Cab Build for Yanmar 240D

[Bennet.man]

I have begun my journey of building a cab for my Yanmar 240D. First off, I would like to thank everyone that has posted their builds for me to base mine off of. Second off, I would like to say, my tractor does not have ROPS, so this is a completely from scratch adventure and I am open to any/all feedback.
Step one was planning. After looking at the tractor, measuring, sketching, and beginning again at looking, several times, I decided that the first "forward-progress" step was to just use a little scrap lumber to build a proto-type.
The constrictions I have are:
-Heigth - I have to have an overall heigth of 6'7" or less to be able to fit in my garage during the winter months.
-Design - My biggest concern with the design is how to build the windshield around my 2 spool valve for the loader and yet have it seal somewhat tight.
- Second concern is with being able to "move" the windshield enough to open the hood as the hood will stretch into the cab approx. 10"
- I also need to have the cab high enough in the rear for the 3pt arms to clear when the 3pt is in the fully raised position.
So, this is where I'm at. I have constructed a "frame" for the cab out of scrap lumber that I had laying around, I have tested the clearances in both my garage and shed (also checking to see if I can get in and out of it without banging my head everytime), and I have taken rough measurements of the cab and drawn them up.

 

[Bennet.man]

Here's another picture of the framework:

 

[Bennet.man]

Here is a sketch of how I plan to build the cab. As you can see in the drawing, on the "Left View" there is additional bracing for the door pivot point. I do have this built with the wood, but I never got any pictures of it in place.

Also, here is a picture of the dilema with the hydraulic system. As you can see from the sketch, I plan to just leave that area open (no plexiglas) but maybe put some "broom bristles" to kind of seal it off??? Not sure what to do with it yet. Open to ideas. FYI, as of right now, I am planning to build the whole framework out of 1 1/2" square tubing.

This is all I have for now as I am still in the feasibility stages. I will keep posting as the job progresses. Please let me know if you have any suggestions, comments, or concerns.

 

[handirifle]

Since you mentioned no ROPS, why not make one with this build? Use 1 1/2" square tubing, still, but make the roll bar out of 1/4" thick tubing and the rest thin wall.

Make sure the rear ROPS section has a solid mount to the frame. It just might save your noodle some day.

Other than that keep going, I like the idea. Don't know if I need an enclosed cab, but I do need a canopy on mine for sure.

 

[handirifle]

OK after looking at the pics, I'd suggest NOT tying/bolting/welding/clamping or whatever it to the FEL. If you ever need to remove the FEL for whatever reason, you have no cab.

My MF1010, has threaded castings on the side of the tranny case, that will work perfect for mounting the front of a cab frame to it. Maybe yours has something similar? I would surely find a way to attach it to the "tractor" and not an accessory (FEL).

 

[kebo]

Is it possible/feasible to get some right angle fittings and install them on the loader valve so the hoses could out to the sides (horizontal) rather than point straight up like they are now? If you could do that, it should make it easier to seal it up around the valves. At least that's an idea to look at. If you can't do that, then maybe some type of custom made clear vinyl hood for part of the windshield that snaps in/out might be another solution. Looks like you're off to a good start though.

BTW, how did you wind up with a bars on the front, and turfs on the rear???? Odd combination there!

 

[Bennet.man]

Handirifle, the vertical part of the loader that the frame is "attached" to in the pictures, stays mounted on the tractor. If I were to drop the loader, those would stay on it (unless I needed to over-haul the engine or something major). I do understand what you mean though about not wanting to remove the cab though, but there really isn't a whole lot of mounting points other than there.
Kebo, I will definately be looking into the 90 deg fittings! Good thought! As for the tires, thats the way I bought it, and so far, I am loving it. I don't have to worry about tearing up the lawn (like with R1's), and yet with this past winter (snow on the ground for 4 months!) I never once got stuck with the R4's helping pull me around! I wish I could find R4's for the rear as well, but I can't find them in the right size. Its either ag's or turf's...

 

[Iplayfarmer]

What's wrong with what you have? Staple some clear plastic on the baby and away you go.

On a more serious note, if the 90's for the hydraulics are impractical, you could build a "port" that the hoses come through. A slit in the windshield that the hoses just barely fit through may work well. Be sure the line the inside with some type of gasket to prevent wear on the hoses.

