Oregon bars and chains vs Stihl replacements.

[Topkicker]

I have been thinking about trying an Oregon solid nose 20in bar OREGON brand Laser-Tip Plus Solid-Nose guide bars for chainsaws with an Oregon brand Super 20 chain on my MS 290. Does anyone run this setup? I'm currently running a 20in Stihl bar with a RSC (full chisel) chain. Will I gain any performance with the Oregon? Thanks in advance for any input.

 

[RobertN]

Not sure on the bar, but I have had the best use out of Stihl chain.

My Husky has a Husky bar and Oregon chain. Bar seems as well built as my Stihl. Chain though? Stihl all the way. Just seems to hold up better.

 

[SpringHollow]

I have never found a chain that is sharper than Stihl chain.

Ken

 

[Storm56]

I switched to Oregon Power Match bars and Oregon LGX Chisel chain. I have NO regrets. Check out Baileys and Amicks on line stores. Significant savings over what Stihl charges and 97% as good.

 

[LD1]

If you can get stihl chain at a good price, it is by far the best. A near second that I have found is the woodland pro that baileys sells. The rest are all about the same. Carlton, windsor, orgeon (the ones with the blue cutters) are all about the same but not quite as good as the other two I mentioned.

I was told awhile back that stihl chain is better because the use more chrome in the steel during MFG'ing. I don't know if that is true but there cutters do seem to be the hardest. The problem is price. The cheapest I can get a 24" loop of stihl full chisel is ~ 24 bucks. I can get the woodland pro for ~ $16-17. For the money, that gives the edge to woodland IMO.

Same story with the bars too. I have ran oregon a lot due to price and avalibility. Stihl bars are about 2x's the cost, and as good as they are, they don't last 2x's as long IMO. So Money ahead to go with oregon.

The last three bars we bought were carlton bars made by TSUMURA. They are a japanese company an I have heard nothing but good things about these bars on other websites. But they are a discontinued bar that required a little modification to the mount. But for the price, it was well worth it to me. Bailey's - Carlton 24" Premium Sprocket Tip Chainsaw Bar 84 Drive Links

 

[jonyyuma]

I use an oregon bar, but cannot recommend a Solid Tip bar, they just burn the chain bottom and wear. The sprocket tip is years superior to solid. I have several of their chains too, the same guage.Jy.

 

[newbury]

Be very careful that you get enough chain oil diispensed. Stihl has these highly engineered bars and chains which require less chain oil.

So on my 660's w/ a 28" Stihl bar and 28" stihl chain I get enough oil when it's cranked full. If I put on a non Stihl chain it's not enough.

Forget about it on the 42" bar, I hire a fuel truck to make deliveries.

 

[20 20]

I will never go back to oregon chains over stihl chains. Stihl last longer and stays sharp longer, so IMO stihl is actually cheaper in the long run. I have nothing against oregon, I just feel stihl is that much better.

 

[Scooby074]

i agree with the others,

Oregon roller tip bars are great, but its hard to beat Stihl's chain

 

[Kubota 2350]

I've had the best luck with Stihl bars, and I've tried about all of them, Oregon bars seem to be too soft, and wear faster.
Chain, Stihl has the best hands down.

 

[Storm56]

If all these people who are in support of Stihl chains and bars are comparing them to the cheap junk you find in TSC or whatever I would agree with their statements. However when you are comparing Oregon's professional line such as those I listed in a previous post it is a different story. I have 3 Stihl saws, 3 Dolmar/Makita saws and 1 Jonsered, the oldest since 1982. I have cut quite a fair amount of wood over the years, average about 15 cord a year. Trust me, the products I listed perform at about 97% of the Stihl stuff at about 60% or less of the cost. I will not be buying anymore Stihl stuff anytime soon.

Go check out some info at arboristsite.com. There are the diehard Stihl guys there too but also lots of pros that make their living with saws that are quite happy with some other products such as Oregon, Carlton, Woodland Pro etc.

