Tranny Fluid

[kemary]

Yes, the traveller premium fluid is jd303 compatible.

 

[clemsonfor]

Yep, if you look at the back label it says meets JD303 specs and the newer ones as well so yes. I think its like 20 wt or 10w 20 viscosity or something, but that is not important as it meets the jd303 spec which is what we need.

 

[branman1971]

Yep, if you look at the back label it says meets JD303 specs and the newer ones as well so yes. I think its like 20 wt or 10w 20 viscosity or something, but that is not important as it meets the jd303 spec which is what we need.

Thats great news. The front label is in not too good shape, and the back label has been sun-bleached so I couldnt tell. I called the local NAPA here that takes in used oil and asked them if they would take oil that had water in it and they said no and had no other ideas for me, so, i built a fire. No more Oil...

 

[branman1971]

So the bad fluid is drained and the screen is on the way so I can put her back together. In the meantime, is there anything else within the tranny or hydraulic line system that I can do or check on while I am waiting? I was thinking if it was possible to blow out the hydraulic lines in case there is "stuff" in there, cause there is stuff in the bottom of my tranny, and when I removed the screen it was torn up.

 

[careyo63]

IMO.I would just get it back together and run it 20 hrs.or so then drain it and clean the screen again and see whats on it. My bet there won't be much but most likely still may show alittle milkey from the old fluid and water. While your waiting Go ahead and flush the radiator,oil/filter change and check your Air and fuel filters. Clean the battery connections and hit all your greese zerks.Then when you get the Hydrolic sys. up and going your in good shape for hrs. and can enjoy some seat time.And with a peace of mind that all your maint. is up to date and everything is working. Then you'll find out like everyone else on here has found that the Yanmars are hard to beat and then betting you will give it alot more TLC.cleaning it up. :thumbsup:

Carey

 

[branman1971]

This is where my o-ring was when I took the old screen out. Maybe it slid down as I pulled the screen out. I am pretty sure the O-ring goes up against the faceplate but this o-ring sure seems a small diameter to keep any fluid from leaking out. Anyone know if this looks right?

 

[California]

That is where the o-ring belongs, on that shoulder a couple of inches in. It separates the sump from the small chamber holding filtered fluid - where the pump draws from.

 

[branman1971]

That is where the o-ring belongs, on that shoulder a couple of inches in. It separates the sump from the small chamber holding filtered fluid - where the pump draws from.

What keeps fluid from leaking out of faceplate?

 

[branman1971]

To get this thing going, will I need to prime the hydraulics somehow?

 

[clemsonfor]

aS FAR AS I HAVE READ THESE THINGS SELF PRIME THEMSELVES AND YOU DONT HAVE TO DO ANYTHING.

 

[California]

What keeps fluid from leaking out of faceplate?

I bought the paper gasket along with the screen. Then I used RTV sealer on one side of the paper. But I've started using RTV alone for this sort of seal on my Yanmars. That isn't under pressure, it's just a reservoir, so any sealer that will be removable later should do.

Mine didn't need any priming, and I think that is normal.

 

[Gary Fowler]

That oil looks just like what my Vietnam rebuilt 4220 had it in when I bought it. It wasnt water, it was really fine clay particles and they would stop up the screen and the filter (mine has a $35 filter also). I flushed, drained, changed oil, cleaned the sump screen etc for months before I finally got all the crude out of the system. Used the diesel flush also as recommended here. When I removed the screen the crude would feel like slime on the screen. 4 oil changes and 3 new filters later it is clear oil again. Thankfully Hoye had a good stock of those filters. I used the Atwood JD 303 equivalent oil in mine and have not had any other issues with the pump. Now the 3 PH is jumping up and down cycling. Have to fix that one day.

 

[branman1971]

That oil looks just like what my Vietnam rebuilt 4220 had it in when I bought it. It wasnt water, it was really fine clay particles and they would stop up the screen and the filter (mine has a $35 filter also). I flushed, drained, changed oil, cleaned the sump screen etc for months before I finally got all the crude out of the system. Used the diesel flush also as recommended here. When I removed the screen the crude would feel like slime on the screen. 4 oil changes and 3 new filters later it is clear oil again. Thankfully Hoye had a good stock of those filters. I used the Atwood JD 303 equivalent oil in mine and have not had any other issues with the pump. Now the 3 PH is jumping up and down cycling. Have to fix that one day.

I wish my filters were 35 bucks. I think they are up to 55 or so now. So I guess I can plan on not having this cleaned up for another 3 or 4 fluid changes. Bummer.

 

[normde2001]

I wish my filters were 35 bucks. I think they are up to 55 or so now. So I guess I can plan on not having this cleaned up for another 3 or 4 fluid changes. Bummer.

Your 1700 does not use hydraulic filters, only washable pickup screens.

 

[branman1971]

Your 1700 does not use hydraulic filters, only washable pickup screens.

Yep, sorry...got confused...Guess thats why my screen is pricey...reusable...