Installed extra lights on the ROPS

[techwrtr2]

Now I need to find a cup holder I can hook up to my ROPS. Anyone got any pics or ideas of how they did theirs?

I have an adjustable and magnetic cup holder. Sticks to the fender when I want to carry a beverage along and removes so I do't destroy it in the rough country.

One of a kind, I used an adjustable cup holder I got many years ago at WTMart and glued some microwave magnetron magnets on the bottom with a bit of duct tape to scratch things a little less.

Works well.

 

[Rob-D]

I was going to add some light on my roll bar but I was concerned about how many bugs it would draw in the summer time. On my 755 with the lights in the fender it seems to draw them to me worse then the 4700 does with no lights back there. Do any of you have a problem with that.

Never thought about bugs! That makes a dedicated switch even more desirable.
Rob

 

[JD755]

Bugs from the fender headlights are a problem. I try to minimize work time then. Had the same concerns about adding roll bar lights. Think if I did that I would just use them during the winter.

 

[kennyd]

Bugs are a problem, but in the summer it stays light out so late I don't find myself using the tractor often in the dark. During the winter is when I use it in the dark plowing snow but the bugs are not an issue then.

 

[techwrtr2]

I've never been much bothered by the bugs at night. They are there of course but I've generally not been bothered by them. My secondary lights are wired to come on with the headlights but not off the same circuit. The headlights merely trigger a relay which then drives my lights. I pull power right off the battery.

 

[Rob-D]

Bugs are a problem, but in the summer it stays light out so late I don't find myself using the tractor often in the dark. During the winter is when I use it in the dark plowing snow but the bugs are not an issue then.

Kenny,
Did you run a dedicated switch?

Rob

 

[kennyd]

Kenny,
Did you run a dedicated switch?

Rob

No, four of them:laughing:

Take a look:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/69583-roll-over-protective-structure-rollbar.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/110476-joystick-handle-horn-install.html

 

[Ezlivn]

actually the ROPS lights only work with the light switch in the high beam position. Low beam off. works for me:thumbsup:

 

[caliber1]

Nice job.
I just ordered front lights for my 3320 (part # LVB25546) and I think I'll run another switch to the spare slot on my fender. Awhile back someone had the part number for the switch. Does anyone have it off hand?

Thanks,
Rob

Rob, the part number I used wasMIA10204. They have a light symbol on them and are water proof.

 

[MikeyB]

Nice job.
I just ordered front lights for my 3320 (part # LVB25546) and I think I'll run another switch to the spare slot on my fender. Awhile back someone had the part number for the switch. Does anyone have it off hand?

Thanks,
Rob

I used JD part # AM117324. It is actually a switch from a Gator and has
a light symbol on it as well. It fit perfectly in the console slot. Hopefully one part# is considerably cheaper than the other.

Mike

 

[Rob-D]

Thanks guys, I'll check them out. My lights came in they are made by Speaker as I guess most of you know.

Rob

 

[cmboal]

Hi, everyone's lights look great! I just finished up mine on my 3520 cab model. This is what I did:

The headlight / work light project: Hella Oval 100 Double Beam Work Lamp (Long Range). Bought them for $60 each on amazon.

I have been really unhappy with the amount of light that the factory lights put out. So I bought the Hella lights and installed them. I had to do some creative modifications, but I'm REALLY happy with the outcome.

I removed the front factory lights and brackets. I then removed the flashers and drilled a hole up through the bottom of them. The way they are designed, their is a "pocket" behind the actual amber light so I didn't have to actually drill into the light cavity so they are still completely sealed. I mounted the bracket for each Hella light underneath the flasher housing (almost the same way the rear work lights are factory mounted). Next I took the brackets off and painted them black since they were silver. Not a necessary step, but it looked better. You'll also notice that these new lights have two sets of 55 watt bulbs in each housing (110 watts each vs 37 watts each for factory). There are three wires on the back; low beam hot, high beam hot, and ground. Now since there are only two wires for the factory lights I had to tap into my beacon hot, which worked out perfect because I can now get another factory switch and plug it into my "beacon harness" located on the side panel. This will allow me to toggle my extra lights on the front from a switch that will be right next to my rear work lights. I did test this with my factory rear work light switch plugged into the "beacon" harness and it worked perfect, four lights on up front now with the switch on. Also, doing this gave me two extra lights that I can use on the rear. I now have an extra light pointed to each side. I took the bracket, plug, and light assembly for each front light I removed and mounted it to the outside of my existing rear work light bracket. It worked perfect, almost like it was meant to be there. I wire tapped into the other light and now I have four back lights.

here is my you tube link:

YouTube - Deere 3520 cab headlight and work light mod