 

[jonyyuma]

So are you talking about a solid tip bar or one with a roller-tip? Yes, my saw does sling a lot of oil from the chain and I grease the sprocket on the bar end..Maybe it is the chain lube, could that be a big difference in wear on the bars and chains? Opinions? Jy.

 

[arrow]

solid nose bars are thought to hold up better in dirty conditions or if one does much plunge cutting they hold up a bit better.You are always better off using a sprocket tipped bar imo. Solid nose holds no advantage in my mind and was only put on chainsaws when there weren't any such thing as a sprocket nosed bar. If you are cutting that much, get a bar you can replace the sprocket on. I used to cut wood for a living and wouldn't be caught dead with a solid nose. If you get one, you aren't going to like it if you have cut wood with a sprocketed bar.

 

[Topkicker]

I've never used a solid nose bar before. On Oregon's website the solid nose is rated "best". I thought there may be some sort of advantage using a solid nose bar. It also cost more than the ones with a sprocket. Now I'm confused. I was just looking at my options and a possible upgrade form my current setup. I'm happy with the Stihl bar and RSC chain. Just didn't want to miss out on any performance gain that may be out there. Thanks for all the info. Here's a link on the bars that Oregon offers on the Stihl MS290. OREGONｮ Hand Held Chain Saw Replacement Parts The specs on my MS290 is .325 pitch and .063 bar gauge. Note the solid nose bar has a "best" rating. ????

 

[arrow]

The key to the "best" rating is what criteria was utilized. Metal used, lamination amounts, hardness, etc. etc. Also what I think is peculiar is that hardnose bars are often called "professional" bars or "bars for the professional" Well, I've done all kinds of cutting and got paid for it for 30 years so I guess I was a professional and cannot think of a situation where I prefered having a hardnosed bar. It is not like we are cutting cement and I would also assume some professionals like a solid bar, I'm not one of them. I can easily understand how misleading an ad for something like this can be especially when they are prioritizing something like "quality". Get a quality sprocket bar and you'll be a step ahead of the game.

 

[art]

I have been thinking about trying an Oregon solid nose 20in bar OREGON brand Laser-Tip Plus Solid-Nose guide bars for chainsaws with an Oregon brand Super 20 chain on my MS 290. Does anyone run this setup? I'm currently running a 20in Stihl bar with a RSC (full chisel) chain. Will I gain any performance with the Oregon? Thanks in advance for any input.

On a 290 I think you have to much bar now! I like the way they run with a 16"! To put a solid nose on will mean more horsepower loss. We have sold both chains, people ask for Stihl chain, Oregon, oh well?

The Stihl lasts longer and stays sharp longer by about 30% at a minimum so the price difference for aggrivation takes a hit. There will always be someone that is happy with Oregon.

 

[RandyT]

If you ask stihl they say they make there own chain. If you ask oregon they will say for all practical purposes stihl makes there own chain. The blue colored cutter is an oregon patent (my understanding). Windsor is owned by oregon I don't know about carlton. If you read the description for oregon and stihl chains they have the same description word for word.

 

[newbury]

Since Randyt mentioned a blue color cutter I'll ask here -
has ANYONE seen any provider of colored tie straps? Something so when I make my chain then go to sharpen it I've an easy reference mark where I started sharpening.

 

[20 20]

Newbury, use a crayon, I use logging crayons but have used regular before. To make it stick better I rub the chain{one tooth} while it is still hot. If the chain has allready cooled down then I just hit one tooth with my lighter then rub the crayon over that tooth. Easy to see does not harm anything and melts of in the 1st few cuts.

 

[LD1]

Since Randyt mentioned a blue color cutter I'll ask here -
has ANYONE seen any provider of colored tie straps? Something so when I make my chain then go to sharpen it I've an easy reference mark where I started sharpening.

I just use a sharpie and color the tooth.

Some saws, depending on length, have two cutters in a row on the same side. I use that as a reference as well.

But I do know that some manufactures us ONE colored tie strap on the chain. I have one on my 116 dolmar that is a bright yellow. But I don't know what brand the chain is and I am not homw now to look.