BX1850 engine trouble

[funwithahoe]

I do also have an oil analysis report, if there's any values anybody's curious about, they did flag tin and aluminum as high, and silicon was a little elevated.

If you figure you're into a new engine anyways, Why not stick it back together and see how long it runs? I have seen these things run forever even messed up! Only symptom was a little low oil pressure? Were there really that many metal shards and isn't there suppose to be some fore and aft play in the shaft when you have it torn off like that? Don't think you would ruin anything else by running it.

 

[KubieTwo]

That is very strange. I have not treated my BX1500 engine as good as youve yours and its running strong at 1470+ hrs. The engine has been used at full load for hrs on end mowing and snow throwing. It doesnt sound like your engine was ever right to go bad that way. Are you speaking of endplay in the crank being 1/8"?
larry

Spyder, what weight and brand motor oil are you running?

I am not saying his engine was killed by his choice of oil but I also don't know of anybody with a fleet of diesel trucks, compressors, generators and tractors that runs Amsoil either. They also don't use 5w-30 all year and bad bearings on low hour engines is unheard of under normal conditions. I can understand the thinner oils for extreme winter conditions but I would never run it with temperatures over about 40 degrees. Most fleets I know use either 15w-40 Shell Rotella or 15w-40 Chevron Delo in all their diesel equipment. Maybe they are all wrong, but if I were going to use anything but Kubota motor oil in my tractors, it would be one of these. Just my opinion.

 

[taborekle]

Don't know engines really well, but I've always heard that lugging a engine was bad on the bearings. Since this is a hydro model, is it possible that the OP ran the tractor at low engine rpms and used the go pedal to find a transmission range that worked? Or that the snow blower could be implemented with the engine running low rpms?

 

[drag_slick]

The manual states 10w-30 or 10w-40. The reason for the 5w-30 is up here in the winter we regularly get periods of -20 F temps, and the tractor sits in unheated storage.

As far as my snowblowing habits, it's low range on the HST with the throttle at ~3100rpm. Ground speed depends on how deep the drift is, I creep along so the engine isn't lugged down. I've never tried it, but I would imagine that the blower would be pretty useless at low rpms.

 

[KubieTwo]

No question the thinner oil is required for the low temps. My concern has always been with 5w-30 at higher temperatures. My tractors are not stored outside so cold startup is not a problem, nor do we get any -20 degree temps. As a result, I stay with 15w-40 year round. If I had -20 temps I might run 10w-30 in winter then change back in early spring. No scientific reason, just personal opinion.

 

[oldnslo]

If it is determined to be an oil issue doesn't Amsoil have some form of guaranty ? Seems to like I have read or heard of this as one of their selling points.

Good luck

Roy

 

[leonz]

I do also have an oil analysis report, if there's any values anybody's curious about, they did flag tin and aluminum as high, and silicon was a little elevated.

The high tin, aluminum and silicon levels are the red flag for your engine and the resulting wear and its failure do to excess wear and heat I can tell you more if you post it or send to me- lots of tin and aluminum indicates high heat in the crancase sump literally melting the soft metals used in the bearing caps, crank bearings inner races. I would be curious to see what the flywheel pulley bearing looks like if there is anything left of it to examine but if you can move the crank both bearings are gone.


i would strongly recommend you purchase a salamander to heat it up the during the nine cold months and use the recommended oil only because of the cold temperatures and your heavy duty cycles especially when using the snow blower.

I have used my salamander for 17 plus years and have been very hapy in using it to warm up my machinery as it is is easier to start everything and its is fully warmed up before I even turn the key or pull a starter rope.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Spyder, what weight and brand motor oil are you running?

I use rotella 5w-40. In N Dakota even at 5W-30 I cant see to blame his oil, esp with the life of non lugging pretty much inherent wth HST drive. I think his crank had endplay from the beginning, and it has taken its toll on the rod bearings & pistons.
larry

 

[leonz]

The manual states 10w-30 or 10w-40. The reason for the 5w-30 is up here in the winter we regularly get periods of -20 F temps, and the tractor sits in unheated storage.

As far as my snowblowing habits, it's low range on the HST with the throttle at ~3100rpm. Ground speed depends on how deep the drift is, I creep along so the engine isn't lugged down. I've never tried it, but I would imagine that the blower would be pretty useless at low rpms.

Yup they are as all they do is spit it 2 feet

 

[oldnslo]

Dumb question from an old fart.

In my younger days before the multiple viscosity oils became popular or even existed we ran straight 10 weight in the winter and 30 weight in the summer. So how is running a 5w-30 worse? To my feeble knowledge and understanding the "benefit" of using multigrade oils is that they give better cold weather starts and then as the oil/engine warms up it gets thicker for better lube.

1st suspicion would be an incorrectly adjusted oil pump relief or piece or debris blocking this valve open
2nd I would suspect a loose or cracked oil pump pickup tube or possibly partially clogged. Have these been know to break or crack from engine vibration?
3rd Incorrectly installed or missing construction port plug in one of the oil galleys causing loss of flow.
4th Bad assembly from day one

Roy