TC35D PTO won't stop turning

[tly]

I've noticed that my PTO won't stop turning when lever is disengaged. It isn't under full power as I can stop it by lowering the bush hog. Any ideas?

 

[doall]

the rotation of your bush hog may be turning it after you disengage.

 

[Jbrink64]

sounds like the pto clutch brake failed. They fail under "high inertia loads", like a bush hog. There is an update for it.

 

[tly]

It's not the enertia from the brush hog. The shaft turns even when there is no implement attached. What does the update involve?

 

[jinman]

What happens with a rotary cutter is that people will disengage at full PTO rpm and the PTO brake has to stop the cutter's rotation. After awhile, the PTO brake wears out and starts to fail. Most of us have found that we can lower the engine's RPM to idle and let the engine slow the cutter. Once the cutter has slowed, disengaging the PTO lets the brake stop the cutter with much less effort. The PTO brake and hydraulic clutch are one integral unit. There have been updates and improvements on this mechanism as Jbrink64 indicated. One of these updates/improvements relates to a tab that can be damaged and cause the brake to not set properly. Even after this update, engaging and disengaging the PTO at low rpm will ensure a very long life. I have a tractor built in July of 2000 and its PTO clutch/brake works like the day I brought it home because I'm very careful to reduce the shock of high rpm engagement/disengagement. I'm not saying that you have not operated properly. I'm just offering this advice on the chance that you are not aware of it.

 

[brin]

I have always engaged or disengaged my PTO on my tractors at idle speed - never ever any higher RPM than idle.

 

[Carykong]

I have a TC35 hydro. What is the proper idle rpm? My tractor idles a bit over 1000rpm. Seems a bit high?

 

[jinman]

I have a TC35 hydro. What is the proper idle rpm? My tractor idles a bit over 1000rpm. Seems a bit high?

My TC45 idles at 1000 rpm + when warm also. Compared to 2600 rpm for 540 PTO rpm, 1000 rpm is very reasonable.

 

[tly]

Thanks for the info. I always engage the PTO slowly but at a higher RPM. As far as disengagement I never thought it mattered but apparently it does and I will change my habits now that I know. I suppose getting this issue corrected is going to take a trip to the dealer. Anyone have any idea of what this entails or costs?

Tom

 

[beenthere]

If someone here can help, are you interested in doing it yourself?

 

[jinman]

I suppose getting this issue corrected is going to take a trip to the dealer. Anyone have any idea of what this entails or costs?

Tom

Tom, I think the dealer will first remove your seat where there is an access port to the PTO control valve and cover plate on top of the rear transmission. He will remove the valve and plate and inspect your PTO clutch. If it is only a damaged stopping plate, that can be replaced without removing the entire clutch.

If the complete clutch has to come out, the Repair Manual calls for splitting the tractor between the front transmission case and rear transmission case so the shaft the PTO mounted on can be driven out the rear of the housing to allow the clutch to be removed. This is a much more critical issue than just replacing the stopping plate.

I don't believe the dealer will be able to tell you how big a job it will be until he gets the cover off the transmission and inspectes the parts.

I've uploaded two diagrams. The first one shows how to access the PTO valve through the access under the seat. The second shows the plate the PTO valve is mounted on and what the clutch looks like with the plate removed. The flat plate on the top of the PTO clutch with the notch in it is the PTO stop plate and what may be damaged on your tractor. Of course, it also might be ear on the PTO that slides into the slot. That would mean the whole clutch has to be removed.

 

[tly]

Holy moly that looks like it could run into a lot of money. I guess I'll need to think about that one. If I don't do this am I doing more damage? It is really a minor annoyance right now. thanks for the replys.

 

[jinman]

If I don't do this am I doing more damage? It is really a minor annoyance right now. thanks for the replys.

Well, it might get worse since everytime you turn off the PTO, the ear has to "find" the slot and drop in. If the slot has become rounded or the ear worn off, it will only get worse. Also, while having your rotary cutter hooked up, you can stop it's motion by lowering it to the ground, but what about something like a post-hole digger or tiller? The fact that these will spin all the time could be dangerous, especially a post-hole digger. So, depending on what attachments you have and use with the PTO, you will have to make the decision on how critical the repair is.

 

[tobitobi]

tly,

You're right--pretty expensive (I believe just under 2,000). I've had to do it. Same symptoms. I do very little brush hog (5') but lots of 7' finish mower. I usually (slowly) engage/disengage mower in mid-rpm range, but perhaps that's still too much strain on the mechinism.

Since I rely on the tractor for home and some business, I had mine done after about a year of putting up with the PTO always turning. My dealer said it was just a matter of time until it failed.

JINMAN is probably right on with his assessment.

 

[tly]

Yes, I should probably look into getting this fixed. The only PTO attachements that I have are a finish mower and bush hog which are both done for the year. Tobitobi, when your dealer said it was only a matter of time before it failed did he mean that the PTO would stop working entirely? If that is the case it would certainly force the issue for me.

 

[tobitobi]

tly,

I believe that is what he meant. It comes down to when not if, and my opinion is that I'd rather do it when I can arrange than for it to fail completly in the middle of a job or when I really need to use. Best wishes.