Any tips on installing rear remote kit?

[LittleBlueTractor]

I ordered and received my factory rear remote kit last week. (Actually, I asked for a duel rear remote kit, but got a single -- as it was only $200 delivered I suppose I can't complain much. I understand that I may come to regret that decision someday.)

I checked and it appears everything is there. The instructions aren't the best (lots of poor quality xeroxed photos), but I think I can figure it all out. One of first things in the instructions it to remove the right-rear wheel. I'm hoping that's just a convenience thing I can skip. Seems like I've read about others skipping that step in other TBN posts.

Anyway, I have never worked with hydraulics before and was wondering if there are any common mistakes newbies make that I can avoid? Stuff like over-tightening hoses/connections. They don't provide any details like torque specs, etc....

Any advice would be appreciated -- really, anything at all.

 

[aczlan]

Mentioning your tractor make and model would probably net you useful responses (rather than guesses).

Aaron Z

 

[LittleBlueTractor]

Mentioning your tractor make and model would probably net you useful responses (rather than guesses).

Aaron Z

It's a LS S3010 - not a real popular make/brand/model yet, but I'm liking it just fine so far.

 

[955er]

Type in "power beyond kit". There are many threads on this subject, some with detailed photos and directions.

 

[rswyan]

Anyway, I have never worked with hydraulics before and was wondering if there are any common mistakes newbies make that I can avoid? Stuff like over-tightening hoses/connections. They don't provide any details like torque specs, etc....

Connections can certainly be overtightened - I'd be particularly concerned with connections that use a thread seal (like pipe thread) ..... don't have any advice personally .... beyond suggesting that you Google it.

 

[/pine]

if you are installing a (pb) rear remote kit and you are not installing a control valve...i.e., for use with something like a log splitter that has its own valve...
...I think you will need to use a hose to divert the pressure side back to the tank when there is no valve in the loop...

 

[LittleBlueTractor]

if you are installing a (pb) rear remote kit and you are not installing a control valve...i.e., for use with something like a log splitter that has its own valve...
...I think you will need to use a hose to divert the pressure side back to the tank when there is no valve in the loop...

I've been looking at lots of pictures on TBN and believe the kit is for a single scv remote. Unfortunately, the kit and instructions are with the tractor over an hour away (we only get to see each other on some weekends.) There is a single small lever to be mounted under the seat, lots of black rigid metal pipes of various lengths, a block, threaded bolt looking things with holes, lots of compressible washers, mounting hardware, etc..., but no rubber hoses of any kind that I can remember. From the crappy pictures it looks like the majority of the installation happens just under the seat. (That's why I'm thinking that removing the right rear wheel is just a convenience thing I can ignore.) My plan is to eventually use it with a CCM hydraulic top link.

 

[LittleBlueTractor]

Reviving the thread just to note what advice I would offer to a noob wanting to self-install a SCV and rear hydraulic remotes.

The instructions said to remove the right rear tire. I decided to work around it and that made the whole project much more difficult.

The instructions that come with the kit are written for the tractor service guys, not someone new to hydraulics.

It's not like a crossword puzzle in that not all of the pieces fit together easily.

I consider it a 2-man job because the valve assembly is heavy and difficult to mount in the best of circumstances. Also, having another set of hands to hold the various parts being attached would be more than just nice.

Hydraulic oil is slick stuff and makes everything you are working with hard to hang on to. It tastes nasty too.

It's real tight up in there in some places and getting a wrench to move more than a few degrees is impossible.

There's more, but I'm tired of even thinking about it now. It took a solid 8 hours for me to do the job alone, but I got it done. My final advice to anyone inexperienced in hydraulics is to get your remotes done by the dealer when you buy your tractor.

 

[mjncad]

I'm inexperienced in hydraulics and I installed three rear remotes and a power beyond kit myself with minimal cussing. Deere's instructions were well written, and I obtained the instructions before buying the kits to determine whether I was up to the challenge.

As you've noted, hydraulic fluid is slick as snot; but I don't know about the taste. I removed the right rear wheel and both fenders, the seat and other trim panels and it was necessary for me to do that in order to install the kits.

The biggest thing that helped me was having a crapload of Crow's Foot and flare nut wrenches to do the job, along with taking my time, checking off each step on the instructions as I went, and keeping the surgical field clean to keep dirt out of the system.

Picasa Web Albums - Matt - Hydraulics Up...#

 

[LittleBlueTractor]

I'm inexperienced in hydraulics and I installed three rear remotes and a power beyond kit myself with minimal cussing. Deere's instructions were well written, and I obtained the instructions before buying the kits to determine whether I was up to the challenge.

As you've noted, hydraulic fluid is slick as snot; but I don't know about the taste. I removed the right rear wheel and both fenders, the seat and other trim panels and it was necessary for me to do that in order to install the kits.