I'd also suggest that you mount the rear of the cab on something other than the fenders. You may already have this planned, and I just haven't seen it.

 

[2manyrocks]

Take a look at how the ROPS fits on the 240: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/75272-roll-over-protective-structure-rollbar.html

The Yanmars use a mounting plate that bolts to the rear of the tractor around the PTO and then there's some kind of way it attaches to an assembly on top of the axle.

There's another thread in the Yanmar forum where a guy built a ROPS for his Yanmar-wasn't a 240, but generally same.

 

[handirifle]

Handirifle, the vertical part of the loader that the frame is "attached" to in the pictures, stays mounted on the tractor. If I were to drop the loader, those would stay on it (unless I needed to over-haul the engine or something major). I do understand what you mean though about not wanting to remove the cab though, but there really isn't a whole lot of mounting points other than there.

OK I see, then go for it.

 

[mjncad]

-Design - My biggest concern with the design is how to build the windshield around my 2 spool valve for the loader and yet have it seal somewhat tight.
- Second concern is with being able to "move" the windshield enough to open the hood as the hood will stretch into the cab approx. 10"
- I also need to have the cab high enough in the rear for the 3pt arms to clear when the 3pt is in the fully raised position.
So, this is where I'm at. I have constructed a "frame" for the cab out of scrap lumber that I had laying around, I have tested the clearances in both my garage and shed (also checking to see if I can get in and out of it without banging my head everytime), and I have taken rough measurements of the cab and drawn them up.

I have no idea what your budget is; but can you switch the loader valves out for a joystick type and mount it near the fender like Deere does? Surplus Center has these valves, and it could save you grief down the road building your cab.

Building a mock-up out of wood is a good idea before you cut and weld metal.

As for headroom; I see you caught yourself on camera in one of your pics, and I doubt that will be a problem.

I also agree with another poster about making a ROPS to integrate into your cab.

Keep us posted on your progress.

 

[mjncad]

I forgot to add; since you are using flat panels for the windows, I'd look into glass instead of Plexiglas as the plastic will scratch terribly.

 

[Bennet.man]

Its been a while since I've gotten a chance to work on it, but I have the major frame work done. I used 1 1/2" square tubing (it actually didn't cost as much as I thought it would). Later this week I plan to add the door on the left side and frame in the right side. Can't wait to test this baby out this winter!
I am having troubles uploading the photos that I have. I will try to get them posted later tonight.
And, MJNCad, the headspace comment was very funny! I am slightly taller though
Thanks again for all the words of wisdom!

 

[Bennet.man]

Couple pictures. I hope to get more tomorrow night.

 

[mrcaptainbob]

Do the hoses move much? Wondering about some sort of bellows.

 

[Bennet.man]

The hoses do move quite a bit. Although I think I have found a solution to it. I need to try a couple things and maybe snaps some pictures so I can show what I'm talking about.
Elbows are part of my scheme though

 

[jb62901]

Your going to like that cab this winter. I presume your in snow country?

 

[Bennet.man]

In the Midwest, but last year we had snow on the ground for 4 months straight. My signature picture is in my backyard around the end of January this year. The snow was drifted taller than my tractor!
I like the looks of your cab. What material did you use for the "glass"? Plexiglass? Lexan? Glass? Also, how about your roof, what's it made of? I haven't fully decided what to do for a roof yet, and I'm looking for opinions on different materials.

 

[jb62901]

BM The frame is aluminium angle, truck cap for sides and chevy al camino cap for a canopy. Canopy stays on all the time. I have posted the build on here and have pic under Kubota. Lexan for windows. Was great this last winter here in SW Mich.

 

[Bennet.man]

Well, its been a while since I've been on here (sorry), but I have the frame work for my cab all welded up, painted and put on! For the roof, I just used some 3/8" plywood seeings how it will be parked inside all year round. I did put two coats of thick white paint on the plywood to resist whatever moisture does make it on there. I still need to get some Lexan for the windows, but its an hour drive to where I'm going to buy it from so I'm dragging my feet! I found out that a supplier 60 miles away is $30 cheaper a sheet, so if I need 4 sheets its worth my time to save $120!
All in all, I think its turning out pretty good. I hope to get some action pics this winter to post for everyone to see! Thanks everyone for the great feedback!