3-Point Hitch pto cement mixer

[radioman]

I have sold several for the BX 22 series. No problems reported. Ken Sweet

that is good to know

 

[hawkeye08]

Maybe one that is slightly smaller would be better. I see a 5 cubic ft one (27 cubic feet in cubic yard) that would not be as heavy. Or make sure you don't put more in than what your tractor can handle.

5 cubic ft of concrete can weigh over 600lbs, plus several hundred for the mixer, you can get over 800lbs pretty fast. When it is dumping, the weight moves away from the tractor (before it falls out of the mixer).

Looks like they use hydraulic top link to dump, so you will need remotes or borrow a loader circuit...

Good luck

 

[sweettractors]

With a FEL adding front ballast, you don't have to worry about the front coming off the ground. Ken Sweet

 

[Larry Caldwell]

What's your mix recipe - or is it an old family secret?

For general purpose concrete, 3 shovels of aggregate to 1 shovel of cement. Add just enough water to make the concrete workable. Too much water weakens the concrete. You don't want it so wet it is soupy.

I generally buy aggregate from a local sand and gravel company. Well designed aggregate has a gradation from sand to coarse that doesn't leave air pockets in the cement. In extremity, I have used basalt 3/4 minus with plenty of fines in it, and it made pretty strong concrete. I wouldn't want to try flatwork with the stuff, though. It was pretty rough.

In the old days, we used to just go to the river and shovel up sand and gravel. If you toss a shovel full in a bucket of water and the water gets muddy, it is too dirty to make good concrete. My area is wealthy in rock. In some areas, you have a hard time finding good rock for concrete.

Go to a mason supply for your cement, where they rotate their stock frequently. It may have been sitting around a lumber yard drawing moisture for over a year. Fresh cement has the texture of all purpose flour. If it has hard lumps in it, it has lost part of its strength while it is still in the bag.

I am a big believer in rebar. Hand mixing concrete is a lot of work. I don't want it shifting and cracking, so I put rebar in everything I do. Rebar is numbered by 1/8ths of an inch, so a #3 is 3/8 of an inch, #4 is half inch. #4 in a 12x12 mat is about right for flat work.

 

[Larry Caldwell]

I have sold several for the BX 22 series. No problems reported. Ken Sweet

Concrete weighs 3600 lbs. per cubic yard, so your mixer plus concrete would weigh in at around 1600 or 1700 lbs., which approaches the weight of some small tractors. I think someone mentioned putting rocks in the front loader, which would be a real good idea for any small tractor. Anyone can check the specs on their tractor for weight and 3-point capacity. Almost any 3-point would handle the weight, but a small tractor may end up with its wheels in the air. :laughing:

 

[dfkrug]

We have the new 1/3 yard capacity for $799 + modest shipping.

That's the one I have had for many years. My concern is that the BX
is not tall enough for proper dumping.

Lots of TBN posts over the years on the Mixer80.

As for mix design, the strongest concrete will have a high Portland cement
ratio, a low slump, and large aggregate. Mixing my own, I have done lots of
0" slump mud with 1.5" aggregate (with rebar). Super-strong and no cracks.

 

[sweettractors]

That's the one I have had for many years. My concern is that the BX
is not tall enough for proper dumping.

Lots of TBN posts over the years on the Mixer80.

As for mix design, the strongest concrete will have a high Portland cement
ratio, a low slump, and large aggregate. Mixing my own, I have done lots of
0" slump mud with 1.5" aggregate (with rebar). Super-strong and no cracks.

Does your mixer have the series of holes for the lift arm pins to go in for different lift heights? Ken Sweet

 

[lakeside]

I've mixed a lot of concrete and the "secrets" I use are keeping the concrete wet for as long as possible. Concrete doesn't dry, it sets. If the concrete dries before it chemicaly sets it will never get any harder even if you wet it down after. I've used burlap bags or, for flat surfaces, you can "pond" the surface so a layer of water stay on it. Concrete will continue to gain strenght over time but the first 28 days are when it gets its best strenght.

If I'm using bagged ciment I add a very small portion of, and don't laugh, Mr. Bubble. Pre-mixed concrete already has air entrainement agent mixed in but bagged ciment does not. Minute air bubbles in the concrete are very important if the concrete is subject to freeze/thaw cycles. Mr. Bubble also makes the concrete pour a lot easier as the concrete is much more fluid.

Use as little water as possible. The more water, the weaker the concrete.

Don't overwork the surface or the final product will have a fine layer of concrete dust which will always remain dusty. A dusty surface will also not accept paint as the paint can't adhere to a dusty surface. Lasty, and as was said before, work the concrete as little as possible from mixing to pouring.

 

[repete]

These replies on adding too much water remind me of a saying I heard a LONG time ago. If the concrete is too dry, try adding sweat.

 

[Larry Caldwell]

As for mix design, the strongest concrete will have a high Portland cement
ratio, a low slump, and large aggregate. Mixing my own, I have done lots of
0" slump mud with 1.5" aggregate (with rebar). Super-strong and no cracks.

I doubt many people here would have a test cone or know how to use one.

For general information, slump is measured with a 12" test cone. You fill the cone with concrete, rod it carefully, then lift the cone shaped form. How far the concrete slumps is the slump. No slump is known as a dry pack. It has enough water to hydrate the cement, and no more. You have to ram it into place, and where you put it it stays. The surface does not have a smooth finish, and looks like sand and gravel. It gets very hard.

Typical flatwork concrete will be delivered with a 4" to 6" slump. That's a compromise between strength and workability. If you stay on it, you can trowel a smooth slab with a 4" slump.

Workability can be improved by adding a pozzolan, like fine fly ash. It makes the concrete pastier without affecting the strength. If you want to try a smooth finish with a 2" slump, buy a bag of pozzolan from the mason supply house and add some to the mix. Air entraining will make concrete more workable too. I liked the Mr. Bubble suggestion, and will try that someday. Sugar will ****** the cure. You can spray vertical forms with sugar water, pour them full, then strip the forms off and do a trowel finish on a vertical surface. Calcium chloride will make concrete set faster. Aluminum powder will make concrete expand because the aluminum generates hydrogen bubbles. Don't use too much. One handful in a 9 yard concrete truck is plenty.

Do not let concrete freeze until it is fully cured or it will turn to punk. A light frost is usually not a problem, because concrete generates internal heat as it cures. A hard freeze will destroy it. Concrete in hot weather is also a bad idea, though you can ask the batch plant to batch with ice to slow the chemical reaction. The best day to pour concrete is 50 degrees and overcast, with a light drizzle that starts right after you finish.