30 hp Dozer blows fuses

[SOS]

I have a 30 hp chinese dozer that was runing fine until a few weeks ago. What happened is that when I went to start it, note that it was left out in the rain for a week, it blew two fuses. So I replaced them, a number of tiems and it finally started. It did this for a week or so with me going through anumber of fuses. Now it won't start at all it just blows fuses when I turn the key. Does this suggest:

• Starter
• Ignition switch
• fuse box
• short at some other switch
• or should I just punt and get a mechanic

 

[teg]

I'm going out on a limb here... wire worn through the plastic cover and is grounding out between the parts you listed. All I can say is follow the wires and look for burn marks (since it's blown so many fuses). then replace or just repair it. Shouldn't be "hard" to do, just time consuming...

 

[Bob Rooks]

You didn't state what year it is. Does it have a ROPS? Engine screens on?
You could have a starter solenoid full of water and/or you could have a key switch full of water. Or as teg suggested, you could have chafed wiring somewhere.
Disconnect the negative cable at the battery, lower the instrument panel and inspect all of the wiring.
Let us know what you find please.

 

[SOS]

I will start that this afternoon thanks.

 

[Diamondpilot]

The first place I would look at is the key switch itself. The Chinese key switches are know for crummy construction. I would guess that it got water in it and rusted up.

Chris

 

[Transit]

SOS, you did not say what these fuses do, which circuit they are in, any diagrams that you could work with?
Any chance a mouse has been nibbling on the wires?

 

[SOS]

Its a TY395 ST 2002

The switch theory sounds good

 

[SOS]

SOS, you did not say what these fuses do, which circuit they are in, any diagrams that you could work with?
Any chance a mouse has been nibbling on the wires?

It blows the fuse to the starter and to the fuel scale meter/engine speed hour meter. Note my fuel meter does not work. See attached diagram.

here's a twist.. I just went out there and blew in the key switch and then i unscrewed the netrual switch and screwed it back in , I also lowered the dash, looked in there for anything strange, and then tried to start it and it blew a few more fuses but then it started. Im going to wait a while and go back as see if I can start it again.

Any ideas on where to buy a new Key Switch?

 

[Transit]

Walks like a duck, quacks like a duck. Yeah, it's the key switch. Still, eyeball the wires to see if Mickey and friends have been at it.

 

[SOS]

Funny you say that, there was a mouse running around in there and my darn cat, who sleeps on the seat of the dozer, just watched it. I think I also need to replace the cat-o-meter.

 

[tommu56]

Ive been known to rube goldberg stuff but I would look for a good toggle switch and 2 push buttons if the switch is unreasonable or un reachable

I couldn't read the print but usually on and off toggle (might need 2 poles)
One push button for glow plugs
2nd one for the starter

tom

 

[Rich Waugh]

A replacement switch of the Ford cold-start variety is available here for about eleven bucks. Part number E7NN11N501AB is what you want.

See this post (post #4) for wiring details courtesy of Larry G, a very knowledgeable guy when it comes to tractor electrics.

Hope this takes care of it for you!

Rich

 

[Bob Rooks]

Ive been known to rube goldberg stuff but I would look for a good toggle switch and 2 push buttons if the switch is unreasonable or un reachable.

And there goes any potential you had for security. There is more to a key switch than convienience, even if you consider price...

 

[GuglioLS]

To find out if the switch is what's causing fuses to blow try these troubleshooting steps....
Is the switch mounted to metal or Fiberglass? If the switch is mounted to metal AND the case of the switch is shorting internally to +12 then, yes the switch can be bad. If the switch is mounted to Fiberglas (insulator) then the switch is most likely still good.

If swtich is mounted to metal - Try un-mounting the switch and have it "dangle" (case not torching any metal). Turn switch, if fuse still blows then switch is NOT bad....Whatever load is down stream of the switch is what's drawing more current than the fuse is rated for. Disconnect the glow plugs if it has them to rule those out. I suspect the starter solenoid is corroded internally shorting out windings. Disconnect the energize wire from the solenoid, turn the key several times see it the fuse blows then.

Does it have a clutch safety switch? (the schematic shows one) The clutch safety switch or one of it's wires could be shorting out to ground.

How many amps is the fuse that's blowing? You said it's blowing two fuses right? I can read the schematic, if the fuel gauge fuse is blowing then perhaps the fuel gauge is somehow shorted, I think you said that wasn't working anyway right? Perhaps that's why? Disconnect and tape off any and all wires going to the fuel gauge, to eliminate that drawing any excessive current. Through a process of elimination you'll find and fix it.

Larry

 

[GuglioLS]

I rotated, re-sized and marked up the schematic you posted. Open it up full size to see markup notes.

You might want to pull out the two position front and rear lamp switch. If the one it has is anything like what I've seen then those are notorious for shorting out. Attached is a pic of that switch. There is a screw, that when it comes loose usually dead shorts out to the metal panel it's mounted to.

Larry

 

[Diamondpilot]

Larry, you are the man.

I would put a Ford switch in it. I am 99% sure the key switch is your issue unless that lazy cat of yours let the mice have a good time on the wires.

Chris

 

[Bob Rooks]

Way to go Larry, you got it.:thumbsup:

And for those that insist on leaving their investment out in the heavy rain, I would suggest waterproof ignition switch - Google Product Search, and http://www.westmarine.com/1/1/3628-4-position-sealed-ignition-switch.html

 

[SOS]

I cleaned off the key switch and the netrual switch andturned the key torward the direction that does not use the prewarmer. and the first time i did this, the started clicked and when i turned it again, it started right up. I stopped and started it a few times and it worked fine. Then I used it for about 2 hours and tuned it off and she started blowing fuses again.

It does have a metal dash
I am suspicious of the netrual switch. It here away to by pass this to see if its the problem?

I'm going out there after I finish my coffee to try again and try droping the key out of the dash and try it.

Thanks all.

 

[GuglioLS]

.....SNIP....SNIP....
It does have a metal dash
I am suspicious of the netrual switch. It here away to by pass this to see if its the problem?

I'm going out there after I finish my coffee to try again and try droping the key out of the dash and try it.

Thanks all.

Anything can be bypassed, Sort term you can try bypassing the clutch SAFETY switch to see if it's shorting out to ground. To do that, remove the two wires going to the switch (at the switch) then connect those two wires together and tape.

But before doing that try pulling out all fuses except the main fuse (see the schematic I marked up for info on that). Keep in mind the battery will not be charging as one of those fuses your going to pull is the charging circuit.

You keep saying it's blowing fuses as in more than just the main fuse. This make me believe something other than the starter circuit is the issue. Pulling those other fuses will confirm or deny that theory and go for there.

Larry

 

[SOS]

First of all, thanks for all the suggestions. Thus far I have pulled all the fuses except for one and I jumped the neutral switch per your instructions and the dozer started this weekend (after I jumped the battery). So I ran it for a few hours and put it away in a tent to keep it dry. I also bought a ford key switch but have not put it in yet. I will give you an update next week.

Note that prior to jumping the neutral switch it was still blowing fuses.

Thanks again.