The biggest thing that helped me was having a crapload of Crow's Foot and flare nut wrenches to do the job, along with taking my time, checking off each step on the instructions as I went, and keeping the surgical field clean to keep dirt out of the system.

Sounds like you did it the right way the first time.

In my case I don't think getting the instructions before hand would have helped me much as I wouldn't have noticed the "holes" in them until I actually got into the job. Clearly, better quality instructions are one of the things going with a JD gets you over LS.

I removed the seat, but removing the right rear tire and fender would have certainly made things easier. Lesson learned there -- follow all of the instructions or live with the consequences. Having chose the later I really can't complain about that.

To be honest a lot of my problems were self-inflicted. I bought the kit back in the summer and the waited until the last day of fall to install it -- outside no less. Weather was nice, but it got dark early when I assumed I would be finished. Working with lights was tougher than I thought it would be.

Well at least I know much more about the subject now than when I started.

 

[Chilly807]

I installed my own rear remote as well, all from pieces I bought separately, since nothing was available from Kubota in kit form. They really need to address that shortcoming.

Anyway, it beat the good out of 8-10 hours, even with all the pieces laid out and ready to go. Figuring out where I was going to mount the valve was the longest part, then welding a bracket in place and making sure everything fit.

Turned out well in the end, I had to shorten two hoses but nothing more than that.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/188519-adding-rear-remote-kubota-l3400.html

I agree with you that at the end of the process, you have a much better idea of how things work hydraulically.

Sean

 

[LittleBlueTractor]

I installed my own rear remote as well, all from pieces I bought separately, since nothing was available from Kubota in kit form. They really need to address that shortcoming.

Anyway, it beat the good out of 8-10 hours, even with all the pieces laid out and ready to go. Figuring out where I was going to mount the valve was the longest part, then welding a bracket in place and making sure everything fit.

Turned out well in the end, I had to shorten two hoses but nothing more than that.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/188519-adding-rear-remote-kubota-l3400.html

I agree with you that at the end of the process, you have a much better idea of how things work hydraulically.

Sean

Checked out your post and realized I had it pretty easy -- at least I didn't have to fabricate stuff. You just changed my whole perspective on the project. In my case the return line for the loader was too short to go under the floorboard with the rest of the lines as the port for it moved to the top of the new valve. I ran it directly between the seat and wheel well for now. Not a problem as I couldn't mount the tractor from the right side anyway due to the FEL control handle.

 

[mdunaway]

installed rear remote on my tc30 last year.said to remove the tire.wasnt needed,very easy install.

 

[mars1952]

I ordered and received my factory rear remote kit last week. (Actually, I asked for a duel rear remote kit, but got a single .....
Any advice would be appreciated -- really, anything at all.

Hi LittleBlueTractor: You might be happier with the single rear remote in the long run. I added 3 rear factory rear remotes to my JD4300. They all work well except that they interfere with each other and the interfere with they top link (space wise). If I had it to do over again I would install a single rear remote and hook it up to 3 or 4 electric selector valves. Surplus Center sells electric selector valves that can be daisy chained together. You can add as many remotes as you can afford.
Mars

 

[beenthere]

mars
Which electric selector valve did you get?
Do you have any pics?
I like your idea.
Thanks

 

[mjncad]

Mars is right about space being at a premium with the remotes and power-beyond on the 4200 - 4400 series rigs.

Picasa Web Albums - Matt - Hydraulics Up...#

Picasa Web Albums - Matt - Top-n-Tilt#

 

[LittleBlueTractor]

Hi LittleBlueTractor: You might be happier with the single rear remote in the long run. I added 3 rear factory rear remotes to my JD4300. They all work well except that they interfere with each other and the interfere with they top link (space wise). If I had it to do over again I would install a single rear remote and hook it up to 3 or 4 electric selector valves. Surplus Center sells electric selector valves that can be daisy chained together. You can add as many remotes as you can afford.
Mars

Funny, I thought the same thing after I finished the install. The single remote lines were already close to the 3 pt. lift arms (see attached pic.) I was originally planning to use the rear remote to operate the grapple and the 3 pt top link. Changed my mind after I realized I was going to have to insert QC adapters in the hose to be able to remove the FEL. Ordered one of these last week to divert the bucket curl function to the grapple with an electric switch.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7852&catname=hydraulic

And ordered this to control it:

Amazon.com: Pilot Automotive PM-2109S Motorsport Silver Manual Shift Knob with Purge/Starter Button: Automotive

Not sure how I'm plumb it up yet -- thought I could better figure that out after getting my hands on it. I'm open to suggestions though....

 

[mjncad]

Looking at that control knob, I have to ask if you are planning on adding an ejector seat to your rig.