Just ordered my first attachment......

[Famah]

Drum roll please.....

A Gator/Markham tooth bar! I have a lot of small growing trees, large fallen trees, rocks, and general debris to get rid of so I can push the boundaries of my woods back and make some trails. From what I read on the Forum, it is a very useful addition and makes a FEL much more effective when playing in the dirt and woods.

A good friend is going to let me borrow his rotary cutter and box rake, so the tooth bar seemed like a good idea.

If you don't mind sharing some stories, how have you folks used your tooth bars? Where do they shine, above just a regular bucket?

Nick

 

[bullbreaker]

:thumbsup:Congrats, heres a couple pics of my original MKHM toothbar.(some taken from far away) 2007 L3400DT Bota
Boone

 

[missourithunder]

Famah,
You're gonna love the toothbar. It took me some practice but I finally got the hang of it as to moving earth. You want to scrape the surface a little at a time. It went from shiny black to shiny silver really really fast : )

MT

 

[Famah]

MT:

I don't know how I missed hearing about Kubota's special and limited-time MOUNTAIN THUNDER edition tractor/loader package! Those are fantastic graphics. Nicely done.

Nick

 

[Famah]

OOPS! I MEANT MISSOURI!

 

[NSBound]

The digging in the dirt part is pretty straightforward. I've found it's useful for picking up logs. A grapple may be better, but a grapple I don't got .

 

[RoyJackson]

you dive into a pile of dried, clumpy dirt with just a bucket....frankly, you probably won't get too far.
A tooth bar digs right in. Those teeth can break up the dried "hard" shell of the pile.
However, you'll still want rear ballast of some sort to provide adequate traction

 

[missourithunder]

Famah,
Roy's is absolutely right about the counter weight. Make sure you have something on the rear before you start diggin. Appreciate the kind words in regards to the graphics, click on the link below for the history.

MT

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ssourithunder-takes-message-boards-storm.html

 

[ninefinger]

When you drill the holes for the side bracket, drill to the foward end of the slot. This way you can just loosen the bolts, pull the toothbar foward and fold it back in the bucket without having to take it off. Have not needed to do this but I do have the option

 

[Famah]

MT:

That is quite a history. It is pretty cool that you have it preserved, for posterity. Kind of like a diary that you can look back on and others can learn from. Very nice.

That being said, I WILL NOT be trying to remove my FEL out of boredom. I will only do so when and if I have to. Secondly, the next time I come across a stranded locomotive, I will generously offer my assistance. Lastly, I feel even better about my tooth bar purchase after reading how other Forum members encouraged you on the subject.

9Finger:

I think I understand your suggestion, and it is a fantastic idea. It would be great to make the bar retractable, rather than on-and-off. I will need to have the bar in front of me to be able to visualize exactly what you are talking about.

There is a thread that made me a little nervous about the bucket measurement I provided to Markham: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/1147348-post20.html

I came up with 64 1/2 " from inside to inside, 8" back from cutting blade. This is for a standard LA463 loader with standard "60 inch" bucket. That was the first thing that threw me. My manual refers to my bucket as a "square 60 inch." But I measured the inside dimensions three times and came up with 64 1/2 ".

Can anyone chime in with their experience? I would think this dimension would be completely standardized. But Markham was adamant about having me measure. Have other people with this FEL package come up with 64 1/2?

As always, thank you for your thoughts.

Nick

 

[ShenandoahJoe]

Far be it from me to tell a New Hampshireman about winter, but I found it very useful to pull the toothbar off my bucket the first time the weatherman said "snow". The teeth didn't go back on until springtime.

 

[ninefinger]

Far be it from me to tell a New Hampshireman about winter, but I found it very useful to pull the toothbar off my bucket the first time the weatherman said "snow". The teeth didn't go back on until springtime.

Did not notice the geo location, we do not have that much snow to deal with here in Georgia.
Famah, search "my turn to share attachments" in attachments. Very informative and step by step install by 3RRL I thought that was the thread that lead me to mounting mine to be able to fold it , would like to give credit where it is due. However, my mountig brackets had slots, 3RRL had a single hole.

 

[veresjwv]

Drum roll please.....

A Gator/Markham tooth bar! I have a lot of small growing trees, large fallen trees, rocks, and general debris to get rid of so I can push the boundaries of my woods back and make some trails. From what I read on the Forum, it is a very useful addition and makes a FEL much more effective when playing in the dirt and woods.

A good friend is going to let me borrow his rotary cutter and box rake, so the tooth bar seemed like a good idea.

If you don't mind sharing some stories, how have you folks used your tooth bars? Where do they shine, above just a regular bucket?

Nick

Famah, I have a 2009 L3400 and have done a lot of work with the loader. Just last week I installed the Markham/Gator Toothbar. All I can say is there has been this one tree in my way around my compost piles for almost two years now. Not any more! All I did was use the toothbar to cut the roots in front and gave her a push..... Gone!

 

[RoyJackson]

MT:
I came up with 64 1/2 " from inside to inside, 8" back from cutting blade. This is for a standard LA463 loader with standard "60 inch" bucket. That was the first thing that threw me. My manual refers to my bucket as a "square 60 inch." But I measured the inside dimensions three times and came up with 64 1/2 ".

