Purge or bleed needed after broken fitting?

[CloudyBright]

My B7500 HST with FEL and backhoe is dead in the brush right now.
And this is my first experience with hydraulics.
A metal hydraulic line fitting (located just off the Husco control valve) cracked and broke. I shut the engine off moments after the Hydraulic fluid began spraying all over around the control valve.

The metal (it looks like an adapter) fitting broke off completely as I inspected it and a small amount fluid continued to dribble out.

A company named Western Fluid had a suitable matching fitting in stock.
So I put the fitting on and now wonder if I need to drain or bleed any fluid or just hookup the hoses and turn it on?

Any help is appreciated.
(Sooner would be nice since it stopped raining for a short while here. )

 

[jbrody44]

when I replaced a cylinder on my bh75 the dealer told me that it would bleed itself off after extending and retracting a couple of times. It did work out just fine. Be sure to relieve all hydro pressure before working on the unit, but it probably already is if you had a blow out. Also be sure to top off the fluid after.

 

[CloudyBright]

Okay,
Off I go to find some teflon tape and get it fixed.
Thank You!

 

[leonz]

Okay,
Off I go to find some teflon tape and get it fixed.
Thank You!

NO TEFLON TAPE!! use liquid thread sealer.

 

[radman1]

No need to purge any air. Just cycle the hydraulics a few times.

It has been debated in the past, but I use teflon tape all the time. I don't put any on the first few threads to keep any from getting into the hydraulic system. If remove a fitting with tape, be sure to remove any remaining tape from the fittings. The only time hydraulic paste works well for me, is if I let the fitting set for multiple hours before using the hydraulics. Hence, the reason I use teflon tape. Can use it immediately.

 

[bitseeker]

No need to purge any air. Just cycle the hydraulics a few times.

It has been debated in the past, but I use teflon tape all the time. I don't put any on the first few threads to keep any from getting into the hydraulic system. If remove a fitting with tape, be sure to remove any remaining tape from the fittings. The only time hydraulic paste works well for me, is if I let the fitting set for multiple hours before using the hydraulics. Hence, the reason I use teflon tape. Can use it immediately.

I use teflon tape the same way you do, and have had no problems. My dealer uses it as well, and says that used the way you suggest, Teflon tape is problem-free.

I know that the air is purged with just cycling, yet I do not understand how. It seems as though the air would get trapped at high-points and in cylinders. Will someone please explain how the air works out of the hydraulic system?

- Does the air go past the seals in cylinders, where the oil does not?

- Does the air compress so much at approximately 3,000 PSI that it gets merged with the oil, ends up in the reservoir, and comes out at atmospheric pressure in the reservoir?

 

[dennisgw]

Tractor came from the dealer with Teflon tape on the fittings. They leaked. I put on Teflon paste. They don't leak. I guess I either method works.

 

[ENTS]

I've busted multiple hydro. fittings on multiple implements. I just corrected the problem, topped off the fluids, and away I went. Never had a problem. How the air get's purged is a mystery to me but as long as it auto purges, I don't care.

Later,

 

[leonz]

I use teflon tape the same way you do, and have had no problems. My dealer uses it as well, and says that used the way you suggest, Teflon tape is problem-free.

I know that the air is purged with just cycling, yet I do not understand how. It seems as though the air would get trapped at high-points and in cylinders. Will someone please explain how the air works out of the hydraulic system?

- Does the air go past the seals in cylinders, where the oil does not?

- Does the air compress so much at approximately 3,000 PSI that it gets merged with the oil, ends up in the reservoir, and comes out at atmospheric pressure in the reservoir?

The air and oil gets bounced back and forth during operation and the oil eventually leaves the cyclinder and that side of the spool valve and travels back to tank and dissolves to be vented out.

 

[CloudyBright]

Thanks all - she's workin' good now!

The original fitting had what looked to be teflon tape.
So I used the same. . .it works - no leaks.

Tractor was tilted when I filled up the hydraulic fluid.
It resulted in an over-filled hydraulic reservoir when I got the tractor back level.

There looks to be an over-flow tube coming out from the top of the hydraulic reservoir - a tractor friend says that if it's overfilled, it will come out that over-flow.
My guess is that's what eventually happens to any air in the lines too.

 

[lock101]

Lico help is here

My B7500 HST with FEL and backhoe is dead in the brush right now.
And this is my first experience with hydraulics.
A metal hydraulic line fitting (located just off the Husco control valve) cracked and broke. I shut the engine off moments after the Hydraulic fluid began spraying all over around the control valve.

The metal (it looks like an adapter) fitting broke off completely as I inspected it and a small amount fluid continued to dribble out.

A company named Western Fluid had a suitable matching fitting in stock.
So I put the fitting on and now wonder if I need to drain or bleed any fluid or just hookup the hoses and turn it on?

Any help is appreciated.
(Sooner would be nice since it stopped raining for a short while here. )