replace the 790's (1) sway chain is $112.00 which will be a snowy day
in H-LL when kubota sells theirs for $19.95 each complete

 

[RoyJackson]

I saw somewere a modification on a Yanmar using a sliding rail with pins to do the job. I was at a dealer today and saw that the new, slightly larger compacts are using this system instead of chains. so I would like to see if anyone has done this mod?

My 4400 has this sliding rail with the pins (which I (probably) mistakenly called telescoping links in my earlier post).
As I'd written, the 790's turnbuckles are actually easier to adjust (getting the holes aligned and pins in those sliding rails can be a PITA). Even with those rails, you'll still see some lateral movement of the implement...probably close to what you see with the turnbuckles properly adjusted.
Personally, I'd try to free up that frozen turnbuckle and see how that works. Use penetrating oil and heat (off the tractor...you can put in in a vise and get better leverage)
BTW, those turnbuckles were used on a lot of Deere's older CUTs. You might try a tractor salvage company and see if you can get a better price then the dealer.

BTW, just out of curiousity...what implement are you using that cannot have any degree of sway?

 

[6string]

I have a '08 3005 (790) that I primarily use for mowing. It has adjustable spacers where the lower arms attach to the tractor. When I got my finishing mower, they were set to the narrowest spacing and I got almost zero sway. However, it was a battle to get the mower hooked up. I adjusted the lower arms to their widest spacing and it allows too much sway, I get a "yard ribbon" if I turn too quick. I wasn't aware of the adjustment feature until I read about it on one of the tractor forums. Here is a photo of the back of my tractor. (click to enlarge)

 

[wideglide1301]

If you read the earlier posts, I stated that I can use a slight amount.

and the attachments are listed earlier up the posts also. a receiver hitch attachment to move boats, as well as a platform/pallet lift does not want any sway to avoid damage to the product being moved such as a 5' storage shed. lastly, I have been in the marine service feild for 48 years doing light to heavy repair and all has been tried to free the adjuster including a gas oxy/acet. torch. this baby has galled threads and is stuck for good.

with that said, the mickey mouse chain setup as installed to the outside, pulls the lift bar out, not in, thus there is not enough adjustment tightened all the way in to take up the slack.

 

[wideglide1301]

6-string, yes I already noticed I have a wide and narrow spacer on each side
it would lead one to believe that this is poss. could provide for a "course" adjustment and the chains woud do the "fine " adjustment.
the dealer could not explain how to make this work. I would stay with the chain, but with 1 seized, I won't pay $112.00 for a new one. if I could find a good used one I may expiriment.

a note to all, this tractor will only ever use the attacment I have listed.

making the sway close is important. I will in a few days be moving a wood built generator shed 3'x6'x 5.5' high @ 400lbs. on the rear platform lift so no sway is mandatory

 

[Glen Watkins]

W G being in the marine business you of all people should know all about inflated prices on little specialty items! Just spend the money and get a new adjuster! :laughing:

 

[wideglide1301]

Glen, you undoubtedly are right, however I don't make the prices, just have to live with the flack the manufacture sets. but to the root of my problem, the adjusters, working or not, as installed by J.D. are still un-able to do there
job, they should pull to the inside, not the outside.

I apolgise if I offended anyone here, as forums usually make for a great melting pot of ideas! It's apparent that my needs differ from the norm, but I
guess that makes me the odd man out LOL. in the mean time, I wish to persue the telescopic bar & pin arrangement and would appreciate any mods or ideas
Thanks to All, wideglide1301

P.S. if you think marine parts are high, try Harley parts, I know, I service and ride them, thats why I am broke!!!!!!

 

[wideglide1301]

6-string I have been studying and I am not sure how you are moving the spacers to get a tighter fit.

great lookig tractor!!

 

[RoyJackson]

job, they should pull to the inside, not the outside.

I apolgise if I offended anyone here, as forums usually make for a great melting pot of ideas! It's apparent that my needs differ from the norm, but I
guess that makes me the odd man out LOL. in the mean time, I wish to persue the telescopic bar & pin arrangement and would appreciate any mods or ideas
Thanks to All, wideglide1301

P.S. if you think marine parts are high, try Harley parts, I know, I service and ride them, thats why I am broke!!!!!!

Doubt you offended anyone...pretty thick skinned on TBN (and you need a thick skin on any internet forum!!!)

The intent of the anti-sway links is to tension the links/implement so sway is reduced as much as possible.Whether the tension comes from the inside or outside the link is irrelevent...think about that.
Good luck with that sliding bar arrangement. I do suggest you examine closely and even get pictures of those larger Deeres CUTs. All I have rigged to my 3PH now is a ballast box, but I'll see if I can get a few pics with it lowered and raised (this afternoon). I have read (on TBN) that the geometry (how they're located) is important.
As far as Harley parts...well, I was told by a buddy of mine (works at the HD York PA plant) that a lot of the tooling has been sent to India and China. However, I doubt you see those reduced costs passed on to the consumer anytime soon...just the reduced quality.