Can anyone chime in with their experience? I would think this dimension would be completely standardized. But Markham was adamant about having me measure. Have other people with this FEL package come up with 64 1/2?

As always, thank you for your thoughts.

Nick

Measure the width of the bucket at the front...not 8" back. Not much good if the tooth bar won't go on the bucket, is it? Measure by holding (or having a helper to hold) the tab at the end of a tape measurer to one (inside) end of the bucket, then go to the other (inside surface). Remember that old saying "measure twice, cut once".
If you do not have a helper, measure outside to outside, then subtract the bucket's side plate thickness twice (accounting for both ends).
Then subtract .5".
That's the tooth bar length you want. It'll be easy to install and remove. You can use washers to fill in that .25" clearance on both sides.

Some, but not all, tooth bars are slotted on the two end mounting brackets. If your Markham is slotted, once you install it (before drilling) mark at the end(s) of the slot nearest the front of the bucket.
By doing that, you can loosen the mounting bolts, pull the tooth bar so the bolts are at the aft end of the slot and rotate it up (then tighten the bolts). By doing this, your bucket cutting edge is exposed for back filling or similar work. I'd take some pics, but I'd have to go into the garage, start the tractor, raise the bucket and loosen the tooth bar...too lazy to do that right now (long day at work). But I think you can visualize what I described.

Remember...measure twice, cut once...it's not that difficult.

 

[Famah]

Dear Roy:

Oh Ohhh. I measured 8" back pursuant to Markham instructions. What you say makes perfect sense. I measured at the front and came up with 1/2" less. The bucket is brand new, so it is straight as an arrow. The difference comes from the welds, which are at the front. If I measure at the front, but above the welds, it is the same as 8" back. How flush does the bar sit to the bottom of the bucket? Can the tooth bar sit on top of the welds at the very front, or must it clear the welds?

I have not received notification that it has shipped yet, so I still may have time to change if I need to. I suspect I had better let them know right away. If it is too late, I suppose I can get a grinder and take the welds down a tad. It seemed so simple when I placed the order....

Thank you for your input.

Nick

P.S.

SJoe:

You had better believe it is coming off (or hopefully retracting) upon the first forecast of snow. We routinely get BURIED up here, especially in the part of NH were we live. In fact, based purely on hours, I predict I will be using my new baby more to move snow than anything else.

N

Measure the width of the bucket at the front...not 8" back. Not much good if the tooth bar won't go on the bucket, is it? Measure by holding (or having a helper to hold) the tab at the end of a tape measurer to one (inside) end of the bucket, then go to the other (inside surface). Remember that old saying "measure twice, cut once".
If you do not have a helper, measure outside to outside, then subtract the bucket's side plate thickness twice (accounting for both ends).
Then subtract .5".
That's the tooth bar length you want. It'll be easy to install and remove. You can use washers to fill in that .25" clearance on both sides.

Some, but not all, tooth bars are slotted on the two end mounting brackets. If your Markham is slotted, once you install it (before drilling) mark at the end(s) of the slot nearest the front of the bucket.
By doing that, you can loosen the mounting bolts, pull the tooth bar so the bolts are at the aft end of the slot and rotate it up (then tighten the bolts). By doing this, your bucket cutting edge is exposed for back filling or similar work. I'd take some pics, but I'd have to go into the garage, start the tractor, raise the bucket and loosen the tooth bar...too lazy to do that right now (long day at work). But I think you can visualize what I described.

Remember...measure twice, cut once...it's not that difficult.

 

[Famah]

9:

That was an awesome thread. Thank you. 3RRL really knows how to do it right. I am embarrassed to say how thin my tool supply is and I have never welded, so I have the feeling that my installation will be much more humble. Or I will have to hire it out. At least I now know what I am dealing with.

Nick

Did not notice the geo location, we do not have that much snow to deal with here in Georgia.
Famah, search "my turn to share attachments" in attachments. Very informative and step by step install by 3RRL I thought that was the thread that lead me to mounting mine to be able to fold it , would like to give credit where it is due. However, my mountig brackets had slots, 3RRL had a single hole.

 

[RoyJackson]

9:

That was an awesome thread. Thank you. 3RRL really knows how to do it right. I am embarrassed to say how thin my tool supply is and I have never welded, so I have the feeling that my installation will be much more humble. Or I will have to hire it out. At least I now know what I am dealing with.

Nick

You may have to grind the tooth bar a bit for clearance. You'll know when you first try installing.
For mounting, you'll probably want a half HP drill (not a battery powered one...you're drilling through some stout material that's around 1/8th inch thick). I suggest you locate where you'll need to drill (use the tooth bar as your template), centerpunch the location and pilot drill (use a 1/8th bit). Since I had to use 3/4 inch bolts, I bought a stepped drill with a 1/2 inch shank.

 

[Famah]

It was waiting for me when I got home from work today. What a nice, rugged unit. No installation instructions or hints. Just the bar. Thank goodness I have 3RRL's post, thanks to 9finger. Now off to find a welder...

Nick

 

[ninefinger]

Be sure to post pics. As for 3RRL, along with quite a few others, when I see him post I will read what he has to say. Awful lot of first class people here.

 

[om21braz]

I might have to get a toothbar myself, sounds pretty useful.