Belarus 250AS Wiring Diagram

[WHW2821]

Does anyone have a copy of the wiring diagram for this tractor? I bought a manual that has every diagram but the one I need. I need to know which points on the 5 prong ignition switch to test for continuity to see if it is the cause of my problems.

 

[jesnic]

What problems are you having?

 

[WHW2821]

What problems are you having?

Well there are a few, but the main one is i want to be able to start it with the key and not jumper the solenoid. It may be loose or corroded connections but i took the dash off and reworked all the connections to make sure they made good contact. I took the floor out and notice there is a switch on the gear shift box. I assume this is so you can稚 start it in gear? What should this guy measure normally open or closed when in neutral? Are they any more fail safes that would prevent the key from starting the tractor?

 

[jesnic]

I had the same issue. I just added a 60 amp starter button. I wired it to the 12 volt positive coming off the key switch to energize the button coil and ran the wire to the starter. Works great. Give me your email address and I will email the schematics to you. The diagram shows routing, but not individual switch specs.

 

[jesnic]

Ok, I think I figured out how to attach the images.

 

[WHW2821]

Thanks if i find enough time I should be able to fix what i need with this information.

Is the fuse block under the hood next to the battery compartment? I have not checked it yet and that may be cause of my other problems.

 

[jesnic]

The fuse block is under the hood against the firewall. It has a cover that pulls off. All the fuses are wrap wire tipe. Most likely, you have some bad switches or a faulty starter relay. Even so, the parts are more expensive than a start button and some wire. I just went through all the switches and safeties and found it cheaper to add a start button than to replace the switches.

 

[kodiak88]

Hope this helps,i had a 526 belarus,and i went through the same thing .changed the preheater and messed with wires and racked my brains.i would preheat the engine then jump down and arc the solinoid with a screwdriver.finally an old dealer told me to take my starter apart and clean it.I disassembled it and cleaned all copper contacts inside,and i used anti-sieze on metal spiral shaft inside.if these starters are not used alot they tend to tarnish up inside.I used a dremel tool with the little drum sander on it.You can use regular grease,but i found out youll have to do it again alot sooner

 

[WHW2821]

So far I have:

- Pulled the dash and sanded every contact on the terminal strip.
- Pulled the floor and fixed the intermittent switch on the gear shifter.
- I tested the key switch with an ohmmeter and it passes continuity when you turn the key to start.
- I pulled the starter relay and took it apart it had some corrosion on the coil solder joint so I soldered it and tested it.
- I ohmed out the wire going to the solenoid from the relay.

A big rain storm blew up and shut me down yesterday before I could verify voltage from the key switch to the input of the starter relay. I am pretty sure that it is there but the relay will not work still. I think I have a bad ground from the coil of the relay to the alternator. I also did not verify voltage to the other side of the coil. It is possible that the alternator is screwed up because the shield that covers the electronics is missing and there is a lot of corrosion inside. There are only two connectors on it a larger green wire and a small wire that goes to the starter relay. I think it is the kind with the built in rectifier so I will take it off next and clean and solder all the joints and test the bridge rectifier etc.

Things that do not work:

- The horn, switch is good
- The lights
- The amp meter, I took it apart last night and it had tons of corrosion so I cleaned it up.
- Fuel gauge
- Warning light for alternator and fan belt breakage.

Things that do work:

- Tach
- Oil pressure gauge
- Temp gauge
- Glow plug light
- Every mechanical aspect of the tractor except the differential lock.

Questions for anyone out there:

- What is the plug socket under the dash next to the main ground switch?
- Has anyone used the extra hydraulic remote and does it control the two pipes that are capped off on the back of the tractor that are capped?
- The extra hydraulic line is leaking how do you repair this? Braze it? It rubbed together with the other line that it crosses and made a hole.

 

[jesnic]

I don't know about a "socket" near the ground switch. Take a pic. The remote hydraulics are controlled by the right most lever and are for operating single or double acting remote cylinders. The lever has four positions, raise, neutral, lower and float. You will not need these unless you have a log splitter, FEL, or anything else that requires hydraulics not operated with the three point. For patching the hole, just slide a piece of hydraulic hose over the pipe and use hose clamps to tigthen on either end.

 

[WHW2821]

I figured out why it would not start with the key switch! The bridge rectifier on the alternator was gone so voltage was passing thru the suposed ground terminal on the alternator. I had voltage on both sides of the coil so it would not energize to switch the starter on. I replaced it with an AC delco alternator with built in regulator. Thanks again for the wiring diagrams!

 

[jesnic]

No problem. Glad you got it running. Did that cure the other problems as well?

 

[WHW2821]

No problem. Glad you got it running. Did that cure the other problems as well?

Jesnic,

Yes it sure did. I can now start it with the key, and everything else work except the horn.

