New (to me) ym3110d

[Jzondor]

Just got in from using my BB with rippers down. I have a section of land that is a bit rough and I'm trying to smooth it out. And the 3110d worked awesomely. I even pulled up a tree root with no problem, nit intentionally. Didn't realize how good of a tractor I just purchased.
It apparently has power steering, which I've read from a couple places is rare. I have figured out what all of the knobs and switches do except for one. Its on the back of the 3pt housing. I'll take a picture of it tomorrow when its light.

Really happy with this tractor thus far.

 

[Andy in Gap]

What size box blade are you running on that beast? I've never seen any of the bigger Yanmars, but I can only imagine the amount of work they would be capable of doing. You're gonna love your new tractor. :thumbsup:

 

[Jzondor]

6' box blade.

 

[Jzondor]

Here's a photo of that lever, does anyone know what it does?

 

[California]

Is that part of the hydraulic module that sits on top of the transmission? Maybe it switches the position control (constant implement height) to draft control? (3-point raises when a plow meets extreme resistance). I think Draft Control was part of the original Ferguson 3-point design rather than the position control we have on the small Yanmars.

If that's not it, then ?????

 

[Car Doc]

Here's a photo of that lever, does anyone know what it does?

It shuts off the 3pt hyd flow why I don't know they had some reason I am sure but if you were to lift it up and flip that lever it would stay put regardless where the draft lever was put.

I have a YM3810D the turbo charged sister to that tractor and I can say it is a hoss you wont be ever out of power it will just spin the tires if you load it too much and the powershift is the best feature of all besides p/s, congrats nice buy there!

Btw your tractor does not have the optional auto draft which doesn't mean anything anyway you wouldn't ever need or use it anyway just thought Id throw that out I can tell by the pic fwtw.

 

[Jzondor]

It shuts off the 3pt hyd flow why I don't know they had some reason I am sure but if you were to lift it up and flip that lever it would stay put regardless where the draft lever was put.

I have a YM3810D the turbo charged sister to that tractor and I can say it is a hoss you wont be ever out of power it will just spin the tires if you load it too much and the powershift is the best feature of all besides p/s, congrats nice buy there!

Btw your tractor does not have the optional auto draft which doesn't mean anything anyway you wouldn't ever need or use it anyway just thought Id throw that out I can tell by the pic fwtw.

I thought that the knob under the seat shut off the hydro to the 3pt. At least that's what the manual states and I do have a knob (rotating) under my seat.

Yeah, I spun the tires a couple of times while using my box blade today. And on previous tractors that I've operated, they had hydrostatic drive so the powershift is not a new feature to me... But I can see how I would miss it.

And as for draft control, didn't think it had it. I've seen draft controls on other tractors and there's an extra bracket assembly that my tractor doesn't have.

Thanks for the input.

 

[Jzondor]

On a side note, after using the tractor a bit today, I noticed grease leaking from the left front wheel hub.

So I took the hub off and it looks like some dirt and grime got into the outer seal somehow. I didn't go as far as to disassembling the whole hub (drive gear). So I'm hoping that cleaning the seal will be enough. But I did notice a little play in the hub before and after I worked on it (< 1/8"). The inner bearing looked good and was solid. Is this a common occurrence on Yanmar 4wd? It only has 1683 hours on it.

 

[normde2001]

On a side note, after using the tractor a bit today, I noticed grease leaking from the left front wheel hub.

So I took the hub off and it looks like some dirt and grime got into the outer seal somehow. I didn't go as far as to disassembling the whole hub (drive gear). So I'm hoping that cleaning the seal will be enough. But I did notice a little play in the hub before and after I worked on it (< 1/8"). The inner bearing looked good and was solid. Is this a common occurrence on Yanmar 4wd? It only has 1683 hours on it.

