Broke lift rod

[chickenhead]

I have a Kubota L3300 and I was backing up to attach my box blade and the 3 pt was lowered to low and caught the tire an snapped my lift rods. Does anyone think I could weld this back?? It broke where the threaded shaft is welded to the fork. I can not get the threaded shaft out to replaced because there is a push spring in there and I don't know how to release it. Any help is appreciated.

 

[JakeBrake]

I have a Kubota L3300 and I was backing up to attach my box blade and the 3 pt was lowered to low and caught the tire an snapped my lift rods. Does anyone think I could weld this back?? It broke where the threaded shaft is welded to the fork. I can not get the threaded shaft out to replaced because there is a push spring in there and I don't know how to release it. Any help is appreciated.

I recently managed to bend the toplink on my Kubota L3830. I was happy to discover that my second generation Kubota dealer kept a large stock of junk/used parts. He was able to repair my toplink for a very reasonable cost.

to disassemble the toplink you remove the grease fitting. This give access to a drift pin through the shaft. You have to line up the grease fitting hole with the drift pin and fish out the drift pin which is a free fit except for the fact it is held in by grease. I suspect your lift rod may work the same way.

 

[Soundguy]

one on my yanmar broke like that. I welded it... should be no problem.

soundguy

 

[LD1]

I have a Kubota L3300 and I was backing up to attach my box blade and the 3 pt was lowered to low and caught the tire an snapped my lift rods. Does anyone think I could weld this back?? It broke where the threaded shaft is welded to the fork. I can not get the threaded shaft out to replaced because there is a push spring in there and I don't know how to release it. Any help is appreciated.

Can it be welded?? Sure.

But without knowing your welding skills or equipment, I would advise against it. And it even looks like the threaded rod is bent, so even if welded, it wouldn't work right.

I can't imagine that part being more than ~$100 from kubota. It actually looks the same as the one on my L3400. And you posibally might even be able to get just the part that is bent for even less $$$. Either way, I wouldn't make any decisions without at least pricing the part.

It would be a shame to be going ~13-14mph down the road with a plow or something on the back, and it break. Digging into the pavement and stopping very quickly wouldn't make for a very good day.

 

[chickenhead]

The replacement part is only around $50 if I can manage to get that pin out to replace it. Thanks for the tips!

 

[Soundguy]

buy a shorty cat 1 top link and weld on the fork and ball from the old unit, after cutting the stock ones off... wala no bend...

soundguy

 

[chickenhead]

The bolt is bent but it still screws in and out, I think I may try to weld it. It dont look like it would be hard to put a better weld on it than the factory did.

 

[Soundguy]

what have you got to loose. it's either ruined beyond use thus replaceable.. or it's fixable.. if it truly is ruined.. you loose nothing but a lil time and a couple welding rods and some electricity in trying... that's a no loose situation...

soundguy

 

[Sackett2]

I saw a replacement unit at a local farm store; If you were in Oregon i'd let you have my old one (I Hydrolicized my tractor)

 

[chickenhead]

I never adjust the lift rod anyhow. I've never had to for any of my implements.

 

[LD1]

I never adjust the lift rod anyhow. I've never had to for any of my implements.

The lift rod is handy for 2 main reasons.

1. when hooking up an implement. Hook the other side first. And then hook the adjustable side. If the ground is a little uneven, it is a huge help.

2. When using a backblade and trying to create a bit of a grade or ditch. You can adjust that link to get one side to dig more than the other.

 

[chickenhead]

Great tips, I'm a bit of a newb. That is what makes it a little bit easier hooking up implements. I've just never fooled with it , always just wrestled whatever I was hooking up. Dumb on my part.

 

[tthopskin@yahoo.ca]

what have you got to loose. it's either ruined beyond use thus replaceable.. or it's fixable.. if it truly is ruined.. you loose nothing but a lil time and a couple welding rods and some electricity in trying... that's a no loose situation...

soundguy

:thumbsup::thumbsup: well said

 

[tthopskin@yahoo.ca]

Great tips, I'm a bit of a newb. That is what makes it a little bit easier hooking up implements. I've just never fooled with it , always just wrestled whatever I was hooking up. Dumb on my part.

who has the time to play just pull it in hook it up :thumbsup:

 

[tthopskin@yahoo.ca]

if you know how to weld --weld it if you take it to a welding shop go buy a new one the cost would be close to haft the price of new :thumbsup: but use 7018 if you weld it works good on hared metal and some cast I know your not much of a welder or you just wanted to see what every one had to say me it would have been welded and back on before i had time to wright all this down :thumbsup: yes i wright with one finger weld with two hands :thumbsup:

 

[chickenhead]

I'm not much of a welder I have a brand new 220 Hobart stick welder sitting in my shop I've used like 2 times. I need some scrap stuff to start making stuff.

 

[Soundguy]

220a stick welder will make short work of that repair. just grind on it a bit, protect the threads and lok er in a vice and start burning rods...

soundguy

 

[TDVT]

Mine (L3400) broke in a different spot.

I welded it, but it broke again, so I cut if off where yours is broken & then welded an entire bolt (head against the pad on the fork) which has held for some time now.

I was lucky in that the bottom (broken part) threaded section was right hand thread, as it made the bolt easier to find. Not sure if your fork is offset the way mine is but you might check. Thought I'm mention it just in case.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I'm not much of a welder I have a brand new 220 Hobart stick welder sitting in my shop I've used like 2 times. I need some scrap stuff to start making stuff.

It should be straightened and can be welded successfully. You use nuts to protect the threads while straightening. Your welding knowledge and skilll is another matter. If you are a prodigy go for it. If not buy.
larry

 

[Soundguy]

It should be straightened and can be welded successfully. You use nuts to protect the threads while straightening. Your welding knowledge and skilll is another matter. If you are a prodigy go for it. If not buy.
larry

or if you want to learn.. go for it, knowing you may be buying later.. or buy and repair and keep the new one on the shelf or in the tool box for when / if needed.

i've fixed many an adjustable lift arm. many times I just transplanted a new section of thread onto a forked base. so far it's always been the 'correct' thread driection that broke, not like on some turn buckles... etc..

soundguy