PTO Fuse Blows Under Load

[PhilGG]

I have a 2008 TYM 273 HST. The problem is that whenever the PTO is under a load for several minutes, the 7.5A fuse blows. It appears the warmer the engine or ambient temperature, the quicker the fuse blows until it only moves a few feet and blows (this, of course, happening after it has just been replaced). I’ve replaced the PTO ON/OFF switch and swapped out the PTO shaft. No luck. I’ve reset the fuse slot to get a better grip on the fuse, but still no luck. I’ve checked for loose wires and harnesses, but can’t find any.
When I engage the PTO for the Brushcutter, it shakers at max PTO RPM, but that doesn’t seem to trip the fuse.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

Guess is you have a wire with worn insulation somewhere, and as things vibrate it shorts. Just a guess. I'm away from home and my manuals and tractors so can't look at things to come up with a better response.

 

[Bud Soda]

When I had a 273 I had a lot of problems with chafed wiring harness under the dash. I built a subframe connector to stop the chassis from flexing.

 

[PhilGG]

Thanks for your replies guys. I’ll try harder to inspect those wires under the dash and look at the wire insulation. I’ll definitely give feedback on what I find.

 

[Gregster613]

Thanks for your replies guys. I’ll try harder to inspect those wires under the dash and look at the wire insulation. I’ll definitely give feedback on what I find.

I'll sure be interested to learn whatever you find out is causing this! My 273 is a 2009 model and hasn't given me any pto problems - YET - but I'm always ears as to what "Might" be next to plague me! Thanks for any feedback!

 

[PhilGG]

So far the only thing I find is that one blade of the 7.5A Fuse sits “loosely” in its position band when I touch or try to jiggle the fuse, the engine cuts out. I’ve looked inside the console below the dash and jiggled wiring and connectors with no issues. I’m still digging. It feels like there’s some kind of metal spur in the area of the fuse. Still trouble-shooting.

 

[grsthegreat]

You need to look at a schematic and verify that fuse doesnt do anything else. It could be the wire going to the pto indicator light. I had a slight nick in an ac control wire that drove me nuts. Would be months between failures. I finally unwrapped all the wire bundles and found the issue. Was a 20 ga control wire. Small nick.

 

[JTKub]

Do other implements have the same effect on the PTO?

 

[PhilGG]

I don’t know because the only implement I use is the brush cutter.

 

[Jake99]

I don't know the T273, but isn't the PTO Hydraulic actuated clutch activated, Controlled by a solenoid.
Basicly the Load on the PTO cannot create a short. Like people already said, wiring touching the frame can be the cause.
But a bad Coil can have a similar behaviour, i have seen it on airport equipment. When it heats up it triggers a short.

 

[Lucky Dog]

Perhaps a larger fuse?

 

[PhilGG]

OK. The coil issue looks like a big job and out of my expertise. I’m confronted with a second problem now. While trying to troubleshoot the pto issue, I have somehow managed to incapacitate the dash from illuminating and getting power to the dash or crank the engine. I have a new parking brake switch installed but I can’t get power to the dash, etc. The battery is tested and good. I’ve checked the “usual suspect” safeties with no success.

 

[Bud Soda]

OK. The coil issue looks like a big job and out of my expertise. I’m confronted with a second problem now. While trying to troubleshoot the pto issue, I have somehow managed to incapacitate the dash from illuminating and getting power to the dash or crank the engine. I have a new parking brake switch installed but I can’t get power to the dash, etc. The battery is tested and good. I’ve checked the “usual suspect” safeties with no success.

Check Fues again.

 

[PhilGG]

I did. Yanked each one out and inspected them. No luck. Even swapped an extra battery I had…no luck. I don’t believe there’s a short. I’m leaning towards a safety feature. This failure occurred out of the blue. It just stopped working; it didn’t happen as a result that tractor was working the field. Totally baffled…but I sincerely appreciate everyone’s input and suggestions.

 

[Bud Soda]

I did. Yanked each one out and inspected them. No luck. Even swapped an extra battery I had…no luck. I don’t believe there’s a short. I’m leaning towards a safety feature. This failure occurred out of the blue. It just stopped working; it didn’t happen as a result that tractor was working the field. Totally baffled…but I sincerely appreciate everyone’s input and suggestions.

I hope you get it worked out. When I had my 273 I repaired the wiring probably 3 times. I finally put a heavy wire loom around the main wiring. There was so many places that the wiring was chafed. Causing it to blow fuses, shut off and would not start. Onetime it lost power to the fuel solenoid. It would only run if I held the key in the start position. All caused by wires rubbing on the chassis and the bottom of the dash panel.

 

[PhilGG]

Thank you. I’ll keep your suggestion under my to-do list.

 

[PhilGG]

What exactly is a PAL Fuse? Is it different than what you find in a typical fuse box! It seems the term ‘PAL fuse’ covers a broad gamut of this term.

 

[grsthegreat]

What exactly is a PAL Fuse? Is it different than what you find in a typical fuse box! It seems the term ‘PAL fuse’ covers a broad gamut of this term.

P.A.L. Fuses
PAL fuses offer dependable circuit protection for automotive and industrial applications, effectively handling high current loads. The fuses are made for systems that require steady, reliable performance in demanding conditions. PAL fuses are particularly useful in many Japanese and domestically-built vehicles.

• Ideal for high-current automotive applications
• Durable construction withstands harsh environments
• Compact design fits various fuse holders
• Protects circuits from overloads and short circuits

There very heavy duty fuses

 

[BryceSteiner]

did you get this resolved? On my T-25 I had a fuse blow randomly for the PTO solenoid. I bought a new solenoid but that wasn't it. STrangely enough it was a plastic nut that held the solenoid onto the shaft. I could get it tight and it would run for a bit and then blow again. I went to a steel nut and it has never blown since (It's much easier to tighten than the plastic one that I'm sure would strip easily). I'm still not sure why, but it was very frustrating at the time. I've since ran tillers, chippers, mower, etc. and all have been fine.