That's to be expected with 30 years use, mostly standing in axle-deep rice paddy water

 

[kenmac]

3110D is a good tractor. That lever locks the 3 point in place. The power steering is nice as well:thumbsup:

 

[Car Doc]

I thought that the knob under the seat shut off the hydro to the 3pt. At least that's what the manual states and I do have a knob (rotating) under my seat.



Thanks for the input.

You are welcome and the knob under the seat is supposed to shut of the 3pt but mine doesn't work that way and haven't found out why or even a reason to use it either.

I cant comment why there are 2 devices that affect the 3pt but that lever you questioned on mine definitely stops my 3pt in place and the knob turned all the way in does nothing on mine anyway.

I suspect there was an auxiliary hydraulic attachment that could be installed that used the draft lever as its control but I could be off in right field on that theory my draft lever control block has a hose going out and back in so I believe that is where an auxiliary hydraulic could be run off of.

 

[Jzondor]

Well, bad news is that it's still leaking... Any suggestions on the best way to separate the final gear from the hub? There's a retaining nut that you have to remove but I'm guessing it's pressed together and I didn't see a good way to get a wheel puller in place.

 

[clemsonfor]

i thought that thing just bolted there with 4-5 bolts? I only have a 2wd so i dont know?

 

[winston1]

Well, bad news is that it's still leaking... Any suggestions on the best way to separate the final gear from the hub? There's a retaining nut that you have to remove but I'm guessing it's pressed together and I didn't see a good way to get a wheel puller in place.

Some have had good success with Lucas Power steering stop leak. I am not familiar with the 3110 but here is a drawing of a 276d. May be very similiar to yours. If so, your gear will be on a spline and should not be hard to come off. You will have to use a good hardwood block or heavy rubber mallet to drive out the stub axle. Again, I do not know if the 3110 is like this.:thumbsup: http://www.hoyetractor.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_CODE=2764WDINT

 

[kenmac]

Post a pic of what you are trying to take apart.I put seals in 1 side of my 3110.. The link is for a 276 not a 336.

 

[Jzondor]

Helps to keep reading in the service manual sometimes... I just found out that I do have to remove the retaining plate first... Don't have any pics yet of the actual hub, but here are some out of the manual.

And it looks like there are two seals (inner / outer) and then an o-ring that could be the issue. Haven't had a chance to take it all the way apart yet so I don't know which one might be busted. Got a quote on them and they are pretty cheap so I'll go ahead and replace all three. I'll post pictures of work in progress.

 

[kenmac]

It's been a while. Best I can remember there are shims between the 2 casing halves. Watch how they come out

 

[Jzondor]

It's been a while. Best I can remember there are shims between the 2 casing halves. Watch how they come out

Gotcha, thanks!

 

[Jzondor]

Finally got some time to work on the tractor today. The new seals came in a couple of days ago.

I did find out that you don't have to take the plate off to seperate the spindle from the final gear drive. Once you remove the retaining nut from the spendle, you can either pull the inside bearing or press the spindle out. I chose to tap the spindle out. Then you can either press the final gear out or do what I did. I removed the four bolts holding in the plate and the removed the gear and outer bearing together. One thing that's starting to annoy me about this tractor, is that some bolts are 13mm and some are 12mm. Like in the plate, 3 of them were 13mm and one was 12mm.

Here are some pictures I took through the process:

After I removed the final gear spindle assembly:

Shot of the assembly and the odd 12mm bolt:

Retaining nut and washer:

After removal of the retaining nut and washer:

Tapping the spindle out:

Picture of the seals, they were in pretty bad shape. Both the inner and outer seals were distorted. The final gear drive is still in and you can see the splines and bearing:

Another shot of the seals after I removed the gear:

New seals vs Old ones:

I have yet to find the inner o-ring. Not sure if the 3110D actually has one but I bought one just incase.

Now all I have to do is finish cleaning it all up and reassemble it.

 

[winston1]

The o-ring is suppose to go under the seal collar. I do not see a seal collar in your pictures. Do you have one? Looks like you about got it whipped!