Oil & Fuel BX oil change

/ BX oil change #1  

Jnasystems

Silver Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2010
Messages
125
Location
Waukesha Co, WI
Tractor
1986 Ford/NH 1520, 1950 Allis Chalmers WD, 2001 NH EC35 (track hoe)
I want to do an oil change on my bx. It has a brush-guard on the front and I can't see how to remove the plastic surrounding the engine without removing the brush-guard. Is removing plastic necessary for an oil change? Does the brush-guard also need to be removed? Any tricks would be appreciated.
 
/ BX oil change #2  
I want to do an oil change on my bx. It has a brush-guard on the front and I can't see how to remove the plastic surrounding the engine without removing the brush-guard. Is removing plastic necessary for an oil change? Does the brush-guard also need to be removed? Any tricks would be appreciated.

I mastered changing the oil filter without even removing the side panels of the engine compartment. If you use the right filter removal tool, it was easy.

If you have to remove the brush guard, in order to slide the side curtain panels forward, then that is what you gotta do. I't not that bad.

Once you have those stock bolts off, replace then with more standard, hex heads for future ease.
 
/ BX oil change #3  
I want to do an oil change on my bx. It has a brush-guard on the front and I can't see how to remove the plastic surrounding the engine without removing the brush-guard. Is removing plastic necessary for an oil change? Does the brush-guard also need to be removed? Any tricks would be appreciated.

If you can get the oil filter off then you do not need to remove the engine side panels. On mine with FEL frame this is a challenge but doable.

If you have to remove the engine side panels you will have to remove the brush guard also. There is a plastic strap by the release hood latch that hold the hood open a few inches. It helps allow the side panels slide out from under the hood. Be careful the plastic mounting ears break off rather easily.

As one member stated " It takes a couple circus monkeys to reinstall this"

Roy
 
/ BX oil change
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks for the info - I just didn't want to remove it if not needed because I didn't want to have to go back to the house for tools. The strap wrench was out there already and I hadn't even looked for the oil drain yet (I know that meant a trip for tools, but I was frustrated that the panels didn't come off as easily as I thought they should). There is a loader on it and I didn't see an easy way to remove the filter at first glance, but I will look a little harder. What kind of removal tool do you use?

I did loosen the side panels to the point it would slide out if the brush-guard weren't there. Not sure what the fasteners are, but I just had my multi-tool with me at the time, so they must not have been anything too strange.
 
/ BX oil change #6  
Those "jaws" type filter pliers or strap type works well.
Those front bolts are often an Allen type. Once those get cruddy and rusted, well..... I just wanted a standard bolt up there.
 
/ BX oil change #7  
Take the guard off. its mucher easier to change the filter. I just did the 50 hour change on my BX 2360.
the guard came off making every thing accessable. you can wipe the filter mount off, and check it for leaks after you have installed the new filter, and completed the oil change. The oil pan plug is a 4 mm. good luck and have fun
 
/ BX oil change #8  
On my BX I've always used a large pair of channel lock pliers,works great with cover on and loader on.I love tools that work for more than one thing.
 
/ BX oil change #9  
Take the guard off. its mucher easier to change the filter. I just did the 50 hour change on my BX 2360.
the guard came off making every thing accessable. you can wipe the filter mount off, and check it for leaks after you have installed the new filter, and completed the oil change. The oil pan plug is a 4 mm. good luck and have fun

Did you mean 14 mm?
 
/ BX oil change #10  
I'd say take guard off like everyone says. I take mine off everytime. It allows me to look over the engine and get to know it better. it always marvels me on how tiny it is but it packs such a wallop! :thumbsup:
I reused the same bolts, but put them in the otherway so nut is facing out to ease of removal with impact wrench.
 
/ BX oil change #11  
I'd say take guard off like everyone says. I take mine off everytime. It allows me to look over the engine and get to know it better. it always marvels me on how tiny it is but it packs such a wallop! :thumbsup:
I reused the same bolts, but put them in the otherway so nut is facing out to ease of removal with impact wrench.


Same here socket head in the frame and the hex key will wedge on frame taking the nut off and on from the outside.

some times you can sneak it out by just loosening the bolts and letting guard loose.
 
/ BX oil change #12  
Man, getting that brush guard off was a big problem...:mad::confused2:...We did not have any hex head sockets, so we used the end of a nail set & vice grips...
 
/ BX oil change #13  
/ BX oil change #14  
I removed brush guard and then side panels and then removed filter with a strap type wrench. It could have been done fairly easy by leaving the side panels on if I had just tried it. I listened to the takeit off advisors before just trying it. I'll not take it off the next time.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/167108-do-your-own-fluids-filters.html

OK John Thomas, here are my pics...:p...We even have the same oil drain...That reminds me, the 100hr is do...:rolleyes:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/188920-bx25-50-hour-service.html
 
/ BX oil change #15  
I've had mine for almost 7 years and have never removed the covers for any maintenance. The filter is very removable with the right tools. I'll probably have to pop the front end in the next year to do a bigger mantenance, but I don't see the need for general oil changes.
 
/ BX oil change #16  
I've had mine for almost 7 years and have never removed the covers for any maintenance. The filter is very removable with the right tools. I'll probably have to pop the front end in the next year to do a bigger mantenance, but I don't see the need for general oil changes.

I agree with you- but the first 50 hour change it should come off esp. the 50 series since its all plastic. once you figure out what tools you have that works with cover on, then you can leave it on next time if you want. As for me, I like the open space to visually go over the engine.
 
/ BX oil change #19  
Mine comes off every time so I can inspect belts, wiring, hoses, linkage etc. The cover comes off in about one minute, after the loader is off.
 
/ BX oil change #20  
On my BX 2660 the brushguard did not use allen bolts , but it still used hex bolts , that when removed caused tricky holding of guard before it drops to floor or to hold it in place to reinstall while holding head behind frame.
So I bought some longer bolts ran them thru the frame holes so heads where backwards, then before putting on brush guard put a locking washer and nut on to hold the bolts in place permanently, so now I have four bolts sticking out that I can easily hang the brushguard on so that it doesn't require holding, while I put the nuts in place that actually hold brushguard in place. (I went with nylon lock nuts cause they look pretty too)
yes this causes brushguard to be moved forward the thickness of those of locking nuts to make bolts permanent , but no clearance issues occurred. And now it is one hand work with ratchet to get nuts off, no need to hold other end of bolt from turning. Added bonus is side panels slide on and off easier too.

I think they ended up being three inch bolts I bought (and reversed) instead of the stock 2 inch ones
 

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