work lights

[nealfris]

Hi all. I have a Kubota L3000DT. This tractor was built bare bones. I would like to put 2 front/ 2 back work lights on ROPS. I found a 10 amp fuse with thin yellow wire off back of fuse box, manual said it's work light circuit. My first question is, where's the wire go? Thought it was same yellow wire to back running lights. When I removed the fuse, all lights still work. I don't want to tear covering off the wires. I've search threads that have said wire goes under seat, I looked but couldn't find.
Could someone give me a schematic as to a proper layout, wire size, watt lights (I'm thinking 35x4) fuse size, relay size, etc. Should I have two switches or one.
Also where is everyone buying electrical parts online?

Thanks

Neal

 

[nealfris]

Looked more thoroughly under rear fenders because of another thread suggested spare Kubota wires in that location. Mine has no such spares, maybe because tractor is '2003' I found two relays under the hood. None have the yellow wire. I can not find the yellow wire coming out of the harness anywhere??? Why would they bury a wire in the harness? Do I just cut yellow wire and start wiring?

 

[moship]

1) I don't have the same tractor, but on mine there was an electrical connector for the "work lights" near the right hand side of the seat towards the rear. Kubota's wires always seem to be terminated with a connector versus bare wire to make it easier to install optional equipment. Other wire connections I needed, such as the mid pto were visible and outside the plastic wire loom. Perhaps call a dealer and ask. Some shops seem to be willing to help with simple questions.

2) How much current does your alternator put out? Hopefully it is in the 30 to 40 amp range. If it is the smaller 15 amp model you may want to rethink the use of conventional lights and go with LED to lower the current draw.

3) I used some cheap 55w halogen fog lights to illuminate the front and rear (4 lights total).

 

[Qapla]

1)... How much current does your alternator put out? Hopefully it is in the 30 to 40 amp range. If it is the smaller 15 amp model you may want to rethink the use of conventional lights and go with LED to lower the current draw...

Before you invest in LED lights, check the output of the alternator. If it is only 15 amps, look into replacing it with a higher output alternator.

The reason for this is - according to your info, you are in the Marshfield, MA / Arlington, VT area. If I am not mistaken, it snows there. LED lights do not give off any heat. When using the tractor to remove snow (or otherwise working in snow) the LED lights do NOT melt the snow from the lights, causing them to get dimmer and dimmer as you work.

Conventional lights, like halogen, give off heat and therefore keep themselves clean of ice and snow.

This was discussed by some who already tried the LED lights and decided to go back to a light that melts the ice.

 

[nealfris]

My alternator is 40 amp. I just got done finding that out. I also did some searching for lights. Tractor supply had some nice work lights for 20 bucks. My weakness is wiring circuit. How to go from fuse box, relay,switch, through to lights? The lights are 55w ea., 220w total. I'm thinking two switches.

 

[nealfris]

Thanks guys.
Quapla, snow not an issue, I plow with my truck. Tractor has the luxury of being in while its snowing, however I do use it in the rain so I will use waterproof switch.
Moship, sounds like you are using the same lights as I would like to use. Could you talk me through your install? Kubota has 10 amp fuse in box. Found nothing in the back, no free wires. yellow wire from fuse goes into harness and disappears.

Thanks

 

[robs660]

You can put 4 of them on one switch if you want to. I did the same thing on my B20. I ran from the battery with in an inline fuse to a small hobby box to make all the connections and a lighted switch on the rear inside fender. I do have to replace my alternator because I have a 15 amp and it kills the battery. I will take and add pics for you. The TSC lights are pretty good. I have dug trenches at night and plowed for hours without any problem. My dilemma is depending on the cost of the new alternator it might be cheaper to replace the lights and deal with a little snow build up

 

[moship]

Nealfris,

You might want to reconsider running through the stock wiring circuit consider the current draw will be approximately 18 amps and it sounds like it was only designed for 10 amps.

I will share what I did for both front and rear lights hanging from the sunshade.
A) Fused 12 gauge from starter to switches (Made splitter wire to supply both switches off the supply wire)
B) Used two switches (front and rear)
C) Did not use relays as the switches were rated for 20 or 30 amps each. Plus I was just lazy and did not feel like wiring relays into the circuit. Switches were from Radio Shack and had a rubber boot to provide some degree of splash protection. Switches are housed on a home made bracket with a splash shield around it.
D) Used 14 gauge wire to the lights.

Glad to hear you have the larger alternator.

Have fun with your light project. I do not bother with the factory lights as they are obstructed by either the FEL or snow blower.

Qapla,

Did not give any thought to the snow build up issue. My lights are protected under the sunshade. LED are a good alternative and countermeasures to the snow build up can be applied if desired. In any case, good point!

 

[/pine]

Have you been to Messick's site and downloaded the electrical system PDF for your L3000DT ?...it may not show a blow up of the harness but it may give you an insight...

 

[nealfris]

/Pine, thanks. I did check out Messick's site. Drilled down to my model and they wanted to email part of the manual. I have not received any email. Am I missing something? It would be great to simply download a schematic.

 

[/pine]

What you get are PDF files that are taken from the original parts manuals...they show ALL the parts connections etc with numbers...they are very nice references to have on hand...

