OEM top link length.

[MtnViewRanch]

Will someone please post the lengths of the OEM 3pt top link from center line of pin to center line of pin collapsed and extended for any of the following tractors CT335, CT440, CT445 or CT450.

Just doing some research.

Thanks

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Any chance that any of you guys will get this length for me, or is it too wet and cold to get the measurements? :anyone:

 

[wallace]

CT445 22" closed 36" open:thumbsup:

 

[NOTV8]

Looks like you're putting a HTL... :licking: if that is the case, you can also get it from Rick Wallace and you don't have to worry about the size :thumbsup:. He'll hook you up on everything you need . Don't ask me how I know...:thumbsup:

 

[MtnViewRanch]

CT445 22" closed 36" open:thumbsup:

Thanks Rick.

 

[milkman636]

The top link that came with my ct335 is also 22" c-c at its shortest. At 36 inches its barely hanging on to the center tube. There is no way I would put any load on it at that length.

I actually use one of my older top links that can shorten to 20 inches for better lift on the backside. The ct335 is more vertically challenged than the other models.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The top link that came with my ct335 is also 22" c-c at its shortest. At 36 inches its barely hanging on to the center tube. There is no way I would put any load on it at that length.

I actually use one of my older top links that can shorten to 20 inches for better lift on the backside. The ct335 is more vertically challenged than the other models.

36" did sound a bit long, but I guess that it is maximum extension. I would not feel comfortable with it extended out that far either. Wanted to determine how much of a hydraulic that could go on a hydraulic top link after it is extended out the 6" to get past the top link bracket so that it can be used in all 3 of the bracket holes. Looks like an 8" stroke to get a hydraulic top link that is 21" collapsed and 29" extended or a 10" stroke to have 23" collasped and 33" extended. Would either of those work for most of you guys?

 

[wallace]

The top link that came with my ct335 is also 22" c-c at its shortest. At 36 inches its barely hanging on to the center tube. There is no way I would put any load on it at that length.

I actually use one of my older top links that can shorten to 20 inches for better lift on the backside. The ct335 is more vertically challenged than the other models.

36" at the end of the stroke of a hydraulic cylinder is nothing like putting it at the end of a threads.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

36" at the end of the stroke of a hydraulic cylinder is nothing like putting it at the end of a threads.

Rick, with the OEM top link bracket like it is on the CT335-CT450, what do you think or use for that matter the operating length of a hydraulic top link should be? Are you building them yourself, or purchasing after market units that actually work in all 3 positions? I know that the units with the check valves only work in the lowest hole.

 

[milkman636]

................... an 8" stroke to get a hydraulic top link that is 21" collapsed and 29" extended or a 10" stroke to have 23" collasped and 33" extended. Would either of those work for most of you guys?

I'd try the 8" stroke with 21"-29" c-c for my ct335. With the lower stance that the r4 tires provide, the lower hole and shorter length provides more rotation and lift for blade work. 21" c-c is right where I have my 7' blade set at for snow removal. The cutting edge is not aggresive at this length. The box blade worked well with the factory link only slightly adjusted out and hooked to the middle hole. The ground is still too hard right now to know exactly what will work best for the tillage implements, but I imagine 8" would provide enough adjustment.

I'll be interested in what you come up with. What model are you specifically researching?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I'd try the 8" stroke with 21"-29" c-c for my ct335. With the lower stance that the r4 tires provide, the lower hole and shorter length provides more rotation and lift for blade work. 21" c-c is right where I have my 7' blade set at for snow removal. The cutting edge is not aggresive at this length. The box blade worked well with the factory link only slightly adjusted out and hooked to the middle hole. The ground is still too hard right now to know exactly what will work best for the tillage implements, but I imagine 8" would provide enough adjustment.

I'll be interested in what you come up with. What model are you specifically researching?

I have started to make "TnT" kits. When I was last at the AG show, I forgot to get the top link sizes for these tractors, CT335-CT450. The CT335-CT450 should all take the same top link. They take a non std hydraulic top link due to the slanted top link bracket that is on the tractor.

 

[wallace]

I just measured my machine, I would want a 18" barrel and a 12-14" stroke.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I just measured my machine, I would want a 18" barrel and a 12-14" stroke.

Rick, what measurement do you think would be best pin-pin open and closed? That darn 3 pt bracket takes up 6", so that cuts 4" off of the available stroke that can be used.

 

[wallace]

how long are the eyes you are welding on?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

how long are the eyes you are welding on?

Std cat 1 end is 2" to the center. Also have ball sockets that get welded to 5/8"x1 1/2" material so that the cylinder end can be made out to any length.
(6 1/4" for the CT335-CT450)