Thanks,

 

[Lapeer34]

I don't know about a "socket" near the ground switch. Take a pic. The remote hydraulics are controlled by the right most lever and are for operating single or double acting remote cylinders. The lever has four positions, raise, neutral, lower and float. You will not need these unless you have a log splitter, FEL, or anything else that requires hydraulics not operated with the three point. For patching the hole, just slide a piece of hydraulic hose over the pipe and use hose clamps to tigthen on either end.

Jesnic, On my Belarus 250as, the 3pt hydraulics were not lifting. I called the 800 number for Belarus. They suggested I blow out the valve by the Hydraulic levers, the one on top under the 2 bolts. Still would not lift. I then removed the pressure relief valve underneath and blow out the top valve and the lower valve. Cleaned everything and reassembled both valves and the hydraulics are now lifting. But I was told that I need to reset the pressure to 2250psi. I have never used the remote hydraulics. Belarus Mechanic said to used the remote if I have one. It does have a remote. And had a local shop make up an adaptor for the pressure gauge. With the tractor running, when I operate the remote hydraulic lever. The pressure valve does not show any pressure. Is there a switch somewhere to operate the remote? Or is there some other place I should put the gauge? I set the lower bolt of the lower valve at the same length it was at initially. What can happen if the pressure was not at 2250psi? If it's set to high or to low?

 

[jesnic]

Yeah, there is a football shaped relief valve under the plate at the base of the lift lever. Remove it and make sure you remove the spring under the valve. Start the tractor and slowly raise the 3 pt lever until fluid comes out. Shut off tractor, reinstall relief valve and all will be well. Just trash inside of relief valve. You probably need to remove and clean the hydraulic screen under the seat. As for remote hydros, what are you running remotely, a loader, hydraulic top link?

 

[jesnic]

The pressure should be set at 2288 psi. t was set from the factory. That is where the relief pops. There are spring tensioners in the valve, accesible from the bottom of the valve. Remove the bolts and there are screws that will adjust the spring tension on the poppets in the valve. Chances are you do not need to reset any pressures. The 3 pt lift is rated at 3000 lbs. I do not believe there are any attachments made that would need that much lift capacity to operate. The hydraulic pump is not adjustable. It is either engaged or not. Do not disengage or engage the pump with the tractor running-damage to the pump will occur.

 

[Lapeer34]

Thanks for the reply. I tried the steps you mentioned in your first reply and the 3-pt still did not lift. Initially I cleaned the hydraulic filter under the seat and replaced the hydraulic fluid. The Belarus mechanics said if blowing out the top valve does not correct the issue, then I should remove the lower valve and clean it also. But, I would need to set the pressure after I messed with that valve. To check the pressure they suggested I use the remote, which is capped. This is where I was getting zero pressure when operating the remote level (to the right of the 3-pt lever). I have never used the remote hydraulics. I did see in the operator痴 manual about the disengaging and engaging of the hydraulic pump.

When I had both valves out of the tractor, I blow out both the top and the bottom valves with an air hose. Looking up inside the lower valve I could see a square nut with a hole in it. I could not get that out. So, I didn稚 tamper with it. I just cleaned and reassembled the lower valve and reinstalled it to the same dimension that was factory set. After reassembling both valves the hydraulic is now lifting. Setting the pressure is my dilemma.

 

[jesnic]

If the 3 pt is operational, as in it will raise with weight on it, then you probably are good. If you have enough pressure to lift it, then you have pressure at the aux. port. When you drained the oil, air probably got in the system and will need to work itself out. Work the 3 pt up and down until it is emmediately responsive. Then add weight to the 3 pt and make it lifts. It will always drop-Newton proved this. The hydraulics are a loop system and air will purge itself when working. Once you have the lift working under load, shut off tractor and release the pressure by lowering the 3 pt. This will allow the hyd. fluid to flow past through the valve into the reservoir. Then you can uncap the aux. hyd. line and install a pressure gauge. One line is a return to tank (no pressure), the other is the pressure line. Make sure the gauge can handle min. 3000 psi.

 

[Lapeer34]

Thanks, your help is much appreciated. I used the 3-pt yesterday, it was working very smooth, with immediate response. I will go through the steps you suggested tonight. Following the hydraulic lines, I see 2 lines below the remote lever. One goes to the reservoir, the other is capped. I put the gauge on the capped line. I still am not getting any pressure on the gauge ( which measures 0-5000psi), I tried the lever in up and down positions. Does this mean I need to adjust the valve bolt in or out? -Bill

 

[drschumm]

I replaced my ignition switch at the suggestion of a Belarus dealer who said they are known to go out. I replaced it and seemed to fix the problem for a couple of years. Then had the same symptons so I ordered another switch but it had 4 post instead of 5 posts. I got another switch 5 post switch but I can't figure out which wire goes to which post (6 wires 5 posts). It will start with a screwdriver but I hate having to do that. I have read the other posts and will follow what you guys did to really fix the problem which I believe now was a bad ground. Any help would be greatly appreciated.