Not sure why you have not gotten the file...you might check your spam filter or junk folder etc...

 

[moship]

neilfris,

I was able to download it without issue. Send me a private message with email and I'll send the file out.

It does not show a specific work light wire, but all the wires for the rear lights, flashing lights, etc... are under the fenders. The right hand side (as seated on tractor) seems more promising.

 

[moship]

nealfris,

Here is the switch I used. Prefered something more waterproof, but gave up driving around looking for something. This switch came from RadioShack and was ~$4.

It is also rated at 40amps.

SPST 12VDC 40A On-Off Toggle Switch - RadioShack.com

Below you will find the wiring from Messick's and a picture of my switches and lights.

 

[Jay4200]

My alternator is 40 amp. I just got done finding that out. I also did some searching for lights. Tractor supply had some nice work lights for 20 bucks. My weakness is wiring circuit. How to go from fuse box, relay,switch, through to lights? The lights are 55w ea., 220w total. I'm thinking two switches.

You'll have to add another circuit for 4 lights - you can only run 2 on a 10A circuit. One side of the fuse block is switched battery voltage (12 rail). The other side is the protected circuit - that's where the yellow wire comes out. You want to run that wire to a switch, then to the light. The switched wire is hot, ground is chassis.

For the other two lights, get another 10A fuse and make another circuit in a blank slot that is wired the same way. I would guess that the hot side of the fuse block is hardwired, so you should just have to run the wire on the protected side after you stuff in a fuse.

JayC

 

[Scrambler82]

I would like to put 2 front/ 2 back work lights on ROPS. I found a 10 amp fuse with thin yellow wire off back of fuse box, manual said it's work light circuit. My first question is, where's the wire go? Thought it was same yellow wire to back running lights. When I removed the fuse, all lights still work. I don't want to tear covering off the wires. I've search threads that have said wire goes under seat, I looked but couldn't find.
Could someone give me a schematic as to a proper layout, wire size, watt lights (I'm thinking 35x4) fuse size, relay size, etc. Should I have two switches or one.
Also where is everyone buying electrical parts online?

Thanks

Neal

sorry I do not have a schematics but this is how I would do it:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/188724-aux-lighting-hookup.html

Run all power fused from the battery and run grounds back to the battery.
Always set up lighting in sets of two, one relay and one sw for each set.
4 Light x 55 watts each = 220 watts / 12 volts = 18 amps or 9 amps per set of two.
Two switches, as suggested in last post, is a good thing but one switch to activate all four lights will work as long as you run two relays. The wire from the switch can go to pin 85 or 86 on both relays.
Always remember to fuse the main power wire from the battery and the power to the switch(es).
In your setup 20 amp fuses and 12 gauge wire is a minimum from battery to pin 30 on the relay and from 87 to the first light and jumper to the second.
Standard automotive type relays will work; waterproof components might work out also if you work in foul weather all the time.
Switch or switches require 18 wire (you might use 20 ga) and a 2 amp fuse for the power side and from the switch to pin 85 or 86 on the relay.
Use the same gauge wire as the power feed on the ground side of everything.

USe good quality automotive wire not the hardware store wire unless it is specified for automotive use and is very flexible.

The indicator light is not really necessary in your application but if you like lights like I do then it works.

Sorry got carried away.

 

[boggen]

on the 555c new holland loader/backhoe. it had wiring for front and rear work lights and relays, but were missing a couple switchs in the consul. and one of the relays were bad.

so went to tractor supply / farm king / double checked a couple other stores.

found a kit, that had 2 lights, small fuse box holder to hold a 15amp fuse, and a water proof switch and i think 15 to 20 feet of wire. for like 25 to 30 bucks.

i just ran 2 wires form battery into the cab, put the fuse in (that came with the 2 light kit) and then the switch. and then ran wires up and out to the 2 new lights. and some plastic zip ties used to hold wires up and out of the way in a few spots. i let the switch kinda dangle inside the cab for the lights. not the best. but i was afraid to drill the counsel with fear of hitting other wires.

for me it was easier to do it this way. vs trying to wiggle out 2 wires out of a fuse box / relay that were already there for work lights. just not enough room let alone length of wire to cut and splice into.

 

[freddyr]

You can put 4 of them on one switch if you want to. I did the same thing on my B20. I ran from the battery with in an inline fuse to a small hobby box to make all the connections and a lighted switch on the rear inside fender. I do have to replace my alternator because I have a 15 amp and it kills the battery. I will take and add pics for you. The TSC lights are pretty good. I have dug trenches at night and plowed for hours without any problem. My dilemma is depending on the cost of the new alternator it might be cheaper to replace the lights and deal with a little snow build up

I didnt think the lights from TSC were bright enough. I got some Peterson lights on ebay, Northerntool has some to. look for good bulbs

 

[Scrambler82]

If two 55 Watt lights draw 9 amps then a 10 amp circuit will not be enough.
The 10 amp circuit is for two 35 watt light that draw approximately 6 amps.
The 10 amp outlet circuit IMHO is for a 12 v drop light with a max of a 100 w bulb or an iPod charger…

Added 3/2/11: Add a separate circuit, easy/fast and by far safer.
Only problem is how much extra output does the alternator have or how long will it last, putting out at the top of its output level, before it collapses.